Precision Scope Mounting Tool

[MarikinaMan]

But then you say you are working with a bubble level:



So you are setting the RETICLE vertical and the scope mounted bubble perpendicular to the blumb bob shadow.

That's NOT the same as setting the scope mounted bubble with the rifle being level because the reticle could be off from the scope mechanicals and now you have calibrated your bubble level (which defines HOW you will hold the rifle) to be crooked which means you elevation turret won't track straight up and down.

You are making an assumption that the reticle is level within the mechanics of the scope.

It's more important for the gun to sit level when the scope mounted level is locked down than for the reticle to be plumb because you want the GUN to be level when you fire, regardless of if the reticle is level or not.

"But then you say you are working with a bubble level:" I am not leveling the scope with bubble levels. I used the tool. I did mount a bubble to the scope for preventing cant in the field.

You raised points that I can use to validate the effectiveness of the technique above. I can use a bubble level on the receiver rail to check if the way I adjusted the scope mounted bubble levels the receiver as well. This will verify if the reticle is off, and hence the process will result into a bad mount.

[MarikinaMan]

^^^ Everything checks out.

With the receiver level, the scope top is level, and the scope mounted bubble is level.

From my leveling exercise, I know the scope mounted bubble is aligned to the reticle within a degree.

[MarikinaMan]

This is why bubble levels should be calibrated to the levelled GUN, not the reticle.

A canted reticle would result into a miss if I used the reticle to do a holdover, say at 650 yards? If the reticle isnt square to level, it would be off on windage due to the cant.

How often is a reticle not square to the body of a scope?

It's more important for the gun to sit level when the scope mounted level is locked down than for the reticle to be plumb because you want the GUN to be level when you fire, regardless of if the reticle is level or not.

If the scope is level to the rifle, and fully torqued, and that the reticle is square to the body of the scope, then leveling the scope reticle levels the rifle as well, right?

It is good that you pointed out that the reticle could be canted to the body of the scope. Verifying that the reticle true would be very important.

That last exercise above was able to validate the whole process, and confirm that my reticle is true to the body of the scope.

[MarikinaMan]

At 8:15, Clekner discusses the importance of leveling the rifle when leveling the scope using multiple bubbles, the receiver and the elevation turret cap.

Leveling the receiver is the reference for the rest of that process.

At 8:30, he discusses the process I followed above. He uses feeler gauges, I used the tool.

Here, the reference is the receiver, and squaring the scope body to it. Hence leveling the receiver is not required.

The plumb bob is used to calibrate the scope mounted bubble level, a separate unit, to the reticle, assuming the reticle and the scope body are square.



I picked this up from multiple sources as well.

I believe both methods are just as effective. I've used the previous one for years.

[Sure Shot 45]

I'm really happy with the Wheeler!

https://www.wheelertools.com/scope-mounting/mounting-tools/professional-reticle-leveling-system/119050.html

[ar15barrels]

How often is a reticle not square to the body of a scope?

I don't have accurate statistics to quote you on that, but suffice it to say that it IS a thing I have run into a few times.

If the scope is level to the rifle, and fully torqued, and that the reticle is square to the body of the scope, then leveling the scope reticle levels the rifle as well, right?

Why add the layer uncertainty when you can simply mount the bubble level to the scope with the rifle leveled?
What does projecting the reticle get you other than a chance at uncertainty?
It's EASY to PROVE that the gun is leveled with a LEVEL on the gun.

None of this probably matters if you are using 60moa bubble levels...

[ar15barrels]

Leveling the receiver is the reference for the rest of that process.

Duh.

assuming the reticle and the scope body are square.

That's an assumption that can be removed by mounting the bubble on the scope while the GUN is level INSTEAD of while the reticle is plumb.

[MarikinaMan]

I'm really happy with the Wheeler!

https://www.wheelertools.com/scope-m...em/119050.html

Those are nice.

[MarikinaMan]

Why add the layer uncertainty when you can simply mount the bubble level to the scope with the rifle leveled?
What does projecting the reticle get you other than a chance at uncertainty?
It's EASY to PROVE that the gun is leveled with a LEVEL on the gun.

None of this probably matters if you are using 60moa bubble levels...

I have used the traditional method of leveling the receiver effectively for years.

I just put together my first non-22 cal bolt gun and am trying to build it at a higher level.

The two books Im using to teach myself some basics discusses the tool method I described above and the weaknesses of leveling the scope by placing a bubble level on the elevation turret.

I verified this by testing it on my own rifles. If I spin the turret, the level will change. Hence, I feel the tool method offers a more precise process.

On the projection bit, Ive always used a plum bob to level a scope and adjust a scope mounted level properly. I found the projection method easier than squinting through a scope, keeping it steady while applying a cheek weld and trying to focus my eyes on a string.

I did both and torquing the scope mounted bubble and keeping it level is a lot easier than the other way. Its potentially more accurate too since I am not applying a check weld, and I can measure the shadow of the reticle vs my reference a lot better than looking at a string that moves with a change in the paralax.

The proof is in the pudding though. Ill know if it worked when I actually shoot the rifle at range.

Anyway, I have no equity in this new to me method. It makes sense to me, but I wont know
For sure till I bring it to the range.

[unclerandy]

My review, this device is awesome. Its much more simpler than using two bubble levels to level the rifle and the scope at the same time.

You simply slide it in, and with a flash light, check that there is no light coming through the space between the tool and the scope bottom, start torquing down and youre good to go.

Thanks for the tip about the possibility of getting it stuck. I adjusted the tool every few turn of the ring bolts to make aure I could get it out.

I still need to use a plumb bob to calibrate my scope reticle to the scope mounted bubble level. Thats up next.

Isnt the entire point of the Arisaka to eliminate the levels and plumb bob??

[MarikinaMan]

Isnt the entire point of the Arisaka to eliminate the levels and plumb bob??

Yes. Thats all you need to level the scope. But the Arisaka tool wont help adjust a scope mounted bubble level.

[ar15barrels]

I would do bad things with paint pens if I ran into that level on one of my friend's guns...

[ar15barrels]

Isnt the entire point of the Arisaka to eliminate the levels and plumb bob??

Yes, while mounting the SCOPE, but NOT the rifle level that's used to keep the rifle level while shooting.

Personally, I prefer the level in the stock where I can see it with my strong eye without breaking position.



I glue the bubble into the stock while the gun is leveled so that the glued-in bubble matches a high accuracy level mounted on the top of the scope rail that's one piece with the action.

[Sure Shot 45]

Isnt the entire point of the Arisaka to eliminate the levels and plumb bob??

Yes but the Arisaka kit does not work in all situations.

[ar15barrels]

Yes but the Arisaka kit does not work in all situations.

Exactly.
Try it with round bottom scopes.
Or two piece mounts on actions that are not flat on top.

Also watch out for the country of origin sticker on the flat bottom part of many scopes.