Gun cleaning CLP question ?

[newbie1234]

Wander around the gun shop this morning and saw the CLP gun cleaning solvent. The bottle said : CLEANER, LUBRICANT, PRESERVATIVE.

The way I clean my gun is:
- Apply Hoppe-9
- Brush
- Wipe out the solvent
- Apply a thin coat of oil on the moving parts.
- If the gun to be a "safe queen" then I did not apply oil but apply a thin coat of EEXOZ then let it dry before put it into the safe.

So, if I use the CPL I just need to: Apply CLP, brush, wipe-out and the gun is ready for long time storage ?

[nguyen.h.harry]

I apply, let rest, clean. Then apply oil in necessary parts. Works great for me.


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[baih777]

I guess I am just old school.
I always use oil.

[Yodaman]

I guess I am just old school.

I always use oil.

This [emoji1369]


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[lordmorgul]

[omega]

most military small arms have chrome lined bores, very easy to keep clean

with standard ball ammo, not much fouling / leading, so CLP is good enough

perfect for an AR15

but if your using a lot of reloads with lead bullets, wadcutters, etc, you probably need a better gun cleaner with more solvent

[PyroFox79]

All I use is CLP or similar stuff from a different brand. Right now its Mpro7. That's really all I use on all my guns. Except the Garand fir lubrication, for that I have actual lubriplate. But I will use the clp to clean it.

[tundraboomer]

I've been using Gunzilla and have been very happy with it. However, the next purchase will be a new product called Jeany's Cutting Edge Gun Lube by ZK Performance. Full disclosure, the guy who developed this product is an old friend of mine. Super smart, very active shooter, gunsmith, and California resident and 2A supporter. He swears up and down that this stuff is better than anything out there and knowing his engineering background, where the merits of a product are all that matter, I'm inclined to at least give it a try. He's never steered me wrong. By the way, his biz partner Jeany, is a certified badass, race car driver, and active shooter. They put this product through the paces for a long time before it was released for sale.

https://www.zkperformance.com/products/jeanys-cutting-edge-gun-lube-4oz

[G-forceJunkie]

So, if I use the CPL I just need to: Apply CLP, brush, wipe-out and the gun is ready for long time storage ?

Ya, thats it for pretty much any handgun. Rifles, you may want to used a copper solvent in the bore if copper is building up. Otherwise, nothing but CLP will work 99% of the time. One thing I have noticed after using CLP (a half gallon military jug I bought in 1994 and still am working through) is after a year or two in the safe, the wetness of the lubrication goes away. Its is still oily and I've never had a problem with any corosion, but you would want to add some lube before shooting it. Its not an issue with Glocks that need nearly zero lube, but something like a 1911 that is my experience. A newer product like Slip 2000 also calls itself CLP, but I find it has very little cleaning action. Its fine for wiping out a Glock, but doesn't cut the crud as well as Breakfree or a dedicated solvent. The Impressive thing about Slip 2000 is that is stay on the firearm, wet, after months of storage. It doesnt seem to evaporate like breakfre does after a year. I'm guessing its because is is more of an oil, and has less cleaning solvents to evaporate. My current regimen is to clean with Breakfree, wipe it dry, then apply Slip2000 for lube.
When I was instructing in the 90's, having AR's go dry and start malifunctioning in the middle of classes was not uncommon. The solution was to have a can of the aerosol Breakfree to hose the bolt and action down, cycle the action free it up, and it was good to go. I think having the the solvent in it helps in this situation as it breakups and suspends the crud in a dirty AR action.

[Unbekannt]

In your case I would do as you have been doing but apply Corrosion X as the gun oil.

CLP is a battlefield measure, probably not intended for long term storage.

[Cokebottle]

I guess I am just old school.
I always use oil.

This.
CLP is an all-in-one, and like most all-in-one products, it does all things "marginally acceptably"... it is not the best.
Hoppe's solvent followed by oil with a light grease on the rails is best for most guns unless additional oxidation protection (live near the beach) is needed.

[Full Clip]

If you want longer-term protection for safe queens and storage: CLP Collector

[f308gt4]

I add an extra step, which keeps my guns sparkly clean. Apply CLP (in my case, I’m using Mpro7), brush, then use brake cleaner to spray out all the crap. Then oil as needed.

Maybe an unnecessary step, but I like using brake cleaner to really get everything out.

[lordmorgul]

Carb cleaner will leave fewer deposits. But they are both very harsh and toxic on you and make anything non-metallic they come into contact with brittle, rubbers and plastics especially.


Andrew - Lancaster, CA
NRA Life Member, Calguns.net contributor, CGF / SAF / CRPA / FPC / NRA-ILA contributor, USCCA member

[tanks]

Bore brush.
Brush the slide and frame.
BRAKE CLEANER
Wipe with patches and Q-tips to verify crud is gone.
Oil and assemble.