Used firearm price evaluation

[captahole]

I am thinking of selling off some of my collection and wondering if anyone knew of a tool to get a realistic value of firearms? I see the classified ads here on the forum and cant tell how people come up with these values. I am just trying to be realistic and have fact based numbers that all.

Regards.

[9Cal_OC]

Might be helpful to list out what you have; photos help (if C&R or custom)

[Imageview]

Gunbroker for stuff that isn?t impacted by CA laws can be helpful.

[captahole]

I am just surprised that there is not transparency in the valuations. For example for a car you would start at KBB to get an idea.

[The Gleam]

Gunbroker for stuff that isn?t impacted by CA laws can be helpful.

You can still use it to qualify CA 'Off Roster' pricing. Log in, go to 'completed auctions' search, search for the firearm in question, and sort those completed auctions by closing price. Look for those that actually sold, not those that closed with a high buy-it-now price but no buyer.

99.9% of the time, those at the top end will have been guns that sold to a CA based buyer within CA by PPT/consignment.

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[Helpful_Cub]

You can still use it to qualify CA 'Off Roster' pricing. Log in, go to 'completed auctions' search, search for the firearm in question, and sort those completed auctions by closing price. Look for those that actually sold, not those that closed with a high buy-it-now price but no buyer.

99.9% of the time, those at the top end will have been guns that sold to a CA based buyer within CA by PPT/consignment.

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What are the typical transfer fees and taxes now? That should be factored in somewhere when selling.

[captahole]

Thanks!

You can still use it to qualify CA 'Off Roster' pricing. Log in, go to 'completed auctions' search, search for the firearm in question, and sort those completed auctions by closing price. Look for those that actually sold, not those that closed with a high buy-it-now price but no buyer.

99.9% of the time, those at the top end will have been guns that sold to a CA based buyer within CA by PPT/consignment.

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[The Gleam]

What are the typical transfer fees and taxes now? That should be factored in somewhere when selling.

That is not included in the final bid price, and is subjective on a case by case basis relative to each sale. Such as, you would not have Gunbroker's fees nor taxes on a PPT you sold throuh Calguns - but people still think as price being what it sold for outside of those costs when comparing to Gunbroker final pricing.

PPTs are still just $10 plus DROS fee.
PPTs must be done in person, so no other fees.
Most FFLs do incoming transfers for non 'Roster' items charge from $75 to $125 - and tax applies if not already paid to the seller.

If using Gunbroker just to get pricing, their fees and taxes do not apply as it's outside the sale price shown, but Gunbroker charges a 1% fee on their auctions now, and tax is mandatory on sales to buyers in states where sales-tax applies by buyers zip-code used on the buyer's account.

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[Steponmytoes]

I believe gunbroker has good values and if off roster just add on top

[morrcarr67]

I am thinking of selling off some of my collection and wondering if anyone knew of a tool to get a realistic value of firearms? I see the classified ads here on the forum and cant tell how people come up with these values. I am just trying to be realistic and have fact based numbers that all.

Regards.

I am just surprised that there is not transparency in the valuations. For example for a car you would start at KBB to get an idea.

That's hard to to do, even with cars. An older neighbor of mine is selling his 2004 Pontiac GTO and asked me to help him come up with an asking price. If you look at KBB; who says they get their value from actual sales, has his car valued at $13K in very good condition. But when you look at AutoTrader for a 2004 to 2006 GTO with 98K miles or more on them they are asking $20K. Have these sellers really dropped their prices $7K? He decided to ask $18K and see what happens.

As for the guns, GB is a good place to start if you do as others mentioned and look at completed auctions that actually sold. The CG MP is all over the place when it comes to sold items. Some people leave the price while others remove it making it hard to get a comparison.

If you want a realistic price you could always ask yourself, what would I be willing to pay for this today? If you're willing to pay that, I bet someone else would be too. Now, if you what you mean by "realistic" is how much can I really get for this. Then you just throw a price up that you think you can get for it. If it sells for that price you got a "realistic" price for it. If it doesn't then you'll need to lower it to get to that "realistic" price.

Once it's sold, you can help the next guy out by leaving the selling price listed in your ad.

GLWS

[SVT-40]

I am just surprised that there is not transparency in the valuations. For example for a car you would start at KBB to get an idea.

There is a "Blue Book of Gun Values"... But it's notoriously inaccurate.

https://bluebookofgunvalues.com/

With firearms there are condition issues that you wouldn't see on a vehicle. Also with some firearms were made with all matching serial numbered parts. Mismatching numbers detracts from value.. Refinishing detracts from value. Wear detracts from value.

Plus it's often subjective

[The Gleam]

That's hard to to do, even with cars. An older neighbor of mine is selling his 2004 Pontiac GTO and asked me to help him come up with an asking price. If you look at KBB; who says they get their value from actual sales, has his car valued at $13K in very good condition. But when you look at AutoTrader for a 2004 to 2006 GTO with 98K miles or more on them they are asking $20K. Have these sellers really dropped their prices $7K? He decided to ask $18K and see what happens.

I would never take Kelly Blue Book's valuation on anything, because it's an aggregate that includes junk as well, and they often fail to take into consideration production feature differences, engine differences, special models, improvements and upgrades a car like a GTO will often have, over a bone-stock car - unlike a Toyota Camry, which will likely be the same from car to car.

However, I can say that $18,000 for a 2004 with 98K is seriously overpriced.

2004 is the least sought after, as it had the 5.7 LS1 at 350-HP instead of the later 6.0 LS2 in 2005/2006 at 400-HP. It's also going to vary depending on whether it has the 6-speed manual or 4-speed auto.

I've seen nice 2004s with that kind of mileage hover around $8,500 to $14,000, even in great condition. So that $13,000 is not unrealiatic for a 2004.

If I were going to buy one, I would not even consider a 2004 - which is what most anyone else would be thinking if set on a 2004-2006 GTO or other Holden sleeper. I'm willing to pay a few thousand more for the LS2.

So the 2005/2006 counterparts skew higher, from $15,000 to $20,000 with that same mileage. In that case, $18,000 is about right, but not for a 2004.

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[ar15barrels]

I am thinking of selling off some of my collection and wondering if anyone knew of a tool to get a realistic value of firearms? I see the classified ads here on the forum and cant tell how people come up with these values. I am just trying to be realistic and have fact based numbers that all.

Regards.

True Gun Value is a website that gathers up pricing data from ended online auctions:

https://truegunvalue.com/

It won't be accurate for off-roster handguns in CA of course because it's using the whole country but for long guns and rostered handguns, it gives you something to start with if you don't want to buy a copy or a subscription to the bluebook of gun values.

[that one guy]

Op list out what you have.

[Bansh88]

If you base of the Calguns model: look up MSRP and add 10%