Power Supply Question

[POLICESTATE]

Good Brands
Corsair (pretty good)
Antec (aww yeah)
Thermaltake

Bad Brands
Everything else
A-Power sucks btw

[Kyle1886]

I think the first PS that was a "no go" was at the time of the build last June, a Logisys that the builder got from Computer Geeks locally. It would not run more than a few minutes without killing the system. It would not run any other machine either, so I don't think the two incidents are related. An A-Power 800w is what he replaced it with.

I think getting a "branded" PS is the next step--then go from there.

NoseNuggets, you think that a short may have showed up prior and be more consistant over the months?

Thanks all, all input is appreciated.

Kyle

[Montu]

^ yea those were really crappy psu's...which like mentioned above probably don't have enough amps on the 12v rail(s)

one really strong rail is ok but some of the crappy psu's have 2 weak rails

[Kyle1886]

Thanks DeadBolt, I'll look at those. Actually, the "lights" did not flicker, but was like a major brown-out going steadily to a black-out---just never blacked out. Akin to the entire system being on a dimmer switch (rheostat).

Ahhhh-I don't want a "smokey PC",...

Respectfully
Kyle

[Deadbolt]

Thanks DeadBolt, I'll look at those. Actually, the "lights" did not flicker, but was like a major brown-out going steadily to a black-out---just never blacked out. Akin to the entire system being on a dimmer switch (rheostat).

Ahhhh-I don't want a "smokey PC",...

Respectfully
Kyle

ok thats actually a good thing as a bad mobo can cause any number of components to fail in tandem and prematurely.

The"brownout" aspect is telling that it is indeed a PSU issue and unlikely mobo issue.


The next thing to do is start removing components and isolating configurations and testing there in.

Glamorous i know

[Nose Nuggets]

shorts are usually there, or not these. unless somethings is loose, then you might see the short when you knock the case or something.

[speedrrracer]

Keep in mind that a surge supressor does nothing for the kind of crappy, spiky power that is typically what your local power company delivers to your home.

Everyone who wants to get max life out of their electrical components should invest in a line conditioner, if only for those most-valuable components such as important computers.

[JDay]

I think my power supply is going south, the second in less than a year. They have both been 800w units. The main system is as follows:

Hardware:
MB - P7P55D-E
ACPI x64
i7 CPU 870 @2.93GHz
2 Western Digital HDD (Non-raid)
2 LG CD/DVD Drives
USB-2 (4) and 3 (2)
Nvidia GT 430 (Graphic)
Esata/firewire ports
Floppy

Fans: 120 mm x 25mm (3) (Min. 5v required for each to start-operating voltage 10.2-13.8)
Fan: 200mm x 30mm (1) (same as above)

Do I need more wattage than 800w's? What would be the minimun I need?

What's a good reliable brand? I have not had good luck with A-Power, or Corsair. Locally I can get NZXT, CoolerMaster, and Thernaltake at 800w or greater. There is a better selection in the 600w--800w range.

Thanks for any feedback.

Respectfully
Kyle

800w is more than you need for that setup. I'm curious as to why your Corsair PSUs have failed, they're some of the highest quality on the market. Antec is another reliable brand. If you've been blowing them I bet you have power line issues in which case you want to connect your computer to a UPS since they have built in line conditioners.

[JDay]

You should be ok with 800w.

Two most common reason why PSU fails in my experience:
1. Power surges/spikes.
2. Overheating.

3. Cheap PSU.

[JDay]

I agree, however I don't think that is the issue this time. There is plenty of air movement, and the unit is plugged into the largest surge suppressor I can afford, although I don't discount anything when PC's are involved.

Thanks,
Respectfully
Kyle

Surge suppressors do not condition the current. You want a line conditioning unit, such as a UPS.

EDIT: I would also check the motherboard for any bulged capacitors as that will cause problems. If you find any you will need to replace the motherboard.

[orangeglo]

Surge suppressors do not condition the current. You want a line conditioning unit, such as a UPS.

EDIT: I would also check the motherboard for any bulged capacitors as that will cause problems. If you find any you will need to replace the motherboard.

Bulging caps is a sign of botulism or maybe that is bulging cans.

[JDay]

Bulging caps is a sign of botulism or maybe that is bulging cans.

Looks similar.

[Kyle1886]

JDay, the Corsair PS problems I had were with past PC's (DOA), not this particular unit. I'm aware of the difference between the typical surge suppressor and a UPS---and yeah the power in my area is not the best. I'll check out the capacitors, thanks for the feedback.

Booting this AM, everything fine...

Ahhh, Orangeglo, stewed tomato cans that bulge---DO NOT OPEN INSIDE HOUSE---unless you plan on painting the kitchen...(When I was a kid, my Dad thought it would be "educating moment" to show us all the effects of opening said can with the old type punch can opener---)

Thanks all, again appreciated

Respectfully
Kyle

[Wherryj]

I think my power supply is going south, the second in less than a year. They have both been 800w units. The main system is as follows:

Hardware:
MB - P7P55D-E
ACPI x64
i7 CPU 870 @2.93GHz
2 Western Digital HDD (Non-raid)
2 LG CD/DVD Drives
USB-2 (4) and 3 (2)
Nvidia GT 430 (Graphic)
Esata/firewire ports
Floppy

Fans: 120 mm x 25mm (3) (Min. 5v required for each to start-operating voltage 10.2-13.8)
Fan: 200mm x 30mm (1) (same as above)

Do I need more wattage than 800w's? What would be the minimun I need?

What's a good reliable brand? I have not had good luck with A-Power, or Corsair. Locally I can get NZXT, CoolerMaster, and Thernaltake at 800w or greater. There is a better selection in the 600w--800w range.

Thanks for any feedback.

Respectfully
Kyle

You can't answer the question by wattage alone. Many companies rate their supplies differently. The 12v Rail is the most important, and many cheap supplies have little power on that circuit. There are also tricks with rating peak instead of constant and rating at zero degrees instead of case temps of 40 degrees (supply efficiency falls off with increasing temp).

Stick with one of the better brands and you should be ok. PC Power and cooling, Thermaltake, etc. I've had good success with Silverstone as well.

[lewdogg21]

I've had a PCP&C 660 wfor maybe 4-5 years (before ocz bought them) and it's been a solid rock.

From what I knew back when I built my pc it's sorta like Car stereo cd player amp ratings. They may claim 22 A constant but really deliver 12.