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Yuppers, that's good stuff.
Yeah, featherweight from the mid to late 40s. Very cool.
Of note, make sure that firing pin on the right barrel isn't stuck. If it's stuck, and protruding like that, and you load it, you can touch off a round when you close the action.
If it's stuck, it may be that it's not cocking. There are two pieces on the front of the frame that are responsible for cocking the hammer, if they don't both look the same (that is, both down or up, I can't remember off the top of my head) then the hammer is down on the right barrel for some reason. Remember, these guns should be cocked before you pull the fore end off for disassembly. If it's not cocked (both sides) it can be difficult to pull the fore end off, sometimes causing you to rip the screws that hold the iron to the wood right out of the wood part.
Also, don't dry fire this shotgun, always use snap caps, or at least a fired hull.
How's the wear look on the barrels? I see that the bluing is mostly worn off off the right barrel near the frame (usually from carrying it). I would expect that the bluing would also be mostly worn through near the fore end as well (your'e supposed to wrap your hand around the barrels with splinter fore ends, though not with beavertails) and I would expect a fair amount of wear on one of the barrels near the muzzle as well (again, from carrying).
Yeah, featherweight from the mid to late 40s. Very cool.
Of note, make sure that firing pin on the right barrel isn't stuck. If it's stuck, and protruding like that, and you load it, you can touch off a round when you close the action.
If it's stuck, it may be that it's not cocking. There are two pieces on the front of the frame that are responsible for cocking the hammer, if they don't both look the same (that is, both down or up, I can't remember off the top of my head) then the hammer is down on the right barrel for some reason. Remember, these guns should be cocked before you pull the fore end off for disassembly. If it's not cocked (both sides) it can be difficult to pull the fore end off, sometimes causing you to rip the screws that hold the iron to the wood right out of the wood part.
Also, don't dry fire this shotgun, always use snap caps, or at least a fired hull.
How's the wear look on the barrels? I see that the bluing is mostly worn off off the right barrel near the frame (usually from carrying it). I would expect that the bluing would also be mostly worn through near the fore end as well (your'e supposed to wrap your hand around the barrels with splinter fore ends, though not with beavertails) and I would expect a fair amount of wear on one of the barrels near the muzzle as well (again, from carrying).
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