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I don't know how many people are following, but I did a bunch of builds using various kits to make of Glock slide compatible frame from scratch and not.
Lately, I was talking a couple of people about building with only front and rear pieces of Marigold Glock kit. At first, I did not like the idea, but actually I see it is not bad idea. The new kit Marigold-3 has it's midsection reduced to minimum. What this means that you can use airsoft frame for a Glock build where airsoft frame does all the mag holding and top steel piece handles all the work with the slide. This speeds the build a lot.
I built a Glock frame while filming. The actual work of building took around 30 min. Is not bad. It does not include time to find all the drill bits on the floor, cauterizing wounds and smoking breaks. I will post more still pictures also re-shoot shooting as it was very dark in basement of shooting range.
Also, it is not first Glock I built so some parts were done on eyeball and I have some jigs that speeds things up. Some parts like dremeling airsoft frame could have done faster as I used that bit to carve aluminum and it was dull.
Guarder frames are popular but they expensive and hard to find. This one, is $13 and many places have it.
Building Glock 17-22-31 in 30 min, using Armus (a-r-m-u-s.com) Marigold-3 kit (http://www.a-r-m-u-s.com/mg3.html), CYMA G18C Airsoft Spring Gun Pistol ZM17 ($13) and Glock 22 LPK ($75)
Three things that you need to get this party started, Glock LPK for G22, Marigold 3 kit and ZM17 airsoft pistol
Overview of MG3 kit, it's a lot like MG1 and 2, except the mag piece is shortened and also the aft piece is shortened to the same length
grinding of rails for the front piece
grinding of rails for the aft piece
grinding locking block that unlocks barrel, to fit into the forepiece
mark and drill holes in the forepiece to hold the locking block
notch the dimple on the middle piece to have the aft piece lining up for welding. Note that for J2, it may require additional fitting.
Setup 3 pieces on the welding jig
Weld three pieces together
mark and cut slots for slide stop
make hole for spring stop
weld the spring stop in
clean the weld joint
prepare airsoft frame by taking off the "slide" and pulling few other parts away
dremel some parts out of airsoft frame. I am showing another frame that was already dremeled out and marking with white-out those areas that need to be milled out. Those areas are pretty obvious once you try to fit the iron frame in, but they look much more visible on camera.
the ejector piece needs to be slightly trimmed with few slashes of a knife, also very obvious where once you try to squeeze it in. This is how your assembly should look like with a mag. At this point it can be fired. Pins and some adhesive would make this more durable.
rough frame sides in prep for glueing
glue the steel frame in the plastic frame
I am showing three things here. One, the pin holes work perfectly to secure locking block and the trigger housing, essentially pulling entire steel frame into the plastic frame. Two. Gen 4 slides don't really work since the dust cover over the spring is just too tight and would not let Gen4 go back. This could be solved by widening/ dremeling it out. Three, the rail actually works with your basic accessories like lasers and flashing lights. This should be a great comfort to people who are into the tacticool doodoo.
slow mag dump
Lately, I was talking a couple of people about building with only front and rear pieces of Marigold Glock kit. At first, I did not like the idea, but actually I see it is not bad idea. The new kit Marigold-3 has it's midsection reduced to minimum. What this means that you can use airsoft frame for a Glock build where airsoft frame does all the mag holding and top steel piece handles all the work with the slide. This speeds the build a lot.
I built a Glock frame while filming. The actual work of building took around 30 min. Is not bad. It does not include time to find all the drill bits on the floor, cauterizing wounds and smoking breaks. I will post more still pictures also re-shoot shooting as it was very dark in basement of shooting range.
Also, it is not first Glock I built so some parts were done on eyeball and I have some jigs that speeds things up. Some parts like dremeling airsoft frame could have done faster as I used that bit to carve aluminum and it was dull.
Guarder frames are popular but they expensive and hard to find. This one, is $13 and many places have it.
Building Glock 17-22-31 in 30 min, using Armus (a-r-m-u-s.com) Marigold-3 kit (http://www.a-r-m-u-s.com/mg3.html), CYMA G18C Airsoft Spring Gun Pistol ZM17 ($13) and Glock 22 LPK ($75)
Three things that you need to get this party started, Glock LPK for G22, Marigold 3 kit and ZM17 airsoft pistol
Overview of MG3 kit, it's a lot like MG1 and 2, except the mag piece is shortened and also the aft piece is shortened to the same length
grinding of rails for the front piece
grinding of rails for the aft piece
grinding locking block that unlocks barrel, to fit into the forepiece
mark and drill holes in the forepiece to hold the locking block
notch the dimple on the middle piece to have the aft piece lining up for welding. Note that for J2, it may require additional fitting.
Setup 3 pieces on the welding jig
Weld three pieces together
mark and cut slots for slide stop
make hole for spring stop
weld the spring stop in
clean the weld joint
prepare airsoft frame by taking off the "slide" and pulling few other parts away
dremel some parts out of airsoft frame. I am showing another frame that was already dremeled out and marking with white-out those areas that need to be milled out. Those areas are pretty obvious once you try to fit the iron frame in, but they look much more visible on camera.
the ejector piece needs to be slightly trimmed with few slashes of a knife, also very obvious where once you try to squeeze it in. This is how your assembly should look like with a mag. At this point it can be fired. Pins and some adhesive would make this more durable.
rough frame sides in prep for glueing
glue the steel frame in the plastic frame
I am showing three things here. One, the pin holes work perfectly to secure locking block and the trigger housing, essentially pulling entire steel frame into the plastic frame. Two. Gen 4 slides don't really work since the dust cover over the spring is just too tight and would not let Gen4 go back. This could be solved by widening/ dremeling it out. Three, the rail actually works with your basic accessories like lasers and flashing lights. This should be a great comfort to people who are into the tacticool doodoo.
slow mag dump
high five.
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