anyone ever see this before?

[divingin]

Interesting... So before you store your brass, warm it for 30 minutes to chase out moisture...

No reason to (at least in this context.) If moisture-induced corrosion is the issue, the corrosion has already done its damage. Drying it out *may* remove the corrosion accelerant, but won't do anything for the existing corrosion damage.

You might want to keep the moisture out of your dies; for that it would make sense.

[Redemption]

All my used brass, pistol or rifle, gets deprimed fist with a Lee universal. Then cleaned before prep, now or later.

I have shot them in the back "yard", picked them up from the dirt, took them to the bench, loaded them again on the turret and took them out and shot them again.
Worked just fine, but I don't like the idea of dirt in the dies and it may not make a difference but I like clean primer pockets.

Lots of ways to skin a cat.

Best
caveman

agreed, I tend to store up lots of brass so I only have my stored brass cleaned and prepped, I wish I was lucky enough to shoot in my back yard. Something tells me the cops would have a problem with it, plus the rest of my block....and the people who get accidently shot...

Redemption said,



Copper/zinc alloys are............Brass

Copper/tin alloys are..............Bronze.

Bronze alloys are a hell of a lot harder, but much less malleable than Brass.

Quite a co-inky-dink. My first real paycheck job was as a boat builder/mechanic. I had Certifications from OMC, Volvo Penta, and Merknhaufer. Damn, just remembered that was in 1964. I must be get'n old.

That is quite a co-inky-dink

last Volvo I pulled came out of a 38 foot Hans Christian, a fantail model, my last boat was a 1971 38 foot center cockpit 1 of 4, the precursor mold to the Phoenix 44 if you are familiar. She had the old 2 cylinder Yanmar model, the one with the brass hand crank option. She was getting in the way of my guns and motorcycle so she had to go.

I had the same problem with 40 cal, but mine were dry tumbled and then run through my 1050/bulletfeeder. Most of the time, I would feel the resistance when sizing or swaging the pockets, I had one make it at least to the primer station and it blew a primer. Luckily it didn't blow the whole stack. I have no idea where the brass came from or if it was weathered much. There seemed to be a number of those in part of a 5 gallon bucket of 40 cal that I was working through.

You never know with some of this bras, a number of times Ive picked up my empties, got home and realized I picked up 20 or so from the guy in the lane next to me too, who knows how many times the guy next to me reloaded them...but once their in my possession Im going to do my best to make use of em.

Galvanic corrosion requires dissimilar metals. I don't think that's the case here.

as mentioned earlier in the post, primer cups are a different type of brass, with a different mixture and therefore are dissimilar.

My nephews go camping / hot springs . No unesal or them to bring back cases [ mostly pistol ]
Anyway maybe 1 in 20 , I will poke a hole in primers , but that does not count the green / really dirty or creased - bent ones .
I have not checked for Galvanic corrosion - I just figured cheap ammo / old / cheap thin primers .
Seldom do I have cases more than a week before they get deprimed , cleaned and reprimed . I don't reload until I get about a hundred or so .

Thin primer cups are a possibility too, but some of this brass Ive had sitting since before I started reloading, some have sat with primers for something like 4 years. (just recently got my 40 die)

Interesting... So before you store your brass, warm it for 30 minutes to chase out moisture...

Hey there Stilly! Long time man, my pins are stick kicking brass clean as good as the day I bought them from you!

I probably blame you though, somehow this is your fault

My brass is all stored indoors, these days it isnt a humidity issue, but they were once garage stored so it is possible.

No reason to (at least in this context.) If moisture-induced corrosion is the issue, the corrosion has already done its damage. Drying it out *may* remove the corrosion accelerant, but won't do anything for the existing corrosion damage.

You might want to keep the moisture out of your dies; for that it would make sense.

indeed

[stilly]

HEY NOW!

Honestly speaking, if it were an ongoing issue, I would decap my 40 as soon as I got it home OR put it in a pile to decap a few here and a few there and work it down.

OR, when that happens,cuss and swear for a few minutes and then toss them and go about your life. I would keep a good enough sample of them though to see if there was one brand that was worse. But damn man, decap and clean them, **** happens I guess... If this is your only issue with .40 so far, that's not too bad.

[God Bless America]

as mentioned earlier in the post, primer cups are a different type of brass, with a different mixture and therefore are dissimilar.

They are similar enough to have a very low electrolytic potential difference. I have never seen galvanic corrosion caused by different brasses.

I will be surprised to hear anybody on this board actually has.

[pacrat]

They are similar enough to have a very low electrolytic potential difference. I have never seen galvanic corrosion caused by different brasses.

I will be surprised to hear anybody on this board actually has.

I have definitely seen it in relation to different "brasses". In the marine industry, not ammo . So I can definitively say it "can" happen.

Whether that is the cause of these particular stuck primers. I doubt we will ever know, without extensive lab testing that no one is going to do.


JM2c

[tonyjr]

I think I have seen it in boats - mostly in the locks , but like posted - not worth having checked - cheaper to just replace .
I think I came across it in carburtors - mainly the jets and seats

[Redemption]

HEY NOW!

Honestly speaking, if it were an ongoing issue, I would decap my 40 as soon as I got it home OR put it in a pile to decap a few here and a few there and work it down.

OR, when that happens,cuss and swear for a few minutes and then toss them and go about your life. I would keep a good enough sample of them though to see if there was one brand that was worse. But damn man, decap and clean them, **** happens I guess... If this is your only issue with .40 so far, that's not too bad.

Thank god they are all decapped now. Today is the first run for that 40 brass in the tumbler so I will give a look at the primer cups and see if there is any pitting or corrosion damage, But I agree with you. I think it was just an interesting thing of note. How have things been? Doing well?

They are similar enough to have a very low electrolytic potential difference. I have never seen galvanic corrosion caused by different brasses.

I will be surprised to hear anybody on this board actually has.

Well they were also in the garage for about 4 years, their not now, but they were for a long time, so the dissimilar metals together with ambient moisture fluctuations maybe got em stuck enough... or who knows maybe they were just thin old primer cups that corroded over time?

I have definitely seen it in relation to different "brasses". In the marine industry, not ammo . So I can definitively say it "can" happen.

Whether that is the cause of these particular stuck primers. I doubt we will ever know, without extensive lab testing that no one is going to do.


JM2c

Agreed on all accounts. Out of curiosity, the residue left in the primer cup after a round is spent, is that substance corrosive to brass? Corrosive residue might explain the thinning of the primer cups.

I think I have seen it in boats - mostly in the locks , but like posted - not worth having checked - cheaper to just replace .
I think I came across it in carburtors - mainly the jets and seats

Common in boats, usually the tiller shaft would leach nickel, Zinc is a common sacrificial metal used for combating the natural current in the water. They are bolted to the bottom of the boat so that the current will eat that instead of the prop and prop shaft etc. There are countless examples in the boat industry of that but most of them generally when the metal is going to see long term submersion in the water.