Melting pot or shotgun press?

[Adam_12]

I've been loading for a few years now and I think I might want to expand. A family friend recently gave me what feels like a ton of lead. (2.5 gallons worth in a 5 gallon bucket, plus some coffee cans filled with lead.) When I first started reloading, casting seemed like it was too much work but now that it's in my garage and after all the reading I've been doing here, I'd like to start casting my own bullets but not without CalGuns input. I've saved up my Sportsman's Warehouse gift cards and am looking at getting their Lyman Big Dipper kit. I know I'd still need a sizing press, sizing dies,and bullet molds. Currently, I shoot 45ACP, 9MM, 10MM and 45/70 and will be adding to that whenever I can. It's tough for me to buy bullets/ammo for all these calibers so this is why I'm thinking of casting.

On the other hand, I'd also like to start reloading my own shotgun shells. I have a 12 gauge and a 20 gauge. I shoot the 20 far more than the 12 so I've been looking at the MEC 600Jr in 20 gauge. I mainly use it for pheasant hunting. However, shells are still pretty cheap and I hunt at a club so the lead free law won't effect me for awhile. I have hundreds of shells, a box of primers and plenty of powder so all I'd need aside from the press is shot and wads.

What say you, CalGuns?

[kcheung2]

I don't reload for shotgun but I hear that the cost savings are minuscule, while shotgun shells gave always been plentiful even during the ammo shortage of 2013. OTOH there are big savings in reloading 45 & 45/70 and the relatively low speeds of those projectiles is suited for cast bullets. By casting your own you can increase the savings even more. That's the direction I'd go.

[rsrocket1]

Get yourself a Lee 4-20 bottom pour pot and Lee 6 cavity molds (don't forget getting at least one set of handles for the 6 bangers). You'll really save on the 45ACP and 45/70 rounds and your molds will pay for themselves in savings with your first 500 bullets since your lead is free. After you use up all your lead, you can still save at least half the cost of the bullets if you cast them yourself. You don't need a sizing press, just get the Lee push through sizing kit on a standard single stage press. First see if you can load and shoot the bullets without sizing them at all. That will save you the cost of the $20 sizing kit if you don't need it.

The good thing about lead is that it is like primers and powder. You aren't committed to tying up your assets until you actually cast the bullet or load the cartridge. You have a stockpile of stuff that can be made into feeding any gun you wish when you get the urge to cast or load. Sure, you keep a decent stash of loaded stuff, but the majority of your components can go toward whatever cartridge you shoot the most.

[anyracoon]

Definitely get a bottom pour pot for casting. I use a Harbor Freight cast iron dutch oven pot for melting down bulk lead and old wheel weights and than blend them into L2 bullet lead poured into a old muffin tin.

[Tom-ADC]

I have a older Lee 20# bottom pour pot & a 20# dipper style, the bottom pour leaks a little when I'm using it not a big deal, I'd also recommend a lead thermometer.
I have used the Lee molds but like Lyman a lot better.
Also this is a great site for info http://castboolits.gunloads.com

[jericho89]

Great advice so far... let me add this. Yes you are not effected by the lead ban yet, but have you tried to get lead shot in ca lately? About $2 per pound. If you were to load light at 1oz that is 16 loads per pound, add wads and primers and you are hard pressed to save a lot of money.
Now as stated load your 45's and you are looking at close to $100 per thousand 45acp. It takes 33 lbs of lead to get that same 1000 rounds. With free lead you will be much more profitable casting then loading shot.

[stilly]

My name is not calguns so I will just leave this here...

https://www.facebook.com/Satans-Little-Smelter-588696474599768/

[Adam_12]

Get yourself a Lee 4-20 bottom pour pot and Lee 6 cavity molds (don't forget getting at least one set of handles for the 6 bangers). You'll really save on the 45ACP and 45/70 rounds and your molds will pay for themselves in savings with your first 500 bullets since your lead is free. After you use up all your lead, you can still save at least half the cost of the bullets if you cast them yourself. You don't need a sizing press, just get the Lee push through sizing kit on a standard single stage press. First see if you can load and shoot the bullets without sizing them at all. That will save you the cost of the $20 sizing kit if you don't need it.

Thanks for the information. Doing some research on the Lee melting pot, it seems a lot of people have issues with it leaking from the spout. People are still giving it pretty good reviews though. Have you encountered this?

As far as the push through die, I saw one in .457. Would that be an issue for my 45/70?

Great advice so far... let me add this. Yes you are not effected by the lead ban yet, but have you tried to get lead shot in ca lately? About $2 per pound. If you were to load light at 1oz that is 16 loads per pound, add wads and primers and you are hard pressed to save a lot of money.
Now as stated load your 45's and you are looking at close to $100 per thousand 45acp. It takes 33 lbs of lead to get that same 1000 rounds. With free lead you will be much more profitable casting then loading shot.

That's a good point. I believe the last time I saw shot, it was nearly $60 for a 25# sack.

My name is not calguns so I will just leave this here...
https://www.facebook.com/Satans-Litt...8696474599768/

With a name like that, how can you go wrong?

[Tom-ADC]

I bought the Lee .457 sizer and it was to small and bullets would drop in the case you can open it up. I pan lube mine and I don't size them they shoot fine as cast.
As noted my Lee leaks more like a drip, I just pick it up and drop it back in the pot but even that takes a while, oh make sure you use tongs or pliers if picking the drips up while casting.

[JagerDog]

I load shotshells. Have for 40 years. Difficult to save much/any $'s on 12 and 20g these days. Without volume of componenets, it's a losing proposition. I do think I get a bit better shell than the bargain stuff though...and I can load 'em like I want. Field loads you can save some $, but its low volume so savings is limited. Just starting some exotic non-tox...there's savings there.

I don't cast, load mostly Bear Creek in lead. I suspect better savings in casting, but fairly involved to go from pure lead to good bullets. I tell myself i'm saving enough by handloadig someone else's bullets.

[rsrocket1]

Thanks for the information. Doing some research on the Lee melting pot, it seems a lot of people have issues with it leaking from the spout. People are still giving it pretty good reviews though. Have you encountered this?

Yup, the leaking is from accumulation of junk that gets trapped at the bottom of the lead melt and works its way to the spout. A quick "blip" of the handle usually stops it. There is a slot on the top of the rod that controls the flow. A twist of the rod with a flat blade screwdriver also can stop the drips. The best thing to do to stop any chronic drips is to empty the pot at the end of a casting session and clean the insides out. I do this once every 4-5 sessions.
No need to do it every time.

As far as the push through die, I saw one in .457. Would that be an issue for my 45/70?

Yes, this is the one. Although you can get it cheaper at other online retailers. Be careful of the added shipping charges some of them charge because of the Alox in the kit.

That's a good point. I believe the last time I saw shot, it was nearly $60 for a 25# sack.
With a name like that, how can you go wrong?

Check around especially at local clubs and group buys with other high volume shooters. You can get shot for considerably less. For standard 12 gauge small shot, it's really not worth it to reload, but for buckshot and slugs, you can save a lot and the Mec 600jr is perfect for loading a box of 25 at a time.

I load 3/4 oz 12 gauge which brings the loads to about $3.30/box. When I got my progressive loader (used), I broke even after about 200 boxes. That's a lot of loading and shooting, but I did it in less than a year and can now load for clays, buckshot and slugs for essentially the same cost for all three (a little more for the heavier loads just because they use more lead).

[gunboat]

I suggest a Lyman cast bullet handbook to learn about melting and smelting various lead compounds -
It is easy enough for a newbie to muck up a good lead/tin/antimony mixture.

[jumbopanda]

I think the two go hand in hand if you want to reload slugs and/or buckshot. You can buy pistol/rifle bullets for a pretty reasonable price, but no one sells cheap buckshot pellets or slugs for reloading.

[snowdog650]

You live in California. It will only be a matter of time before it is nearly impossible to buy ammo for reasonable prices. I say buy both.

[Adam_12]

Yup, the leaking is from accumulation of junk that gets trapped at the bottom of the lead melt and works its way to the spout. A quick "blip" of the handle usually stops it. There is a slot on the top of the rod that controls the flow. A twist of the rod with a flat blade screwdriver also can stop the drips. The best thing to do to stop any chronic drips is to empty the pot at the end of a casting session and clean the insides out. I do this once every 4-5 sessions.
No need to do it every time.

Yes, this is the one. Although you can get it cheaper at other online retailers. Be careful of the added shipping charges some of them charge because of the Alox in the kit.

Check around especially at local clubs and group buys with other high volume shooters. You can get shot for considerably less. For standard 12 gauge small shot, it's really not worth it to reload, but for buckshot and slugs, you can save a lot and the Mec 600jr is perfect for loading a box of 25 at a time.

I load 3/4 oz 12 gauge which brings the loads to about $3.30/box. When I got my progressive loader (used), I broke even after about 200 boxes. That's a lot of loading and shooting, but I did it in less than a year and can now load for clays, buckshot and slugs for essentially the same cost for all three (a little more for the heavier loads just because they use more lead)

My next question would have been how often should one clean/drain the pot but that answers that. As far as skimming the dross off, do you just scoop it out and throw it away?

Also, forgot to mention I shoot .38/357. Would anyone recommend starting with a smaller caliber and working up to a bigger one or is all the same, just on bigger scales?

I suggest a Lyman cast bullet handbook to learn about melting and smelting various lead compounds -
It is easy enough for a newbie to muck up a good lead/tin/antimony mixture.

I bought Lyman's books on casting and shotgun reloading awhile back. Lots of good information in each, but I wanted to see what people had to say.