Lee classic turret not setting primer deep

[boyguan]

I just setup my lee classic turret. The primers on both of my spp and srp sit flush. I can't even tell if it's below. On one of my 223 it is noticably lower but with others it's flush

All my 9mm loads are flush and not below.

I remember on my friends that I tried last week it was lower.

I have tried measuring with a caliper and it shows 0. On the one that is noticeable it is .007

[EMR]

Other than how hard you push, there isn't a whole lot of adjusting for primer seating depth. Are you cleaning out your primer pockets?

[boyguan]

Wet tumble with Ss pins. As clean as can be

I'll check on my friends but I think his is below flush. Since the tolerance is so tight even the ram could cause it to be a tad out.

It seems the primer post is slightly wider than the primer. Is it ment to stop it when it hits the bottom of the cartridge? That would explain why it can't seat past flush.

I could file a slight taper and that would let it go in more

[stilly]

I would make sure that you are using the CORRECT size of primer seater first. There are SP and LP primer seaters. They cup the primer and are spring loaded so that the cup drops to around the metal base. It COULD be possible for one to be defective I guess, but really, are you pushing forward hard enough? Here is what I do, I will push forward with my right arm and grab the press with my left hand and make sure that I am squeezing them together enough. I do not have to do this all of the time, but it seems to help with LPP from S&B and WOLF or TULA.

Settle down with that file. Why is it so important to be able to smash the **** out of your primer? Do you REALLY want smiling primers? IF it is made so that you can not go past flush, then LEAVE IT BE. Things like this are why Lee has redesigned their hand primers so many times. Every time they fix the issue of smashing primers, some gorilla finds a NEW way to smash the **** out of a primer and then when they blow up, Lee goes back to the drawing board and they try to see where they screwed up.

But the problem is not them, the problem is US. So just chill and prime and be happy that you are able to seat primers flush on the fastest turret in the world...

[tonyjr]

I had so many problems with primers on my load master , that I started depriming and priming by hand .
I also went to just CCI primers . As stilly said - S&B , WOLF ,TULA and a bunch others make primers I won't use .
To be fair , when I was having problems , I was buing the cheapest /what ever was on sale .
My problems were primers blew up , got stuck in chute , bent , would not seat .
I like my cases clean and at one point , it made no sence to me to load the tubes , decap on press then vibrate / sonic ,[ I did not have a rotary at that time except the little harbor freight one - O K for rifle cases but too small for pistol ]

[boyguan]

I am using cci spp. Cases are used cases from my last range trip. All random brands

Here are some photos

I loaded a few 223 with the same primer tool and some went in deeper. I did measure the primer pocket to be .116 and the primer to be .117.

Is it possible the primer pocket is not deep enough?

[Divernhunter]

Use a hand primer. Prime cases while watching TV and batch process your brass.

[santacruzgunner]

I have a turret and it take a good firm up stroke. A good linear push all the way some cases have a different feel than others, primers included. It's a great press don't give up I felt the same way when I got mine I was convinced it was garbage, just takes practice

[sghart]

I know this may be a silly question but are you using the large primer arm in your press instead of the small primer arm?

The kit comes with both and it would explain why the primers stop at flush. Also an easy mistake to make.

[stilly]

^^^^^ YEah, I said that previously. OP has not addressed that yet.

Some primers DO go in like butter, but NO primer needs to be seated more than FLUSH. Start looking at some of the headstamps to your problem brass. You might be able to find the issue. Maybe you got some bad brass that is a tad shallow.

Maybe it is Blaser making the new and improved 1/2spp... Oh and they will not tell anyone because they do not care about reloaders.

[boyguan]

I am 100 percent using the small primer arm.

As long as flush is ok. I just read about rifle seating lower to prevent slam fires.

I setup my friends press and loaded on his lee before. Just don't remember primer being flush on pistol

[tonyjr]

Pistol and rifle - both are flush .
On semi autos , a hot load will fling cases farther and if they hit right the base can bend .
This happens to me mainly on the 50 AE and 44 DE . Some factory or reloads area little hot .
On pistol cases I hand deprime and you can see it after you know what to look for .
On rifle bottle necks - same thing - you can see when they go into shell holder [ plate in my case ] sometimes so bent they won't go in .
I used to straighten - now they go into brass bucket .
Lee decapper pins [ not universal ] have a tapered section that can straighten bent mouths , but to much can leave brass on it and start to scratch inside of case .

[stilly]

I am 100 percent using the small primer arm.

As long as flush is ok. I just read about rifle seating lower to prevent slam fires.

I setup my friends press and loaded on his lee before. Just don't remember primer being flush on pistol

hahahahahahaha.

It AINT gonna seat low enough to make a difference.

Slam fires are mainly due to poor rifle design in that area, or rather, not made to be SAFE. But we deal with it in reloading by using rifle primers which also have a little thicker primer cup. (srp/lrp)

Slam fire. I once loaded the Deagle with a round that I had intentionally let the primer hang out of the back. You know what happened? The gun shoved the round forward and into the barrel and when I pulled the trigger, it shot... When I looked at it, the bolt had actually pushed the primer in for me, so it was like there was never any issue. NOW, it COULD very well be possible that the round being fired slammed against the bold and that is how the primer was seated fully, but you can't tell at the end of the day, it fired, no issues...

I had tried to intentionally create a situation for one and it failed. PARTLY because the Deagle has a spring on the front of the firing pin as I discovered recently when I took it all apart and cleaned it.