locking underbed gun storage

[Cult Hero]

As an owner of several long guns and pistols and the father of three kids I am looking to increase the security of my firearms.

I am not necessarily concerned about my children messing with the guns but it is just the responsible thing to do. My handgun is currently in a gunvault biometric safe under my bed and my long guns are in range bags unloaded.

I am looking for some sort of underbed storage that I can secure the long guns but still have decent access. The under the bed storage is the only thing I have to work with currently as I just don't have the space for a floor standing gun safe and the long guns are currently under the bed so the space is there.

I have been researching for a while and surprisingly there is very little that fits what I am looking for. It is either more than I am looking for or not enough or too much $$ or too small.

This is what I am currently looking at and the pros and cons of each.

the Wardog flat gun safe. Very secure, very strong, ideal. $$$$$$$$$

About $1800



the Amsec. Decent, but too small. Security ok, but I need it to hold four long guns and magazines.




the Bed Vault by Truck Vault. Limited security, but not too pricey. A lot of money for what it is. I don't like that a key is the only security option.




and the monstervault.

This is my front runner. Not necessarily for security as I recognize it for what it is, but it is more secure than a range bag, but I am not sure of the construction and it is not cheap for what it is $600- $700




In the other thread that I bumped, everyone was piling on about the crap construction of the monster vault, and yes it is not as robust as the wardog, but it is a third of the cost. I am surprised there aren't more options out there for under the bed safes, as it is a fairly underutilized space and for those of us with space concerns and a need to lock up firearms but not necessarily prevent theft, there seems to be little option.

Any suggestions...

[lolkopter]

Why buy a cheap safe for expensive guns? Might as well use a suitcase with a padlock on it. My two cents

[Cult Hero]

because I can't justify $1800 on the safe I want and I am trying to increase my security from where it stands now. If I had the room, I would have a floor standing, but that isn't an option.

[sl0re10]

because I can't justify $1800 on the safe I want and I am trying to increase my security from where it stands now. If I had the room, I would have a floor standing, but that isn't an option.

yeah, do it.

You can shore up security in other areas... alarm system / motion detectors et cetera... and/or even get creative and look for cheap ways to make the inexpensive safe better yourself... plus if you have any ideas you can spread out the upgrades for when you can afford them...

[Well Oiled Machine]

You can get a really nice Winchester 28 or 24 rifle safe for around that same price range, tractor supply by my house has them for 700...thats what I'll be getting.

[Spyguy]

You're not going to want to hear this, but the only safe listed in your post that is worth any money is the Wardog. The rest are only going to keep honest people honest: they can all be opened with a pry bar in a matter of seconds.

But I understand that the Wardog is beyond your budget (and for that price, I'd want a full-size upright safe). So this is what I would do instead of paying $700 for that crappy Monstervault:

1. Go to HomeDepot and buy one of these: Klein Tools Steel Storage Chest. $259


2. Using an angle grinder with a metal cut-off blade, cut the feet off the bottom. Using a metal sanding disc (with backing plate) in your angle grinder, smooth the bottom where you cut off the feet.

3. Next, use masking tape to mark a straight line around the perimeter of the box just above the recesses for the carrying handles.

4. Use the cut-off tool to cut along the edge of the tape. Now you have the top of the box and the lid as a separate assembly.

5. Measure the vertical height under your bed where you will be putting your security container, from the floor to the lowest part of the bed frame.

6. Measure the height of top assembly you cut off the box.

7. Subtract the measurement in step 6 from the measurement in step 5.

8. Take the bottom part of the box and measure from the bottom up side by the amount calculated in step 7, plus 1/2" inch. Using masking tape, mark a straight line around the perimeter of the box at this height.

9. Using your cutoff tool, cut along the taped line.

10. Now you have a top half of your new box and a bottom half. If you place the top part on the bottom part, they should be 1/2" taller than the vertical space under your bed.

11. Take the top piece and flip it upside-down. Make 3/4" vertical slits at the four corners. You should now have four flaps of metal, 3/4" tall, forming a skirt along the bottom of the top part.

12. Place the top part on the bottom part so that the front and right side skirt flaps are on the outside of the bottom part, and the back and left side flaps are on the inside of the bottom part. Press the top part down into the bottom part. The total height should collapse by ~3/4".

13. Check the fit of the box assembly under your bed. It should slide under with about 1/4" clearance. If too tall, separate the top from the bottom and make your skirt slits a little longer.

14. Separate the top from the bottom and use your sanding disc to smooth the edges of all the cuts. Also remove at least 1" of paint from the inside and outside of the metal all the way around the perimeter of the top and bottom parts. Reassemble the top to the bottom.

14. After the fit is correct, take your box to a local welder and have him weld the top to the bottom around the perimeter of the skirt (and weld the skirt slits). This should cost about $50.

15. Take it home and use your sanding disc to smooth any rough welds. Take a rattle can of primer and paint the bare metal. Then paint with a topcoat. You probably will want to paint the whole box a semi-gloss black so it is less noticeable under your bed.

16. You now have a box that can be locked with two padlocks. It won't be the prettiest, but it will be at least as strong as anything you've listed above other than the Wardog. The whole project should cost less than $350.

17. You can drill through the bottom to screw it to your floor, but then you will have to move your bed to open the lid. Alternatively, you can drill two holes in the back and insert a u-bolt capturing a heavy bike cable. Padlock the other end of the cable around something relatively secure. This will allow you to slide the box out of your bed.

Realize that nothing will stop a determined thief. Consider all the underbed solutions as merely a deterrent. Even the Wardog can probably be defeated fairly quickly by a professional thief.

[sawtooth]

I'm in the market for exactly the same sort of "safe". There certainly seems to be a premium for the under bed form factor compared to upright safes.

The War Dog looks nice, but it's not significantly heavier than the Monster Vault (though it is smaller so it's more dense, i.e. thicker steel). It's also got a pretty small interior volume, especially for the price.

Basically all the reviews I could find online for the Monster Vault appear to be from the same guy. I don't know if he's affiliated with Monster Vault, but it's kind of suspicious. He sure does think "Steve Edmondson, owner of Hilltop Workshop, LLC and creator of the Monster Vault is a stand up guy"

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=781525

http://www.safeandvaultstore.com/monster-vault-under-bed-gun-safe.html

http://blog.predatorbdu.com/2012/12/monster-vault-underbed-safe.html#comment-937052221

That said, unfortunately it does seem to be the best option for me for now. If I'm going to spend $2000 I'd rather get a bigger safe, but that's not feasible in my current apartment.

I may end up getting a "real" safe eventually, and keeping the Monster Vault under the bed with a shotgun/handgun for home defense would make sense.

[jglabe]

If you are the least bit handy with tools just make one. There are a ton of ideas/plans on the internet. Plus you can build it to fit wherever you want. It could be in a place that no-one would expect a safe to be. It could even be disguised as something else. An entertainment center perhaps? The sky is the limit!

[Thunder]

You're not going to want to hear this, but the only safe listed in your post that is worth any money is the Wardog. The rest are only going to keep honest people honest: they can all be opened with a pry bar in a matter of seconds.

But I understand that the Wardog is beyond your budget (and for that price, I'd want a full-size upright safe). So this is what I would do instead of paying $700 for that crappy Monstervault:

1. Go to HomeDepot and buy one of these: Klein Tools Steel Storage Chest. $259


2. Using an angle grinder with a metal cut-off blade, cut the feet off the bottom. Using a metal sanding disc (with backing plate) in your angle grinder, smooth the bottom where you cut off the feet.

3. Next, use masking tape to mark a straight line around the perimeter of the box just above the recesses for the carrying handles.

4. Use the cut-off tool to cut along the edge of the tape. Now you have the top of the box and the lid as a separate assembly.

5. Measure the vertical height under your bed where you will be putting your security container, from the floor to the lowest part of the bed frame.

6. Measure the height of top assembly you cut off the box.

7. Subtract the measurement in step 6 from the measurement in step 5.

8. Take the bottom part of the box and measure from the bottom up side by the amount calculated in step 7, plus 1/2" inch. Using masking tape, mark a straight line around the perimeter of the box at this height.

9. Using your cutoff tool, cut along the taped line.

10. Now you have a top half of your new box and a bottom half. If you place the top part on the bottom part, they should be 1/2" taller than the vertical space under your bed.

11. Take the top piece and flip it upside-down. Make 3/4" vertical slits at the four corners. You should now have four flaps of metal, 3/4" tall, forming a skirt along the bottom of the top part.

12. Place the top part on the bottom part so that the front and right side skirt flaps are on the outside of the bottom part, and the back and left side flaps are on the inside of the bottom part. Press the top part down into the bottom part. The total height should collapse by ~3/4".

13. Check the fit of the box assembly under your bed. It should slide under with about 1/4" clearance. If too tall, separate the top from the bottom and make your skirt slits a little longer.

14. Separate the top from the bottom and use your sanding disc to smooth the edges of all the cuts. Also remove at least 1" of paint from the inside and outside of the metal all the way around the perimeter of the top and bottom parts. Reassemble the top to the bottom.

14. After the fit is correct, take your box to a local welder and have him weld the top to the bottom around the perimeter of the skirt (and weld the skirt slits). This should cost about $50.

15. Take it home and use your sanding disc to smooth any rough welds. Take a rattle can of primer and paint the bare metal. Then paint with a topcoat. You probably will want to paint the whole box a semi-gloss black so it is less noticeable under your bed.

16. You now have a box that can be locked with two padlocks. It won't be the prettiest, but it will be at least as strong as anything you've listed above other than the Wardog. The whole project should cost less than $350.

17. You can drill through the bottom to screw it to your floor, but then you will have to move your bed to open the lid. Alternatively, you can drill two holes in the back and insert a u-bolt capturing a heavy bike cable. Padlock the other end of the cable around something relatively secure. This will allow you to slide the box out of your bed.

Realize that nothing will stop a determined thief. Consider all the underbed solutions as merely a deterrent. Even the Wardog can probably be defeated fairly quickly by a professional thief.

How would he open it from under the bed? The lid is on top right?

[Spyguy]

How would he open it from under the bed? The lid is on top right?

Correct. Read step 17. It's not a perfect solution, but it's economical and at least as secure as the other options. I assume that he is not planning to stay in an undersized apartment all his life.

[flatbedtruckin]

Didn't see anyone mention the bed bunker..two piece vault that is nearly impossible to remove from a residence once assembled and extremely theft resistant...fits right under the bed.. Might be some vids on utube..

[redcliff]

Didn't see anyone mention the bed bunker..two piece vault that is nearly impossible to remove from a residence once assembled and extremely theft resistant...fits right under the bed.. Might be some bids on utube..

I was going to mention that one also, they have a whole product line of concealed safes. http://bedgunsafe.com Unfortunately they may be too $$$.

[Sheepdog1968]

Fort Knox also makes one good for long rifles. If you are more worried about the kids than theft (you can buy gun insurance for cheap from collectables inc), there is another possibility. Lock up the bolts from the long arms. Will greatly reduce kids having accidents and would allow for a smaller safe.

[sawtooth]

I ended up going with the MonsterVault, and I'm pretty happy with it for what it is (not a true "safe") except it's NOT (yet) approved by the CA DOJ for meeting the gun storage requirement, so I ended up having to buy a bunch of stupid $10 locks (one for every unbuilt stripped lower... really?!)

[2nd Mass]

Thanks for the kliens tip. Even without modification if you cut the legs off it looks like it would have better weight displacement then a traditional safe. Wouldn't work under the bed w/o mods but would work great where there's room.