MIM ???? Showing my ignorance

[buster1960]

I would greatly appreciate an education on the meaning of the term MIM. I assume it has something to do with the material that some of the internal parts are made of. Could someone please explain to me how these parts are good or bad and what, if anything, I should do about them? I am considering a Kimber Pro CDPII. As much detail as possible please. Thanks

[dustoff31]

I believe it stands for Metal Injection Molding. The process similar to plastic injection molding, except it's metal.

[damon1272]

MIM has come a long ways in the past few years. Poor MIM parts can fail easily quality ones will last a long time if not forever like a forged or billet piece. Personally I would look for as little MIM as possible but I would not let it be make or break in buying a quality built firearm as many manufactures have gone to this process.

[compulsivegunbuyer]

New guns are filled with MIM. Basically a slurry of metal powder and a binder is injected into a mold. This is called the "green" part. It is then heated to almost the melting temperature of the metal. The binder is burned off, and the part shrinks to size. They generally require no machining. They will most likely last the life of the gun. They look like crap though, especially on revolvers.

[Panchira!]

Yep as everyone said. One problem though if it doesn't get evenly heated it will be fragile. If you can find machined parts I would replace the MIM with machined.

[buster1960]

How do you determine which parts are MIM?

[Steve_In_29]

How do you determine which parts are MIM?

There is usually a small circle spot on the part where the material was injected.

I own one and after my crappy treatment by their customer service (over my still out of spec pistol) I STRONGLY suggest you skip the Pro CDPII and spend a few hundred more on the bottom of the line Les Baer.

While it has nothing to do with my recommendation, there is no MIM on the Les Baer.

[Beelzy]

How do you determine which parts are MIM?

A lot of said parts have a seam line, similar to those on plastic model parts.
Go look at a SIG 1911, MIM parts abound and one can easily tell what is what on those guns.

[compulsivegunbuyer]

There is usually a small circle spot on the part where the material was injected.

I own one and after my crappy treatment by their customer service (over my still out of spec pistol) I STRONGLY suggest you skip the Pro CDPII and spend a few hundred more on the bottom of the line Les Baer.

While it has nothing to do with my recommendation, there is no MIM on the Les Baer.

The circle is actually an ejector mark. All MIM parts have them. There is usually 2, one on each side of the part.

[buster1960]

I own one and after my crappy treatment by their customer service (over my still out of spec pistol) I STRONGLY suggest you skip the Pro CDPII and spend a few hundred more on the bottom of the line Les Baer

I'm not sure what prices your looking at but the Les Baer that compares closest to the Kimber is about $1000 more than the Kimber. Don't get me wrong, I'd love to have a Baer but thats just not in the budget.

Thanks for the answers to my question everybody.

[Steve_In_29]

The lowest price Les Baer is $1700 and is a way better pistol then my $1300 ProCDPII. If you are more interested in quality-of-construction over bells-and-whistles get the Les Baer.

Kimbers are at the top-of-the-bottom-end of 1911s while that Les Baer is at the bottom-of-the-top-end of 1911s. A small but significant distinction.

Two trips back to Kimber while putting up with a SERIOUS ration of manure and my pistol still has the out of spec frame it left the factory with. The frame rails are not parallel, they are wider at the front then the back. Something that a micrometer shows plainly but that the head of their Custom Shop wouldn't acknowledge. There were other issues as well on the bought new by me pistol.

Spend some time searching "Kimber problems" before you lay out the money. If I had, there would be a Les Baer in my safe right now.

[saki302]

You will have no issues with PROPERLY made MIM parts.
The current S&W revolvers have them- externally you can't tell they're MIM, and they will last the life of the gun.

Poorly made MIM parts can be brittle and won't last.

-Dave

[sirgiles]

The lowest price Les Baer is $1700 and is a way better pistol then my $1300 ProCDPII. If you are more interested in quality-of-construction over bells-and-whistles get the Les Baer.

Kimbers are at the top-of-the-bottom-end of 1911s while that Les Baer is at the bottom-of-the-top-end of 1911s. A small but significant distinction.

Two trips back to Kimber while putting up with a SERIOUS ration of manure and my pistol still has the out of spec frame it left the factory with. The frame rails are not parallel, they are wider at the front then the back. Something that a micrometer shows plainly but that the head of their Custom Shop wouldn't acknowledge. There were other issues as well on the bought new by me pistol.

Spend some time searching "Kimber problems" before you lay out the money. If I had, there would be a Les Baer in my safe right now.

listen to this guy.

[ptusa]

You will have no issues with PROPERLY made MIM parts.
The current S&W revolvers have them- externally you can't tell they're MIM, and they will last the life of the gun.

Poorly made MIM parts can be brittle and won't last.

-Dave

This^^^

Also this link explains it well:

http://www.stiguns.com/resources/faq/faq-mim/

[buster1960]

I'd love to have a Les Baer, Ed Brown, Dan Wesson etc. I know I can get one of these with a steel frame for slightly more money than the Kimber but, in order to get what I want (light weight frame) I simply can not afford one. I am open to suggestions as to another, more reliable, Ca approved brand. Im looking for a light weight 1911 with a 4" to 4.5" barrel, night sights, full length grip for 7 to 8 round cap. I want a bobtail frame and a carry melt all in a flat black finish. I have an opportunity to buy a used (250 rounds) Kimber Pro CDP II for $975. I figure I can have the frame bobtailed, action tune and refinish the whole gun for about $400. I'd be in it for a total of about $1400.