Reinforcing floor for large safe?

[damngato]

Need some help. We just purchased a home built in 1964 which has wood floors and a crawl space. I am looking to move a 1500-2100 pound safe inside and need help figuring out if I need to reinforce the floor (I assume I do) and what is the best way to go about this. I am looking to install it at an intersection of 2 outside walls.

How would you recommend going about this? Am I correct is assuming it needs to be reinforced? The crawl space is pretty small, may be difficult to get down there but I haven't tried yet.

If I have to hire someone to do this does anyone have recommendations? Also, any rough estimate of cost?

Thanks in advance for your help

[five.five-six]

assuming it's peer and beam construction, you could just support it with a jack or two like they use for Mobil estates. I might have it set first and hols drilled so you contractor can hold the nuts while you tighten the bolts.

You could use something like this

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/aluminum-stack-jacks-set-of-2/4204&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&scid=scplp4204&sc_intid=4204?utm_campaign=SC_Shopping_High&affiliateid=6313&gclid=CjwKEAjw-LLKBRCdhqmwtYmX93kSJAAORDM6u7RHBAet9BdzUULcZfoW9yVRXIuYcaBHHeRy9phNphoCRvrw_wcB

A licensed bonded contractor deserves a few hundred bucks to come out and preform the work. You can probably get a licenced handy man for less.

[Dutch3]

Another option would be to build piers like they used to for mobile homes before the requirement for 'permanent foundations'.

Under the floor joist(s) needing additional support;

A 24" length of pressure treated 2x12 on the grade.

Cinder blocks dry-stacked on top of that, to reach within a few inches of the bottom of the joist.

Another piece of PT 2x12 on top of those, then two wooden wedges on top of that 2x12, driven in from opposite directions until the whole stack is tight from the ground to the floor joist. Pretty low-cost and low-tech.

Also available are precast concrete bases about 24" square with a metal screw jack assembly attached to the top as used in more modern mobile home setups. Would likely be faster and easier, but I have no idea of the cost.

[damngato]

Thanks guys!

So if I can get down there (I'm not claustrophobic but damn it is small down there from what I remember) would something like this work for the base(once I flattened out the dirt):

http://www.homedepot.com/p/8-3-4-in-x-10-3-4-in-x-10-3-4-in-Concrete-Pier-Block-100014754/100321948

and then use these guys:

https://smile.amazon.com/Vestil-FJB-16-Basement-Floor-Jack/dp/B0052PLEOY/ref=pd_sim_60_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0052PLEOY&pd_rd_r=1S04EJECFD191S96V67Z&pd_rd_w=vi7oU&pd_rd_wg=utktJ&psc=1&refRID=1S04EJECFD191S96V67Z

with a pressure treated 2x12 at the top spanning as many joists as possible?

If so, how many of these set ups would you recommend? If I can fit 3 in that corner that should do the ticket, right?

Thanks guys, glad I lost some weight recently or no chance I fit in that hole (giggity)

[M1NM]

Don't put any wood on the ground. Cinder blocks on their side and wood to take up the gap - pressure treated isn't necessary. Figure out which joists it will be sitting on and support those. 18-24" spacing should be fine. Wiggle your way in and then drag the materials in with a rope have a friend feed you the stuff - unless he's smaller than you then Huck Finn him into doing the job for you.

[Rodell]

No wood = no termite problems.

[Red-Osier]

pier blocks and, PT 4x4 posts under the joists.

[lakersfan]

You can make your own concrete foundations and install some brackets that accepts a 4x4.

[pacrat]

OP, first things first.

Yes, a safe that heavy will require some sub area reinforcement for the joists.

Arming yourself with info prior to project is good idea.

First, look through the sub area vents in your foundation, using a bright light, both sides of the outside corner the safe will be in. Best done in the dark of night. So your eyes can see into the sub area better.

Determine which way the joists run, in relation to how the safe will stand. That will also give you a view of vertical clearance, and tell you which is the floor load bearing wall. The ENDS of the joist support the floor. The wall that runs parallel with the joists only support the wall.

Your joist will either be on 16" centers, [most likely] or 24" centers, [less likely]. This can also be determined when you look through vents.

How to best proceed will be determined by the info you gain from this peek into the dark.

Get back with this info, and I can advise you how I would proceed with the project. I'm retired after 30 yrs in United Brotherhood of Carpenters doing residential construction. Who also has a 1,200# safe on raised foundation in "middle of house" for over 40 yrs with no floor sagging.

JM2c

[baih777]

Those blocks could work.
I would not buy those jacks yet, till you get underneath to measure.

Thanks guys!

So if I can get down there (I'm not claustrophobic but damn it is small down there from what I remember) would something like this work for the base(once I flattened out the dirt):

http://www.homedepot.com/p/8-3-4-in-x-10-3-4-in-x-10-3-4-in-Concrete-Pier-Block-100014754/100321948

and then use these guys:

https://smile.amazon.com/Vestil-FJB-16-Basement-Floor-Jack/dp/B0052PLEOY/ref=pd_sim_60_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0052PLEOY&pd_rd_r=1S04EJECFD191S96V67Z&pd_rd_w=vi7oU&pd_rd_wg=utktJ&psc=1&refRID=1S04EJECFD191S96V67Z

with a pressure treated 2x12 at the top spanning as many joists as possible?

If so, how many of these set ups would you recommend? If I can fit 3 in that corner that should do the ticket, right?

Thanks guys, glad I lost some weight recently or no chance I fit in that hole (giggity)

[homelessdude]

Important measurement. You said it was tight under there . The concrete piers you showed are about a foot tall and the jacks you showed are twelve to sixteen inches tall. This means your crawl space will need to be about two foot tall. That's not very tight as crawl spaces go. You should measure the bottom of the floor joists to the ground and see how much room you have. If it is close you can bury part of the pier. Another option is pull up the floor in the corner and block out the floor joists. Then pour a concrete pad for the safe. Works well if the crawlspace is to small to get into. My house was built in 1928 and half the crawlspace is only about ten or twelve inches high. If it is tight you can use the piers but stack another board on it instead of the jack. Use a bottle jack to raise the joist just enough to get the board between the pier and the joist. HIH

[John Browning]

If you try this as a DIY, you will be paying for repairs and upgrades. Get a contractor. Make sure that they are licensed and that you get at least two bids/estimates from different guys. Your floor most likely won't tolerate that live load as you move it in place. 1500 pounds is a lot. You sure it's that heavy?

[homelessdude]

Seven 200 pd. guys in your living room equals almost 1500 lbs. Floors hold more weight than you realize. Bet most of you never had a guest at one of your crowded parties fall threw your floor. Lay some plywood on the floor when you move it to spread the load out. If you wheel it over any floor tile I would lay two layers of plywood. Half or three quarters not the thin stuff. If your not handy with construction you might want to hire someone. A safe that size could kill you if someone screws up.

[numpty]

Remove your floor finish and plywood and build from above. There will be no unknowns and you'll probably do it quicker and better than if you try and crawl under there to do it. (depending on the finish I guess)

Four small "footings" with CMU piers, and two treated 4x4's perpendicular to the floor joists should do it. Add some blocking to replace the flooring and you're good to go. Remember to add some termite shields on top of the CMU piers. You could double up the joists between the two 4xs to be really safe.

[pacrat]

Seven 200 pd. guys in your living room equals almost 1500 lbs. Floors hold more weight than you realize. Bet most of you never had a guest at one of your crowded parties fall threw your floor. Lay some plywood on the floor when you move it to spread the load out. If you wheel it over any floor tile I would lay two layers of plywood. Half or three quarters not the thin stuff. If your not handy with construction you might want to hire someone. A safe that size could kill you if someone screws up.

If the same seven 200# guys stood on the same 6 Sq ft of floor for years on end. That would be the longest bromance group hug in history.

It's not about "total weight" involved. It's about weight distribution, and permanent load factors on the structure.