2nd hand, 3rd hand, ? hand press...former life...

[McGuiver]

Well I have been loading a lot since January. I don't know how many primers will fill a 2 liter bottle, but mine is over 3/4 full of spent primers.



I also shoot a lot. I loaded 2k in 38spl the other day. No problem with my press. Same usual care of oiling it before and after use.

I went to reload some custom 38spl rounds with Alliant e3 powder and my press was frozen up almost solid. The ram had less the 3 inches of movement, and very jerky. I pulled apart the press only to find gauling on the upper pivot pins. The lower on had minor gauling.





I tried to put some more oil and drift the press pins out. They were stuck. I had to use some Liquid Wrech penetrating oil. I let that sit for an hour and it then came apart with the help of a 2lb brass hammer.

I called Dillon yesterday and explained my problem. They said no problem, we will send he replacement parts out under warranty. Now I'm waiting on the parts to rebuild. I will keep you all updated. Don't know what kind of life this beauty had before, but she will be restored. On all the big punching presses or old matching shop equipment I have ever work on or used, they all had manual oilers. Newer equipment had automatic pump lubrication systems. I will think about trying to restore the old arms and drill oiler holes in the arms. I will also put an oil grove on the internal part of the arm. This is what should have been done originally.

Anyone else have problems with the press parts gauling? I wish this had oilite bushings to pivot on. I have some oilite material, and I may bore out the old arms and press in some oilite material to last a lifetime.



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[anyracoon]

Gotta Love Dillon's no BS Policy

[fguffey]

The ram had less the 3 inches of movement, and very jerky. I pulled apart the press only to find galling on the upper pivot pins. The lower on had minor galling.

There are caged rollers with seals on both ends. When restoring a hole/bore it is possible to restore the hole with a knurl and then finish with a reamer; if Dillon picked their numbers/shaft diameters out of the sky finding the correct size knurl and reamer could require some research.

I have never found a press that required a lot of work, most of the ware I have was found has been caused by dirt, grit and grime that were packed in while the press was being used. I do not believe lube packed in one side shoves ware particles out the other side.

I do not believe a reloader can created enough heat while using/operating the press to gall the pivot connections. The press could have gotten wet when the pins were dry of oil; moisture could have caused the pin to rust.

F. Guffey

[Divernhunter]

I have several presses(RCBS, Hornady and Dillon 650) that have had tons of ammo run thru them. Never seen that and I must say I rarely clean/lube any of them.
Personally I do not think you need to do all of what you stated to it. Besides in 20 years if you have a problem they will take care of it for free. That is if we can still own firearms in this flipping state.....or even the country if your buddy Clinton gets in office.

[ar15barrels]

I wish this had oilite bushings to pivot on.

I am feeling too lazy to go measure my 550, but are they 1/2" shafts?

http://www.mcmaster.com/#oil-impregnated-sleeve-bearings/=12oidl3

Looking at about $4 for 4 olite bushings...

[milotrain]

oilite bushing upgrade

[McGuiver]

There are caged rollers with seals on both ends. When restoring a hole/bore it is possible to restore the hole with a knurl and then finish with a reamer; if Dillon picked their numbers/shaft diameters out of the sky finding the correct size knurl and reamer could require some research.



I have never found a press that required a lot of work, most of the ware I have was found has been caused by dirt, grit and grime that were packed in while the press was being used. I do not believe lube packed in one side shoves ware particles out the other side.



I do not believe a reloader can created enough heat while using/operating the press to gall the pivot connections. The press could have gotten wet when the pins were dry of oil; moisture could have caused the pin to rust.



F. Guffey

Gauling can happen any time. It can can be caused by dissimilar metals or refractory metals (titanium). Some metals tend to gaul easier then others. It could be a spec of sand that scratches the surface, then tolerances are out of spec, and bam...

Ever try to assemble a V-8 motor without assembly lube. You probably won't be able to get very far...

The gauling problems on the original Dillion's are a common problem due to the lack of lube able to get to the bearing surfaces.

[jericho89]

My Dillon 650 is so old it does not have any oiling holes or zerk fittings. If you want to oil a pin or pivot point you have to disassemble. Needless to say it had probably been oiled once prior to reading this thread (felt the need to do it after reading this) and it has run smooth for easily a few hundred thousand rounds. 20 years ago when things were cheap a thousand rounds a week or different calibers was not un realistic. There have been no major parts replaced, just a few of the plastic pieces that normally wear out have ever been replaced under warranty.

[fguffey]

[QUOTE=McGuiver;18259025]

[McGuiver]

[QUOTE=fguffey;18259441]

I always assemble motors with pre-lube. The turn it over by hand to verify clearances. Yes, I do run the oil pump with a drill to pre-lube with oil too. Then start on an engine stand that is bolted to the floor. You should never slide pistons in dry. Only time I slide stuff together dry is if I want a press fit, maybe wet with Loctite.

V-8, V-6, 2 cylinder has nothing to do with it. I was merely stating things should be assembled with lube to prevent gauling upon assembly. Most engine damage I have seen in new cars was due to parts being damaged during the assembly process.

I don't know what kind of life this press had before, or if it was ever lubed before I got it. This damaged could have started in its previous life. I'm dealing with it now. I will make sure it doesn't happen again.

[M1NM]

Put it together with synthetic wheel bearing grease. Repeat every year or so.

[McGuiver]

This is the type of assembly lube I was speaking of.

https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/racing/engine-assembly-lube/

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[fguffey]

Put it together with synthetic wheel bearing grease. Repeat every year or so.

And then there is the old long fiber greases that was used on ball bearings. Not something most can keep up with but at the time long fiber grease worked on caged ball bearings but when tapered bearings came available with disc brakes a better lube was required. Rational: long fiber greases was too thick when it was cold and too thin when hot.

Still in an area that most can not keep up with; there is nothing about the press that requires a premium lube. When I consider a lube for the moving parts I consider a thick lube that will not pour out iof a bucket when the bucket is turned upside down. Luberplate is available, but for short term, it hardens and dries out.

F. Guffey

[fguffey]

delete

[McGuiver]

Dillon is awesome. The warranty is great. Parts came in today by mail.



I will be putting my press #1 back together tomorrow. I like the grease groves they cut into the main shaft bearing surface.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk