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Rattle Can to prevent 870 Express Rust?

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  • nrakid88
    Veteran Member
    • Jul 2008
    • 3285

    Rattle Can to prevent 870 Express Rust?

    I have a year old Remington 870. My father passed his acidic sweaty palms down to me, and even though I try very hard to prevent rust, my 870 finally got some surface rust around the loading gate on the bottom of the receiver. I got some solvents, and it wiped off, but thats just rediculous it would rust so easy as I have dessicants in the safe.

    So, I want to fix the problem Remington won't address, in a cheap way, just like they would address it lol. I don't want to spend for duracoat, so who here thinks I should rattle can it? I would use Krylon Camoflauge ultra matte, and probably make it camo patterned.

    My main question is, if I clean the gun with solvents, then use alcohol to get the oil off the finish so the paint will stick, will the gun metal rust underneath the Krylon spray paint?
    sigpic
    5.56 vs. 308? http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/s...d.php?t=267737
    Originally posted by Cali-Shooter
    You are not a mall ninja. You are a defender of mall ninjas.
  • #2
    FatalKitty
    Veteran Member
    • Apr 2010
    • 2942

    to answer your questions

    it will hold up if applied properly - however, it is not near as durable as cerakote or duracoat. not even close.
    it will not rust under the krylon
    you don't rise to the occasion,
    you just fall back on your level of training.

    Comment

    • #3
      aippi
      Senior Member
      • Jun 2009
      • 2302

      Not sure about the rust issue as I have gotten painted guns in that were painted over the matte finish and it did rust under the paint. Duracoat recommends you parkerize the weapon before you paint it. I don't paint guns and no longer accept painted guns in for rebuild so I don't know a lot about this. Just wanted to share that yes, I have found rust under paint jobs on the matte finish 870's. It may be a failure to prep the surface correctly or just the issue of the applied matte finish not being a suitable surface for painting. Others who do paint guns may pipe in with more info but if they say that the matte finish can not rust under paint, they are wrong.
      JD McGuire, Owner
      AI&P Tactical
      Remington Law Enforcement Armorer
      Mossberg LE Armorer
      www.aiptactical.com
      www.tacticalgunslings.com
      If you're going to a gun fight, take a shotgun. If you can't take a shotgun, don't go.

      Comment

      • #4
        wu_dot_com
        Senior Member
        • Feb 2010
        • 1362

        Originally posted by aippi
        Not sure about the rust issue as I have gotten painted guns in that were painted over the matte finish and it did rust under the paint. Duracoat recommends you parkerize the weapon before you paint it. I don't paint guns and no longer accept painted guns in for rebuild so I don't know a lot about this. Just wanted to share that yes, I have found rust under paint jobs on the matte finish 870's. It may be a failure to prep the surface correctly or just the issue of the applied matte finish not being a suitable surface for painting. Others who do paint guns may pipe in with more info but if they say that the matte finish can not rust under paint, they are wrong.
        very true. to properly paint any metal surface for rust prevention. you must clean the surface so its free of rust. if any preexisting rust was not remove regardless of its size, the rust will grow over time under the paint. i have seen many metal pin hole rusted through under even epoxy coating due to preexisting rust.

        to do this, you must sand off all expose surfaces to bear metal. power wash in DI water to remove all free particles. bake dry in a low particle count chamber. wipe down bear surfaces with alcohol. apply primer then paint.

        now if you are going to do all this, i rather just sand and polish all external surfaces then hot blue it. the passivization conversion coating will provide better coverage because the passivated occurs on a microscopic level. rather than the paint, the metallic crystal salt from bluing will cover the surfaces with no gap like paint.

        Comment

        • #5
          G-forceJunkie
          Calguns Addict
          • Jul 2010
          • 6336

          How about having it bead blasted and parkerized? Could be done for nearly free at an Ak build party.

          Comment

          • #6
            bucktooth7
            Member
            • Feb 2010
            • 311

            You could paint it I suppose, and probably ruin it, sounds like alot of work for the prep. I gave my 870 a coating of EEZOX 6 months ago and no sign of rust yet. I shoot it every weekend, clean it good and keep an eye on it. EEZOX at Cabels's or Midway USA.
            We will do as we will do because I am me and you are you.

            Comment

            • #7
              nrakid88
              Veteran Member
              • Jul 2008
              • 3285

              Originally posted by wu_dot_com

              now if you are going to do all this, i rather just sand and polish all external surfaces then hot blue it. the passivization conversion coating will provide better coverage because the passivated occurs on a microscopic level. rather than the paint, the metallic crystal salt from bluing will cover the surfaces with no gap like paint.
              What is the process for hot blueing? Is it something I could do at home? Also I have read about boiling a blue being done at home for small parts, is this the same thing?

              If hot blueing can't be done at home, I think I will have to go to CSACANNONEER's next build party to park my 870. Damn remington for being so cheap.
              sigpic
              5.56 vs. 308? http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/s...d.php?t=267737
              Originally posted by Cali-Shooter
              You are not a mall ninja. You are a defender of mall ninjas.

              Comment

              • #8
                Killawhale415
                Senior Member
                • Oct 2009
                • 1118

                Hot blueing at home is a great option and youll learn how to do it yourself for possible future projects, but the components can add up quickly.

                Sending your gun out to a pro to get it duracoated cerakoated or even blued might be a better idea as you mayend up saving some dough.
                Missionspec camo and airbrush armory are some good people to talk to.
                Name: Dobalina, Mr.Bob Dobalina
                Originally posted by kielbasavw
                There's a reason why the feds stopped using the 10mm it went right through the enemy every time, so they moved to the .40.
                Originally posted by walter
                I was at Calguns before you

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                • #9
                  jeffrice6
                  Calguns Addict
                  • Jan 2006
                  • 5165

                  For an express I would just leave & oil...... Good blaster with a bad finish! For the price of refinishing you could buy another. Its Remington's cheap gauge, take it for what it is.
                  WTB: S&W 617 4" 10 shot Pre-Lock

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    bootless
                    Member
                    • Jul 2009
                    • 204

                    +1 on EEZOX! This stuff it great and it is used just like any gun oil. I got it from midwayusa because of the same issue on an 870 Express. Just coat it on, let it sit and cure, and wipe of any extra. I haven't had a problem since. It's cheap enough to give it a try.

                    Comment

                    • #11
                      Jeffy
                      Member
                      • Jan 2003
                      • 460

                      Originally posted by G-forceJunkie
                      How about having it bead blasted and parkerized? Could be done for nearly free at an Ak build party.
                      I like this idea best. Although I'd probably be lazy and just oil it and leave it in a silicone impregnated Gun Sock.

                      Comment

                      • #12
                        nrakid88
                        Veteran Member
                        • Jul 2008
                        • 3285

                        Originally posted by jeffrice6
                        For an express I would just leave & oil...... Good blaster with a bad finish! For the price of refinishing you could buy another. Its Remington's cheap gauge, take it for what it is.
                        Maybe I will let the finish slowly degrade over the years into a rust, and maybe it'll build a nice patina over the decades... Hmm... I think the parkerizing is still the best option.
                        sigpic
                        5.56 vs. 308? http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/s...d.php?t=267737
                        Originally posted by Cali-Shooter
                        You are not a mall ninja. You are a defender of mall ninjas.

                        Comment

                        • #13
                          swerv512
                          Veteran Member
                          • Mar 2006
                          • 3076

                          after reading this thread i went down to the safe and pulled out my 870Express that hadnt been touched in over a year and guess what i found....no rust! long story short is i stayed up late giving it a thorough dousing of brake-free before i put it away and into a bore store just to be on the safe side. it's a 26" express vented rib model. i'm thinking of selling it to get a 887 but i'm still in love with 870s....

                          Comment

                          • #14
                            sd_shooter
                            I need a LIFE!!
                            • Dec 2008
                            • 13887

                            I have an IAC 982, no rust yet. Either it's better than an 870 or my method of keeping it rust free is effective, you choose.

                            Method:
                            1) Use a goldenrod in the safe, no desiccants
                            2) Use CLP on exterior parts during cleaning
                            3) Wipe down with a silicon cloth before putting it away
                            4) Keep the gun in a silicon gun sock even while in the safe. It keeps off the fingerprints and prevents rust.

                            Comment

                            • #15
                              Just-in
                              Senior Member
                              • Feb 2010
                              • 2176

                              keep it oily and call it a day has been my take on it.
                              I'd love to have mine blued but if it's going to cost as much as a new gun nevermind haha

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