Randall's "match ammo is too expensive" list.

[Hans Gruber]

Range report here:

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?p=2274728

Here's a preview:

[ar15barrels]

if that's 100yds, you need to correct 1/4 minute up and 1/4 minute left.

[Hans Gruber]

if that's 100yds, you need to correct 1/4 minute up and 1/4 minute left.

I was shooting for groups man!

I guess that this proves that going from 0 to making match ammo isn't that far. Bells and whistles are nice and all, but you can get there very easily if you take your time and listen to good advice.

[ar15barrels]

I was shooting for groups man!

When you shoot for groups, adjust the point of impact away from your aiming point so the group does not obliterate the aiming point.
Just remember to adjust the scope back to it's zero for when you want to hit what you aim at.

[Hans Gruber]

Quick question about the Redding resizing die. Should I have my die adjusted (screwed down) to have the bushing hit the whole neck or halfway down or ? What would you suggest? I'd like to not wear out my brass prematurely.

My first batch I resized (pretty much) the whole neck but I just want to know what the experts have to say.

[ar15barrels]

Quick question about the Redding resizing die. Should I have my die adjusted (screwed down) to have the bushing hit the whole neck or halfway down or ? What would you suggest?

The die body adjusts separately from the neck bushing.
Adjust the die body for about 0.002" headspace.

I adjust the neck bushing to hit about 2/3 to 3/4 of the neck length.
This leaves a small donut un-sized at the shoulder/neck junction.
This un-sized donut will center the loaded round in the chamber, promoting better alignment of the bullet with the throat.

[Timberwolf]

Quick question about the Redding resizing die. Should I have my die adjusted (screwed down) to have the bushing hit the whole neck or halfway down or ? What would you suggest? I'd like to not wear out my brass prematurely.

My first batch I resized (pretty much) the whole neck but I just want to know what the experts have to say.

It depends on what that rifle/load combination likes. There is no right or wrong answer. Try adjusting the bushing up first to 3/4 of the neck the 1/2 and see how accuracy and your ES/SD are effected.

Also if you only size part of the neck I recommend you fully size your neck every 3rd or 4th loading to keep from developing a donut.

[Hans Gruber]

Cool, thanks guys. I'll pull out my 10 pieces of odd brass to test out different settings to see what I get.

[Hans Gruber]

A couple of notes after my attempts and prepping .223 cases last night for those of you thinking about jumping in using the "budget" list that Randall posted.

1. The Lee trimmer is probably a tremendous waste of time. I couldn't get it to quite work right and it didn't trim very precisely. Get yourself a better trimmer. I got a Forster that worked great on .308 but am missing a pilot for .223 at the moment.

2. The deburr/chamfer tool that comes with the Lee press set doesn't like to work too well with .223. Maybe it's just that I was mangling the case mouths with the Lee trimmer beyond repair, but it just didn't work very well at all.

I have to admit, I'm already considering one of those RCBS motorized case prep stations...

[Timberwolf]

Get the RCBS prep station - its a plug and play and is great. I've had one on my bench for more years that I care to remember. There are numerous tricks of the trade. But the one main thing I suggest is the RCBS starter set, add a digital scale, the Lyman trimmers that use a drill and go from there.

[workinwifdakids]

Randall, this is in all honesty one of the best threads I've ever read. Your statement about low-volume reloading for match-grade ammo with bolt actions was clear, and your two categories (gooder and cheaper) makes it really easy to understand.

I've never thought I had the money, time, or skill to get into reloading, but your post really has me thinking now! Thanks again!

[Hans Gruber]

I've never thought I had the money, time, or skill to get into reloading, but your post really has me thinking now! Thanks again!

I was in the exact same boat but I finally came to the following conclusion:

"If you love to shoot and you own an accurate rifle, it's the only way to go."

That is of course unless you're independently wealthy and don't mind paying $1.85 a round for the "good stuff" that's not even as good as what you can make for $0.45 a round.

[Butthead]

Randall - Any issues with running "match" rounds through an AR-10? I will be reloading for my Tikka as well but I wont be shooting it as much as the AR-10. What about using my Lee .50 press or do I really need another press on my workbench. How about annealing. I did not see it mentioned here.

[ar15barrels]

Randall - Any issues with running "match" rounds through an AR-10? I will be reloading for my Tikka as well but I wont be shooting it as much as the AR-10. What about using my Lee .50 press or do I really need another press on my workbench. How about annealing. I did not see it mentioned here.

Loading for a semi-auto is differnt than loading for a bolt gun.
You need to be more aware of sizing the brass enough that it will reliably chamber with only the force the bolt carrier has to offer.
With a manually operated bolt, you have a lot more camming power to make a long round fit.

I would not partially neck size for a semi auto.
I want more bullet pull to combat bullet setback during feeding.
I would want plastic tipped of FMJ bullets to combat bullet tip damage during feeding.

Your Lee 50 press will work fine for loading 308.
It should have come with the proper 7/8-14 reducer bushing.

Annealing is not necessary for many firings.

[Dog959]

What is the availability of a 18" or 19" SPR barrel w/ bolt in 6.5 Grendel?