Which single stage

[Pauliedad]

Been reloading for a few years now and while I've worked out how to get a high level of accuracy out of my Dillon 650, I'm ready to try a single stage just to see if I can eek out a little more consistency. I'm thinking whatever flex I get from the shell plate might still be the cause of slight differences.
I will resize, prime, seat and crimp in the Dillon but only one function at a time. I charge the cases from a ChargeMaster.
Mostly reloading .308 and 30-06 but occasionally will do 30-30 and 300 winmag.
I'm not afraid to spend a bit more if it's worth it so let me know your thoughts.
Am I on the right track thinking the shell plate deflection is a source of variable that going to single stage will eliminate?

Redding seems to have some solid looking machines.

[bsumoba]

Single stage is probably the best way to go for your precision stuff. I am using a Forster Co-Ax. Has a lot of mechanical advantage so re-sizing big cartridges will be a piece of cake.

Redding presses are nice too. The Co-Ax is probably a little more nicer in its features than the redding ones IMO. The Forster will also not need any shellholders and it is a floating set up, so your dies self-centers itself during the re-sizing process.

Another thing you might consider is a more precise scale. The best, cheapest one is a GemPro 250. Gives you the precision up to 0.02 gr, which is plenty and usually gets you accurate within a kernel, maybe two.

[C.G.]

I have no experience with Redding presses, but I use my RCBS Rockchucker for precisely what you are describing (I have a Hornady LNL AP).

[Whiterabbit]

if you cast, Lee classic cast (for 50 bmg). Otherwise, anything the guys recommend that has a hollow ram will be better for you I'm sure.

Reason being, the ability to flip the press on a riser is really nice, as is the bushing for a larger opening, as is the hollow ram which should be a feature on every press. None of it really worth it if you don't cast.

[Pauliedad]

Nope. Not casting. Maybe in the future but I'm ok buying projectiles for now.
As for the Forester Co-Ax, I like how beefy it seems. If I decide to go down the road of just bumping back shoulders, how does that work on the Co-Ax?
Thanks, Paul

[Bumslie]

I have a redding big boss 2 and a newer rock chucker

Limited experience on a bonanza coax.

Prefer my big boss 2 over the rcbs. Because of its offset and the primer disposal.

The rcbs definately has more leverage, so if you're doing large cases I would go with that one.

The largest case I do is 30.06 and the redding handles it easily.

Either the rcbs or redding can adapted to use the hornady quick change bushings.

The coax is also nice. The floating die head is a nice touch. I wish I had some more hands on with it.

[liber]

Anybody have hands on experience with both the Redding UltraMag and Forster/Bonanaza Co-Ax?

[fguffey]

Am I on the right track thinking the shell plate deflection is a source of variable that going to single stage will eliminate?

I would measure the deck height of each position on the shell plate. Then there is the cantilever effect. The case's ability to resist sizing can have an effect on the presses ability to size the case back to minimum length.

Centering the case over the ram in a single stage press offers the maximum amount of leverage. Even then, the press flexes, a reloader with a feeler gage can measure the amount of flex. The reloader can also use a deviation gage, the reloader can use a tension gage to measure deviation and or flex.

Problem, most reloaders would rather talk about it. When sizing cases that offer resistance to sizing I use a good lube, the lube I use for difficult cases is a no-name lube, for everything else I use RCBS 11 and I have some old stuff from Lyman.

I remove lube from cases after sizing.

F. Guffey

[BigBronco]

If you are only sizing on the press the deflection would or should be consistent. However the concern I would have is that any deflection, since it is not centered on the empty case may cause the case the case to enter the die slightly out of angular alignment. IE the base plate would not be at a prefect 90 degree to the die center axis. This should not happen in a single station press.

The top two with out going to an Arbor press IMO are the Forster coax with the Redding coming in as a close second. FYI, Redding claims the tightest tolerances in the industry. Both are great presses and I have had both. I sold my Bonanza / Forster as it did not accommodate the length of competition seating dies. I intend to replace it with the newer model.

For the most part you will be pleased with any quality O frame press you decide on. Money not a concern get the Forster and don't look back.

Oh, The Forster co-ax is picky on die lock rings. You may need to replace the ones you currently have. Not all makes fit in the slot.

[liber]

Am I on the right track thinking the shell plate deflection is a source of variable that going to single stage will eliminate?

Paulidad,

One thing I wanted to mention is that I've heard others talk about the Dillon loosing precision at the shell plate, but I know on mine I added the needle bearing and a single washer on top of the shell plate and adjust the shell plate carefully. Seems to me that the toolhead is the more likely area, as they are made of aluminum and over time will wear, especially the tongue around the toolhead that fits in the slot.

I've been considering getting the toolhead clamp kit that UniqueTek makes, thinking that it might stiffen that up. I've heard that secures the toolhead nicely and adds some precision to the Dillon presses.

I try to keep an eye on my shell plate in case it starts to get loose and tighten it up, but once it's set correctly it doesn't seem to move much. The other thing I was thinking is that the set screw that holds the shell plate bolt in place (small one on the side) just pushes against the flat recess of the shell plate bolt. I wonder if using a SHCS with brass tip might prevent that from moving, or even a nylon tip might help as well. You can buy those at McMaster-Carr easily. The brass/nylon tip might compress to hold it better.

[Divernhunter]

I have 3 RCBS presses. The RC is great but I prefer to seat the bullets on the RCBS Jr press since I have more feel and it goes faster. The 2nd RC is a spare if I ever wear out the one I got in 1972

[JMP]

It really isn't that critical of a decision as long as you have a press that is large enough for the cases you are reloading. A standard 7/8" press and ordinary shell holders, you can go as large as a Lapua Magnum. What really matters is that your ram moves in alignment with your die.

If you do a lot of cases, you probably want to get a 1.25" and get the Hornady LNL adapter so that you can use LNL bushings. It makes the process quite a bit faster.

[huckberry668]

I suggest you look into floating your sizing and seating dies on your 650. That's most of what you'll need in sizing and seating for precision.

I used a RCBS RC press for almost 20 years. Till I bought a Forster CoAx. CoAx isn't too beefy at all. I mounted it on a piece of 2x6 and use C-Clamps to mount on table top when I need it. I used to take it to the range in my reloading tote box. But I use Lee Hand Press now so my tote box is a lot lighter.

Now I do all my single stage reloading work on my Dillon 550B. I modified the tool heads to float the sizing and seating dies. Modified and added thrust bearing in the index sprocket so it's smoother and I can mount the shell plates closer to the platform. Most if not all my progressively loaded rifle rounds come out within .002" in run-out. shoulders bumped within .002" of each other. Bullet seated within .001" at the ogive. Except for fine grain ball powders, I charge the cases as a separate step for stick powders. I even load the neck-size only rounds on my 550. this is where the index sprocket mounted low and close to the platform is needed. It can be all progressive if I don't clean the primer pocket and with ball powder.

There are no difference between the accuracy/precision of the same load out of CoAx and 550b. But I save a lot of time doing on the progressive. I spent the time saved on case prep. I trim on a Giraud, RCBS Universal prep for the rest. necks still have to be turned on a Sinclair hand tool.

['ol shooter]

My 1978 Rock Chucker is still going strong. I put the new style handle on it at no charge, thanks to Big Green for taking extra good care of their customers. I use and like the Quick change bushings.

[noylj]

To me, there are only two single-stage presses worth considering:
Forster Co-Ax — best I have found. Dies simply slip in a slot and there is a "universal" shell holder. I had an RCBS RockChucker for about one year back around 1973. Didn't like it. Got the Co-Ax and never regretted it. One thing at least back then was the RockChucker threw spent primers all over the garage. The Co-Ax was about the first that had a pipe and bottle to collect all spent primers. So, you get great engineering, great ergonomics, great features, and no primers thrown all over the place. Only negative I can think of is it doesn't have a primer tube, so I got an RCBS bench-mounted priming tool—which I also can strongly recommend over almost any other priming system other than a couple of progressive presses.
Lee Challenger — great value for money and has die bushings so once you adjust the dies, you don't have to adjust them again. Would not get ANY press without die bushings or tool head—or, like the Co-Ax, no need to ever screw in die any way. Can't think of anything this press can't do as well as any other single-stage, other than not costing a fortune, not weighing a ton, and not having any WOW factor if you show it to a friend.
I also recommend the $25 Lee Reloading Press. Will make ammo as accurate as any and I always have one on a bench for depriming cases before cleaning, bulge busting, and if I simply have a small job I want to do. Have loaded up to .30-06 on it without any issue, other than it doesn't have the leverage of larger presses. Got same accuracy from it as from my other presses, so it doesn't take a lot of money for accurate rounds.