How well does 9mm knock down steel targets?

[BLD]

I'm getting everything together to shoot my first 3 gun match next month (pending weather), and I'm wondering how well will my XD 9 4" will knock down the various steel targets. To those of you who use or have used 9mm in the various practical matches which bullet weight works best for taking down steel with the minimal number of shots. I asked around at the last match and all I got was "that's a good question, I don't know, I use a 45"

I'd use my 1911 (Dan Wesson) but I'd rather use the XD to roll around in the dirt. Plus I can buy 9mm for the same price I seem to be loading lead in 45.

[Lucky7]

I use 9mm to knock down steel but the farthest distance they were at is 20 yards.

[BLD]

That's about the farthest I've seen them placed, but I've only watched two of our clubs matches before deciding I just had to do it.

So what weight bullet do you use. I bought my limit of 115gr at a local shop, but that was the only weight they had for sale in the affordable stuff.

I'm thinking of ordering some bulk 147gr but I don't want to buy 500 rounds until I know my pistol will eat them without hiccups.

[Lucky7]

115 is the only grain i have tried and it works great. Have fun at the three gun match.

[Stormfeather]

115 gr works just fine.

[dwtt]

115 gr 9mm would not have any problems knocking over pepper poppers if you hit them in the upper part. If you hit them down near the hinge, the 9mm will just make some noise.

[Voo]

I'm getting everything together to shoot my first 3 gun match next month (pending weather), and I'm wondering how well will my XD 9 4" will knock down the various steel targets. To those of you who use or have used 9mm in the various practical matches which bullet weight works best for taking down steel with the minimal number of shots. I asked around at the last match and all I got was "that's a good question, I don't know, I use a 45"

I'd use my 1911 (Dan Wesson) but I'd rather use the XD to roll around in the dirt. Plus I can buy 9mm for the same price I seem to be loading lead in 45.

The match should have rules on the Power Factor required for each division/category. If your bullet, coming from your 4 inch XD makes this "minimum", then all steel shot "dead center" should fall.

If it doesnt, then the rules can vary on how it's handled. You may get a reshoot or they may simply count the steel as fallen. It's all dependent on what rules are being used to run the match. Just remember that it's up to you, as the competitor to know what rules are being used and how to arbitrate if any issues arise.

Ideally speaking, all steel should be calibrated to fall at the lowest PF. This doesnt mean that if you "nick" it should fall or that if a buttefly lands on it, it should fall. One well placed, solid hit should cause the steel to fall.

For USPSA, I make the minimum power factor using my G34 and a 124 grain bullet. Obviously the heavier the bullet, the easier it will be to knock down steel.. Personally, I like a lighter/medium weight bullet (124 grain) with some zip (~1050-1100 fps). This load makes PF and will drop steel without issue. I believe WWB zips around at ~1140-1200 fps. Ive used (as well as my friends) 1000's of rounds of WWB at matches. It's never been a problem when the steel has been properly calibrated.

It's a great question, but in a way, it's peculiar that the guys you asked had no idea what to answer.. If you've been competing for any reasonable period of time, it's a pretty standard method when calibrating steel..

Have fun at the match!

[yellowfin]

I seem to recall IPSC shooters using .38 Super because it qualified as a "major" caliber whereas apparently the 9mm did not. What's the deal with that?

[H2H]

.45 works better

[IrishPirate]

115 grain FMJ's do the trick just fine. You might have to put 2-3 on target, but that's kinda the point.

[BLD]

The match should have rules on the Power Factor required for each division/category.

This is just a club match and I don't believe there are different divisions. Last time I saw people using ARs and M1As, and 1911s and G19s all in the same groups. It seems to be a bring what ya got fun kind of practical weapons match. They also had a stage that required a .22 rifle last time.

From what I've gathered the only rules are related to safety, and not using steel core ammo or slugs on their steel targets.

Thanks, I can't wait to shoot next month.

[MrNiceGuy]

The small round pie plates is fine.
If you're talking about the 3 feet tall ones then it depends on how they're set up, if they're set up at an angle where a slight bump will knock them down (ie a good gust of wind), then 9mm will be fine.
If they're set up to lean forward a bit, then you better hit it towards to top to knock them down.
If they're set up to lean even more forward, then good luck. You will get no sympathies from the .45 shooters, they'll just tell you to bring a bigger gun next time....ask me how I know.....lol.

[BLD]

115 grain FMJ's do the trick just fine. You might have to put 2-3 on target, but that's kinda the point.

That's what I was thinking. If it takes a couple of extra shots it might make it more realistic. From what I've learned in my CCW class adrenaline can soak up quite a few pistol rounds before they do the trick. There's even been cases of a well placed .44 mag not doing the trick the first time around.

[randy]

9mm out of a 5" barrel with 125? PF one shot in the center of the round area of a Pepper Popper is what the rule is. Local club matches are generally set up without calibrating the steel.

Larger calibers give you a larger area to hit and still put them down.

If the stage has steel behind steel I drive down the first plate with as many hits as I can to get to the next steel.

[Voo]

115 grain FMJ's do the trick just fine. You might have to put 2-3 on target, but that's kinda the point.

You either lay down rules or someone ends up bringing in a fully automatic machine gun and mows down everything. Ok I kid, but it's important that when you play a game, you let everyone know what the rules are going to be. It doesnt matter what you decide really, so long as you're upfront about it to begin with.

That's what I was thinking. If it takes a couple of extra shots it might make it more realistic. From what I've learned in my CCW class adrenaline can soak up quite a few pistol rounds before they do the trick. There's even been cases of a well placed .44 mag not doing the trick the first time around.

I would be cautious about mixing up real world shooting with competitive action shooting. Keep in mind that when you have points and a timer is involved, it turns it into a game. There are overlaps in skill but the 2 are NOT the same. Rationalizing it out to be "real world" is often the haven of average shooters who downplay the 'gaming' aspect of action shooting in an attempt to compensate for their lack of performance. For me, it's somewhat disheartening to see people stifling their potential for the sake of being "tactical".

YMMV