Tweet
I am moving up from lee Breech loader to the Loadmaster (so no need to discuss other brands). I reload for pretty much all popular rifle and pistol calibers. What are the most common components I will need to buy that doesn't come with the Loadmaster kit (I plan to buy the kit in 9mm since I dont have the dies yet). If you can give part numbers great, but if not that is fine. Also I heard something about using a universal depriming die in one of stations?
-
-
When I had my loadmaster, I had a universal decap in station 1 & sized/primed in station 2. That took care of all the primer seating issues I had.
Make sure you pick up a bunch of spare primer slides. -
yup universal decapper and an extra turret or 2 also get extra drums for your powder drop.reloading is like building tiny rocket ships. and testing how well they fly (or dont).Comment
-
I bought a Universal decapping die and Factory crimp die to make all five stations used. Other than that I made a few minor mods.
I just started 2 months ago with Load Master and had so many problems with the priming that I removed the spring from the priming ram and size and decap in Station 1 and use universal decap with pin removed in Station 2.
Since then, no problems with priming. So if anything I would remove a part.
I changed out the powder measure chain for a spring and attached it to the bolt for the priming arm.
I also use lube on 9mm cases a recommendation from another reloader. It helped reduce the pressure needed to raise the ram thus reducing the tilting of the press.
My only problem that I am trying to fix is variation in COAL. I have reduced it but looking to get it down to +/- .001".
For me I needed to get a feel for press as well.Comment
-
Well the first thing I did was buy real dies! I use lee through expanders, and that's about it. And even then, I like (and use) lyman M dies earlier in the turret for the "real" expanding step.
I hate lee dies. Hate. And that is coming from a guy who buys and uses and likes alot of lee stuff. Their dies suck.
-----------
Anyways, shell plates, bullet feeders (awesome), case collator (buy two, one for 9mm specific), the large primer chute, a ton of turrets (number of cartridges you want to reload plus 2), extra universal decappers, if you are me you buy Lyman M dies, multi tube bullet feed adapter, an extra case feed tube pack, and I bought the auto drum. one per toolhead would do it nicely. buy some RCBS or hornady lock nuts and throw away the LEE ones. (or keep the lee ones for your single stage only dies)
I also have a string of 1/4-20 nuts on the case feeder to set multiple heights instantly. and CA glued LED strip lights under the top of the press to light up the shell plate like a baseball game at night.
----------------------
I keep a turret with universal deprime in station 1 and nothing anywhere else. So I can deprime progressively without touching brass to prep for stainless tumbling.
For real loading (pistol) I put the sizer and decapper in station 1 then the lyman M die in station 2. I have no alignment issues for priming. In fact, the only priming issues I have ever had was not putting in 10 more primers than I needed, and not immediately and anally cleaning up a powder spill that happened once. That gummed up the chute and primers went in sideways.
A clean and dry primer chute with at least 10 primers head space will never fail to prime on you.
If I bridge powder tomorrow and spill onto the shell plate that will trigger a full stop with primer chute disassembly and clean. I'll be back up in 10 minutes without a hiccup.Last edited by Whiterabbit; 07-06-2016, 11:13 PM.Comment
-
9mm? Ugg. I heard something about the 6s plate being better for 9mm, but you need to grind it down a bit - put a little bevel on it for the shell to fit.
Get about 2-3 of the Ejector/pawls and an extra o-ring or two for the center.
When you get it, look at the primer bolt that the pin hits and pushes the primers, it looks like a bolt with a nut or two on it on the left side top of the press. I would recommend you smooth that off on the top if there are still bolt head numbers on it.
Make sure where ever you mount it that it is ROCK SOLID. Including the shake brake if needed. Any movement in it could mess up primers.
I use a Lee universal decapper in station 1, station 2 is a Lee resizer + prime and I just back out the decapping rod. Station 3 is my Hornady LNL powder dropper with powder funnel expander. Station 4 is my Dillon Seater, but it needs to be a Lee seater if you want to make use of the bullet feeder and because the Dillon likes to smash SWC. Then station 5 is the Dillon Crimper.
If it does not come with that large case collator then get it- It is this:
http://www.titanreloading.com/lee-ca...earch=collator It is also a GOOD thing to get the 1/2" Vinyl tubing to fit inside the holes and mod it so shells do not drop upside down as easily.
This thing seems like it did good giving those tubes extra support:
Extra tubes are nice to have:
Finally- these Lee folding tray primer packs seem really cool:
For only a couple of bucks each you can fill them and stack them up with 100 primers each then close and lock them so they are ready to feed into your loadmaster like extra magazines. Better than primer tubes and they take a lot less time to fill up. I got a pack and looked at them and they seemed okay despite the idiot review on the titan page.
Buy a few packs of 2 and you can have 500+ primers ready to go.Last edited by stilly; 07-07-2016, 6:13 PM.7 Billion people on the planet. They aint ALL gonna astronauts. Some will get hit by trains...
Need GOOD SS pins to clean your brass? Try the new and improved model...
And remember- 99.9% of the lawyers ruin it for the other .1%...Comment
There are currently 12774 users online. 38 members and 12736 guests.
Most users ever online was 239,041 at 10:39 PM on 02-14-2026.
Comment