building an AR 15

[Eljay]

You can only buy a handgun every 30 days (PPTs excepted) but under current laws it doesn't apply to long guns and the stripped lower is technically a rifle. So it's more a question of balancing spending $70 now on something he might not need versus not being able to get one later, the $25 DROS fee, two trips to the gun store etc.

re: calibers - oh, it's endless. Some calibers like 300 BLK you just need a different barrel, it's all the same parts as .223 otherwise. Some like .22LR it's best to get an upper designed for that but it'll plop right onto a standard lower and you use magazines designed to fit into the standard magwell. Yet other calibers like 9mm would typically use standard 9mm magazines (there are a couple of options, one uses Glock mags) and an adapter fills the extra space in the lower so they don't wiggle around too much. Or you could get a dedicated 9mm lower, they make those too.

For 308 you would actually need a different lower for an AR-10 since it's too long otherwise.

[jcourson]

Can we get this moved somewhere else? Maybe gunsmithing or general?

[LowThudd]

As stated above, you can buy as many lowers as you like on one DROS. With as many nephews as you have, I think I would plan ahead and buy several at once. The law may change, and they may no longer be available soon.

You just know, if one nephew gets one, the others will also. lol

[Lead Waster]

Get an Anderson lower and just about any parts kit is good. I would recommend buying a complete upper. Building a lower is stupid easy. Uppers are a little more work, still easy, but more tools required. You can build a lower with almost nothing more than a punch and hammer.

Not to be rude, but google is your friend. There are probably 1000s of threads and videos on this topic.

Agreed. I decided to build (assemble, really) my own AR-15 lower and upper just to experience doing it. I THINK I have all the parts, but there are a lot and I kept having to order more bits and pieces, not to mention special tools like a upper-vise block, an AR-15 tool (for the various large nuts and stuff) and even though I have a 3/8" Torque wrench I had to order a 1/2" one to fit the AR-15 tool. So I spent $100 more on extra single use tools.

BUT like I said, I did it to see if I could do it, and to become super familiar with all the parts.

For previous builds, I just bought complete uppers from Midway. INstalling the parts kit into the lower is fairly simple except the bolt release roll pin, which had me gnashing my teeth and eventually buying a new roll pin after F'ing up the one in the kit. (bought from Ace hardware for 32 cents instead of $3 from Brownelss).

[nedro]

I would suggest getting 2 or more striped lowers if you can. You will save on transfer fees.

Sometimes (always?) this bug will bite and one is not enough!

Good luck and have fun.

Best
caveman

I really don't know what this guy is talking about. I'm on my third build now. The next three are going to be tricked out.
Wait, What did I just say?

[ScottsBad]

Thanks -
I did not know there are no lowers to stay from .
I think he would be better off buying a complete one / rifle but he does not want to . My nephew is afraid of the next election and he won't be able to find / buy . I we are stocking up on primers , powder and FMJ bullets .

It takes me at least 45 minutes to get to a rifle range - I only went once last year and then only the 270 and 30 carbine rifles were shot [ by nephews ]
After 2 mags from 50 - was told not to shoot anymore - scaring the women and children . [ they went thru all the 380 , 9's and 45's we took . ]

Die wise , the 30 carbine is O K , but I have had the 270 cases get " stuck " in dies and not a fan of doing 3 things in one step . I will probably end up with the 4 die Lee set and maybe one 2 die set . I crimp / resize the pistol and rifle reloads weather they need or not . [ I use the / a 25 ACP powder thru die for 270 , 30 carbine and 30/30 reloads ]

This post should probably be in the centerfire semi-auto section, but it doesn't matter too much.

Just figure out the budget, you need to know what you want to spend.

I suggest buying a complete rifle for his first rifle. At least buy a complete upper so you don't have to buy the special tools to build the upper.

If you are going to buy a complete low cost rifle here the best choices in order.
1. Colt Expanse or better the 6920
2. S&W MP15
3. Ruger AR556

If he is going to build, most any lower that is in spec will work. I like the Mega Forged lower, some will say Aero, what ever.

Buy a lower parts kit, BCM makes a really good one with a pretty good trigger for $100. http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/AR15-...k-semi-blk.htm

Buy a mil-spec buffer tube, a castle nut, and an end plate. Buy a stock that fits a mil-spec bffer tube.

I suggest buying a complete upper and a bolt carrier group to go with it. Otherwise you'll spend another $200 on tools to build it

[popeye4]

For previous builds, I just bought complete uppers from Midway. INstalling the parts kit into the lower is fairly simple except the bolt release roll pin, which had me gnashing my teeth and eventually buying a new roll pin after F'ing up the one in the kit. (bought from Ace hardware for 32 cents instead of $3 from Brownelss).

There are simple tools for the PITA steps and they don't cost much.

Bolt catch pin: http://www.brownells.com/search/inde...atch&ksubmit=y
Front pivot pin detent tool: http://www.brownells.com/search/inde...+pin&ksubmit=y (worth it's weight in gold!)

Brownells is your friend, but can be almost as big a money sink as guns themselves!

[tonyjr]

scottsbad -
Thanks - I just finished reading about hand gun calibers in carbines .
Again - I did not know the AR was considered a carbine .
I will probably end up buying a complete one - thanks for the suggestion of
1. Colt Expanse or better the 6920
2. S&W MP15
3. Ruger AR556
I just got the Natchez catalog today and it lists American series dies for the 223 [ 2 die set ] - I never heard of them .

[Lead Waster]

There are simple tools for the PITA steps and they don't cost much.

Bolt catch pin: http://www.brownells.com/search/inde...atch&ksubmit=y
Front pivot pin detent tool: http://www.brownells.com/search/inde...+pin&ksubmit=y (worth it's weight in gold!)

Brownells is your friend, but can be almost as big a money sink as guns themselves!

Yeah, I looked at those, that's $40 worth of tools.

What I found was that the bolt catch roll pin was somewhat too fat (too unrolled?) and it got mangled even when I used a proper roll pin punch. I bought a replacement one, chamfered the leading side, and also lightly oiled it, then it went in easy. I was using a DPMS lower parts kit.

As for the front pivot pin, I manged it without the tool, though it would have certainly made it easier, still that is a luxury tool... I put a clear plastic bag over the area so I could see what I was doing and yet also not have the detent pin/spring go rocketing across the room. With a hobby knife (xacto knife) I was able to keep the pin in while installing the pin.

[Eljay]

I've done four of them without a pivot pin tool and I 100% agree it's not necessary and I 100% wish I'd just bought one in the first place because I'll probably just give in and buy one before next time.

[Lead Waster]

I've done four of them without a pivot pin tool and I 100% agree it's not necessary and I 100% wish I'd just bought one in the first place because I'll probably just give in and buy one before next time.

Yeah, that's the thing ... if you are buying a convenience tool, then buy it at the very beginning, on your first build, so you can enjoy it every time.

The flat sided roll pin punch can at least still be used as a normal roll pin punch I guess.

[dwalker]

dwalker
looking at the pictures - it looks like there is not powder die . for my 270 , 30/30 's and The 30 carbine , I use the one for my 25 ACP .

I charge all my cases with a powder thrower or trickier, not on the press.

My process is:

Tumble
Sort
Lube
Size and decap
Swage primer pocket if needed
Trim
Prime
Charge
Seat bullet
Tumble to remove lube etc.

For long range load I will also debur flash holes and uniform primer pockets

[tonyjr]

dwalker

My process is:
deprime , Swage primer pocket if needed , clean primer / flash hole
Tumble
Lube if needed [ rifle shell and the 44 mag and 50 AE always ]
The only sorting is to separate the mags from normal - different primers
Trim - if needed - so far 3 50 AE's needed

on press
Size case
charge
Seat bullet
OAL bullet
Crimp
I don't Tumble to remove lube etc. - Just wipe off . The wiping serves a couple of purposes - any nicks , burrs etc show up .
I have 6 nephews and 2 nieces that reload at my place and I know a lot of what I do is not necessary but they learn the right way / my way .
I / we reload 25 ACP , 32 ACP , 380 ACP , 45 ACP, 9mm , 38s , 357 , 44 mag , 370 , 30/30 and 30 carbine
They are either to cheap to buy a press [ would rather buy another gun ] or just like coming here to eat and reload .
Like most reloading was my time and was when the wife was watching her soap operas .
Now my knees are so bad , I don't hunt and my nephews could not track a bulldozer .

[stilly]

My nephew wants to build one .
I am in east bay and want a good place to buy parts
[ Lower receiver to start ] Would like names to stay away from .
I know next to nothing about the AR15 / M 16 except that they sucked
When I was in 'Nam - I prefered the M-14 .
Anyway I ordered
" Build Your Own AR-15 Rifle : In Less Than 3 Hours "
After I read it / book . I would prefer to walk in pay and wait to be cleared .
I am also looking for dies to reload with but it looks like Lee is only
one who uses more than 2 dies .
I use all 5 stations on my Lee for the pistols and my 270 , 30 carbine
and 30/30 , [ yes , that means at least 2 sets of dies ]
I am kind of [ pick your word ] I deprime , tumble , clean pockets , reprime
before I get to the press .
station 1 expand / size case
station 2 powder
station 3 seat bullet
station 4 OAL
station 5 crimp

I agree, I think about 3/4 of this post belongs elsewhere, the other 1/4 can be deleted. Not sure what the issue is but I REALLY have to know how the hell do you OAL a cartridge? That is a MEASUREMENT, not a VERB.

And I am not sure how 2 sets of dies help but okay. Sounds like you are making things WAY more complicated then they need to be with that statement, but again, I am failing to see where this post is going.

Will you be so kind as to remove the parts in r- hmm. yeah nevermind.

I will just watch the antics ensue and ponder how to OAL something...

Will OP at least inject some more humor into this thread? Like that little foreigner did when he posted about learning how to be a survivalist and a marksman and kill pigs with a .22lr from 100 yards out and then posted the photos/movies to show it could be done... :\

Please?

[dwalker]

dwalker

My process is:
deprime , Swage primer pocket if needed , clean primer / flash hole
Tumble

Generically tumbling after depriming is a bad idea as the media can and will clog the flashholes leading to inconsistent performance.

Lube if needed [ rifle shell and the 44 mag and 50 AE always ]
The only sorting is to separate the mags from normal - different primers
Trim - if needed - so far 3 50 AE's needed

This is a big issue. You always trim AFTER sizing, as the act of resizing is part of what makes the brass "grow". Triming before sizing is a waste of time and can lead to issues with chambering.

on press
Size case

Again, you need to measure the cases after sizing and trim/debur/chamfer

charge

With rifle cartridges I have found it somewhat difficult to get consistent charges with a press mounted powder measure. With .223 I recommend you be very careful if you decide to do so as it doesnt take much to get an overpressure round.

Seat bullet
OAL bullet
Crimp

I am not sure what you are doing here. My dies seat to length in one operation, and using the Competition seating die I set it and forget it. I have tried crimping but found that in rifle rounds a crimp delivers inconsistent performance.

I don't Tumble to remove lube etc. - Just wipe off . The wiping serves a couple of purposes - any nicks , burrs etc show up .
I have 6 nephews and 2 nieces that reload at my place and I know a lot of what I do is not necessary but they learn the right way / my way .
I / we reload 25 ACP , 32 ACP , 380 ACP , 45 ACP, 9mm , 38s , 357 , 44 mag , 370 , 30/30 and 30 carbine
They are either to cheap to buy a press [ would rather buy another gun ] or just like coming here to eat and reload .
Like most reloading was my time and was when the wife was watching her soap operas .
Now my knees are so bad , I don't hunt and my nephews could not track a bulldozer .

I tend to load about 500 rounds at time on my single stage press using the process above, basically I do huge batches of cases in the tumbler, then sit down and just load them up. Since I shoot about 300-400 rounds a week average, I get to repeat this process often.