LnL Powder drop question

[Redemption]

Made some adjustments to the drop, so that when I throw the handle the case activation makes it to the top of its arm throw without warping the case (was kind of hard to get it there.

Now its metering thusly

4.3
4.4
4.5
4.4
4.4

[Don the savage]

Ive been using the 700x for a long time on 45acp and I am happy with how it shoots, not happy with how it is metering out of my case activated drop though.



I agree 10% is unacceptable by a long lony ways. I hear 700x and 800x works well with the Lee auto disk drop but I have so much equipment at this point that I am more likely to dump the powder in leu of something a little finer, that seems to make sense to me.

Another thing im wondering is that my drop isnt adjusted so that the handle goes all the way to the top of the stroke, could that be a big part of the problem you think?

700x is a great powder that meters like crap. I used to use it for 9 and 45, but had to change to win231/hp38 which meters great and burns well.

[Mike0904]

I remember getting drops like this to its the 6-10th drop that would be bad
YMMV
Keep a close eye on it is all I would say.

[Redemption]

700x is a great powder that meters like crap. I used to use it for 9 and 45, but had to change to win231/hp38 which meters great and burns well.

what would you suggest for .40S&W to replace the 700x for a case activated powder drop on an LnL AP?

I remember getting drops like this to its the 6-10th drop that would be bad
YMMV
Keep a close eye on it is all I would say.

pretty much im just going to weigh every shell before and after powder until I get something else or until I run out of 700x

[Mike0904]

I think you will run into a problem no matter which pistol, shotgun powder you use in the LnL dropper... so live and learn I guess. keep a close eye on your powder levels is all ya need to do. I set a powder cop die to just move when I have the right amount in the case...if it doesn't move I stop and check or if it moves more than it should I check. All the pistol powders mostly work better in a slider type powder drop, its just the way it is. I thought Win 231 would be nice in the LnL but I used what I use for pistols...the LEE just because its what I do...

[Don the savage]

what would you suggest for .40S&W to replace the 700x for a case activated powder drop on an LnL AP?



pretty much im just going to weigh every shell before and after powder until I get something else or until I run out of 700x

I use win231/hp38 for all 3. Power pistol is also a good powder i use for 10 mm and 357sig.

[Don the savage]

I think you will run into a problem no matter which pistol, shotgun powder you use in the LnL dropper... so live and learn I guess. keep a close eye on your powder levels is all ya need to do. I set a powder cop die to just move when I have the right amount in the case...if it doesn't move I stop and check or if it moves more than it should I check. All the pistol powders mostly work better in a slider type powder drop, its just the way it is. I thought Win 231 would be nice in the LnL but I used what I use for pistols...the LEE just because its what I do...

I tend to agree. I use my lnl for rifle only and have lee with the micrometer adjuster (replaces the disks) on my pistol presses

[stilly]

So let me ask you this. Because I LOVE ME some 700-X in .45 ACP and other calibers.

Is that the RIFLE or the PISTOL rotor/ drum you are using?

In order to get a more consistent drop I had to attach a vibrator to my rifle drum.

However, running with a pistol setup, the variance is MUCH smaller. So, sadly if you have purchased the LNL dropper and you did NOT buy a pistol setup, now is a good time to do so. On the other hand, if you did NOT buy your setup with the Pistol rotor, then now might be a good time to sell your LNL dropper and buy the RCBS Uniflow QC with a pistol tube. On the LNL dropper, the pistol and rifle tubes need different rotors. On the QC uniflow there is only ONE drum and it uses both rifle and pistol tubes without the need to replace a $3.00 o-ring or change drums for $37 more.

On case activated stuff I found that if you do NOT have that knurled bolt tightened, it will slack off and not allow the drop tube to go all of the way up, thus potentially leaving a little bit of powder in the tube. I found that checking it and tightening it every now and then will save you some headache. And YES, it DOES get loose. When it gets loose enough it allows the top portion to twist and then instead of straight up and down, the lever is moving up at an angle, that is why the tube does not go to the top like it did before.

Hope this helps.

I had issues with 800X, but 700X was MUCH more well behaved.

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=799522&highlight=800x

[wbunning]

I tend to agree. I use my lnl for rifle only and have lee with the micrometer adjuster (replaces the disks) on my pistol presses

Agree. I converted my Hornady dropper to a stand-alone, but my RCBS Uniflow still works better in that capacity. The Lee Auto-Disk with the micrometer, followed by the RCBS lockout die is the most reliable set up I've ever used.

There are issues with all of them. I had to polish the expander plugs on the Lee PTX dies before the cases would go in and out smoothly. Guys using the newer Lee Auto-DRUM report some issues as well.

[wbunning]

On the other hand, if you did NOT buy your setup with the Pistol rotor, then now might be a good time to sell your LNL dropper and buy the RCBS Uniflow QC with a pistol tube. On the LNL dropper, the pistol and rifle tubes need different rotors. On the QC uniflow there is only ONE drum and it uses both rifle and pistol tubes without the need to replace a $3.00 o-ring or change drums for $37 more.

I would agree that picking up the additional rotor for the LNL would amount to throwing good money after bad. Good time to pick up a better option, whether it be the Lee or RCBS. I think that part of the reason the Lee works better for me is that it's mechanism is stupid-simple, lacking all the linkages.

[stilly]

I would agree that picking up the additional rotor for the LNL would amount to throwing good money after bad. Good time to pick up a better option, whether it be the Lee or RCBS. I think that part of the reason the Lee works better for me is that it's mechanism is stupid-simple, lacking all the linkages.

I forgot to mention that the LNL dropper and the uniflow are ALSO interchangeable with the same case activated linkage. There are possibly OTHER drums out there that are also adaptable just as easily but I have not conducted that research yet. I was able to put a UNIFLOW onto the linkage though and all it needed to do was reverse the drum so the screws were in the same spot. But damn what a PITA that was, unscrew the tube, push the bolt out through the top, remove the handle, reverse the drum and reassemble...

[Redemption]

I use win231/hp38 for all 3. Power pistol is also a good powder i use for 10 mm and 357sig.

Rgr that thank you

So let me ask you this. Because I LOVE ME some 700-X in .45 ACP and other calibers.

Is that the RIFLE or the PISTOL rotor/ drum you are using?

In order to get a more consistent drop I had to attach a vibrator to my rifle drum.

However, running with a pistol setup, the variance is MUCH smaller. So, sadly if you have purchased the LNL dropper and you did NOT buy a pistol setup, now is a good time to do so. On the other hand, if you did NOT buy your setup with the Pistol rotor, then now might be a good time to sell your LNL dropper and buy the RCBS Uniflow QC with a pistol tube. On the LNL dropper, the pistol and rifle tubes need different rotors. On the QC uniflow there is only ONE drum and it uses both rifle and pistol tubes without the need to replace a $3.00 o-ring or change drums for $37 more.

On case activated stuff I found that if you do NOT have that knurled bolt tightened, it will slack off and not allow the drop tube to go all of the way up, thus potentially leaving a little bit of powder in the tube. I found that checking it and tightening it every now and then will save you some headache. And YES, it DOES get loose. When it gets loose enough it allows the top portion to twist and then instead of straight up and down, the lever is moving up at an angle, that is why the tube does not go to the top like it did before.

Hope this helps.

I had issues with 800X, but 700X was MUCH more well behaved.
http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/s...highlight=800x

****.....leave it to stilly....I hadn't even thought about that. I bought the AP new and it came with two rotors....I'd just assumed it was a duplicate part that Hornady gave me because powder drops tend to fail and I just used the one that was already installed in it....how do I know which is which?

I also like 700x I think you were the one who recommended it to me when I was a newbie reloader. I normally use it for 45acp too but I'm shooting more 40 these days.

[9mmepiphany]

....how do I know which is which?

It is really easy to tell. Removed the metering insert. The larger plunger is the rifle one, the smaller is the pistol. The cavity for the powder is much smaller in the pistol drum as well.

Both are included with the press to allow loading either rifle or handgun. If you'd bought it as a standalone unit, it would come with only the rifle drum

what would you suggest for .40S&W to replace the 700x for a case activated powder drop on an LnL AP?

I've had very good luck with WSF, Clays, 231/HP-38, and BE-86 through the LNL powder measure.

Using WST for 9mm or Clays for .38Spl, I've had no problem holding variances in powder drop to within .05grs

[GUNNTZ]

Not only is there two rotors, but two adjusters for powder. Try using the pistol rotor and small adjuster; you'll should be fine. I've used 700x and 800x without issue on my LnL dropper. Periodically, your might have to clean the rotor as flake loves to chop and jam in between the rotor/wall.

[Redemption]

It is really easy to tell. Removed the metering insert. The larger plunger is the rifle one, the smaller is the pistol. The cavity for the powder is much smaller in the pistol drum as well.

Both are included with the press to allow loading either rifle or handgun. If you'd bought it as a standalone unit, it would come with only the rifle drum


I've had very good luck with WSF, Clays, 231/HP-38, and BE-86 through the LNL powder measure.

Using WST for 9mm or Clays for .38Spl, I've had no problem holding variances in powder drop to within .05grs

LOL I was CLEARLY using the rifle drum, no wonder I was metering like ****... the rifle one is like the size of a nickle while the pistol one is like the size of a pencil eraser. I never even looked in there, that part of the powder drop was already assembled when I bought the press, it never even occured to me that there were two different types.

Thank you very much.

Not only is there two rotors, but two adjusters for powder. Try using the pistol rotor and small adjuster; you'll should be fine. I've used 700x and 800x without issue on my LnL dropper. Periodically, your might have to clean the rotor as flake loves to chop and jam in between the rotor/wall.

by adjuster do you mean you mean the part that locks into the drum, the lever that comes up on the drum when the powder drop is activated?

I dont think the rifle one would fit right?