Another lube thread - Nano Precision

[smoothy8500]

I keep mentioning this from time to time and no one seems to pay attention.

Yeah, but I use "xyz" and its better......

[SilveradoColt21]

Frog Lube is the best! Use Frog Lube!



I use G96 on my semi-automatics, the military already did all their testing with it so I reckon it must be good enough for a civilian like me.

Somebody here had said that Frog Lube also attracts ants, never tried it myself so can't confirm.

[gsparesa]

Interesting. I thought that was a thing of the past. What make and model?

I don't remember exactly which manufacture but it was one of the following:

1. Dan Wesson PM7-45
2. Nighthawk Talon
3. Les Baer Primier II

It probably was the Nighthawk.

[gsparesa]

I applaud the use of a synthetic lube but the very best lubes have a relatively high content of either molybdenum disulfide or tungsten disulfide in it. I keep mentioning this from time to time and no one seems to pay attention. Both of those materials have a lower coefficient of friction than even Teflon. They can handle extreme pressure and extreme temperatures, they stay in place inside the micro pores of even polished materials, and are completely inert. Tungsten disulfide is even spayed onto the surfaces of medical implants such as artificial knees, shoulders, elbows, etc. One cannot find a better lubricant. I have some tungsten disulfide in a spray can that I spray on my AR bolt. No other lube.

Really? Aprox. three years ago, I Google-searched "Tungsten disulfide" and thought it was the bees-knees. So, I purchased a can of the stuff (WS2). I sprayed it on one of my best hand saws and it turned into a dark grey muck. The stuff built up a layer on the saw blade, which I have never been able to remove completely. Some of it has rubbed off along the sides of the saw blade just by the friction of cutting wood. I wouldn't use that stuff on my firearms.

[sonofeugene]

I would have never used it on a hand saw. And I can’t see the difficulty of removing every bit of the material except what gets into the pores of the metal. It shouldn’t add any more than about a few microns of thickness. Perhaps your saw had a build up of wood resin on it?

When I use the stuff, it goes on so thin that I can’t measure the difference even with a high precision micrometer. The stuff is good. Very good.

I once had a bolt gun where the action was stiff. I slathered on some paste I made from tungsten disulfide and synthetic oil. I worked the action 2-300 times to burnish the WS2 into the pores of the metal and then I cleaned all the excess off the bolt and receiver. Then I did a light lube again and the action was transformed.

I think you did something wrong.

[smoothy8500]

I once had a bolt gun where the action was stiff.

I worked the action 2-300 times... Then I did a light lube again and the action was transformed.

Sounds like it just needed to be broken-in.......

[gsparesa]

I dunno. I just sprayed the product on and it dried real quick.

[sonofeugene]

I'd take acetone to it with a rag to clean off all the excess. And remember, you may also be cleaning off other stuff, like wood resin.

And it dries really quick because it's a dry lubricant. The liquid is very volatile a is only used as a carrier.

Finally, I don't think it will help a lot on a saw. Saws are made so that the cut made by the teeth is a little wider than the thickness of the saw blade so you don't really need to lubricate the saw.

[sonofeugene]

Sounds like it just needed to be broken-in.......

Well, I had run the bolt many, many times before I tried the tungsten disulfide. It wasn't until I ran that lube and cycled it that it finally got really smooth.

[gsparesa]

I'd take acetone to it with a rag to clean off all the excess. And remember, you may also be cleaning off other stuff, like wood resin.

And it dries really quick because it's a dry lubricant. The liquid is very volatile a is only used as a carrier.

Finally, I don't think it will help a lot on a saw. Saws are made so that the cut made by the teeth is a little wider than the thickness of the saw blade so you don't really need to lubricate the saw.

I tried acetone, lacquer thinner, paint thinner... none of it worked to remove the stuff. This spray is like a quick drying epoxy with suspended tungsten disulfide. It is slicker than snot to the touch but it builds-up. They state it's for sporting goods, cutting tools, bullet and ammunition parts. But I would not go there. I reload and I wanted to use it on my bullets as well but I won't go there now. You can read the product suggestions here. All-in-all this stuff is truly super-duper slick.

[sonofeugene]

Try isopropyl alcohol/rubbing alcohol. I can’t believe it won’t come off.

How thick is the build up?

[gsparesa]

I used 99% rubbing alcohol and it worked! A little elbow grease with the alcohol and it came off nasty. Thanks. I owe you a beer.

I got my beautiful American made hand saw back looking perdy! You just can't find American made hand saws anymore.

[sonofeugene]

I’m glad it worked for you. And I also have some old saws that were my fathers and my grandfather before him.

Next time you want to try tungsten disulfide, use it on metal or plastic rubbing/sliding surfaces. And don’t put too much on. It only takes a film a few microns thick. I have an old 35mm film canister of a mix of the tungsten plus some full synthetic oil. I only use a little bit.