BenelLI m4

[esskay]

I guess it depends what u shot...i experienced some nice recoil (ouch type)

What sort of loads did you find uncomfortable? I've shot full power 2 3/4" slugs out of an M4 with no problems, though from prone it starts to suck!

[rolly]

What sort of loads did you find uncomfortable? I've shot full power 2 3/4" slugs out of an M4 with no problems, though from prone it starts to suck!

it was some slugs ...i was just wearing tshirt

[gamma105]

congrats!!! I was at Turner's a few hours ago, and checked out the M4, it has a recoil reducing stock on it? well that's what the manager showed me.... for some weird reason, that M4 felt better in my hands better than the 870 or 590A1, AND it's on sale, I'm reaaaally tempted now lol

[esskay]

congrats!!! I was at Turner's a few hours ago, and checked out the M4, it has a recoil reducing stock on it? well that's what the manager showed me.... for some weird reason, that M4 felt better in my hands better than the 870 or 590A1, AND it's on sale, I'm reaaaally tempted now lol

Are you thinking of the Benelli M2? The M2 is available with a recoil reducing stock (called the ComforTech IIRC). The M4 is not.

[gamma105]

Are you thinking of the Benelli M2? The M2 is available with a recoil reducing stock (called the ComforTech IIRC). The M4 is not.

the one she handed to me was the M4, because I actually checked the tag on it. And she showed me the stock has some markings on it, and said see, this one has the recoil reducing stock, unlike that M2 on the shelf lol well I'm not familiar with both, so maybe she's wrong? I'll have to call them tomorrow to double check!

[esskay]

the one she handed to me was the M4, because I actually checked the tag on it. And she showed me the stock has some markings on it, and said see, this one has the recoil reducing stock, unlike that M2 on the shelf lol well I'm not familiar with both, so maybe she's wrong? I'll have to call them tomorrow to double check!

Here is the Benelli site, M4 is not offered with recoil reducing stocks:

http://www.benelliusa.com/shotguns/benelli_m4.php

Info on the ComforTech stock system:

http://www.benelliusa.com/innovations/comfortech_system.php

[gamma105]

Here is the Benelli site, M4 is not offered with recoil reducing stocks:

http://www.benelliusa.com/shotguns/benelli_m4.php

Info on the ComforTech stock system:
http://www.benelliusa.com/innovation...ech_system.php

I just read those too lol hmmm... so maybe they put the wrong tag on it? I hope someone will catch that before they take home a M2 for the price of a M4

[vf111]

The wait for Kip's titanium tubes (CarrierComp) is currently down to a few weeks since he has made the move to his new production facility. Hands down the best tube available. As far as 922r I've written to and received a response from the BATFE Chief of Firearms Technology Division. As long as you replace 3 of the 13 specific parts that they consider the Benelli to be comprised of you'll be legal.

U.S. made full length mag tube (like CarrierComp)

U.S. made mag follower (like Brownells)

U.S made forend (Surefire M80 or KZ)

and you'll be good to go. When Mesa tactical comes out with their reduced L.O.P. pistol grip stock in a few months it will provide more option as far as what parts to replace.(you could keep your OEM forend grips)

Take Care,

Hookster

Sweet - I was wondering how I was going to install my tube from SocomGuy. Forgot about the upcoming Mesa stock....BTW, anyone know which way the mag tube threads? I know I need to heat it w/ a heat gun to loosen up the Locktite Benelli uses.....

[hookster]

Lefty loosey, righy tighty

Here's my 922r compliant baby with Carriercomp titanium tube installed



Here's a copy of Carriercomps tube removal/installation instructions:

Tools required;
> Heat gun.(Refrain from using flame devices, torches, etc., they are overkill and have the potential of discoloring the finish on the receiver)
> Snap ring pliers.
>Stiff nylon or brass bristled tooth-brush, Q-tips and acetone.
> Rubber grip pad. (Similar to a jar lid gripper, or even a piece of tire inner tube)
>Padded vise. (not required but helpful if done alone without an assistant)

Before proceeding please ensure the firearm is completely unloaded, clear mag tube and chamber, firearm on safe.

Lock the bolt to the rear, then remove the factory barrel nut (by hand), set the barrel, bolt group, and handguards to the side. Using snap ring pliers set to compress when gripped, carefully remove the spring retainer from the end of the factory mag tube, (keep it aimed away from your face, with your other hand over the end so that the spring can be safely contained when it is "set free"). Then tilt the gun downwards, allowing the spring and follower to fall out. Place gun in a lightly clamped padded vise (ensuring the bolt release button is not clamped), between your knees, or in the hands of a competent assistant. Using the heat gun set to a maximum 400 F, apply direct heat to the full circumference of the mag tube where it meets the receiver, allowing heat to reach the receiver as well, continue rotating the heat around the junction until the two are beyond unbearable to touch (using an infra-red thermometer if available, you will typically see results when the receiver temp nears 250F), favor application of heat to the receiver, as it retains heat more efficiently. At that temp (around 250F) you should be able to begin twisting the factory tube off [ccw](here's where the rubber grip pad does double duty as a heat shield, and provides much better grip than bare hands). Do not use a pipe wrench for a few reasons, 1st it will damage your factory tube, but foremost it will provide excessive torque that may allow you to force removal before the loc-tite is ready to let go. Once it starts to turn, the battle is won, just keep it turning until it is free. Next clean the internal threads with acetone, Q-tips, and the nylon or brass tooth brush. It will look scary at 1st since the residue from the factory loc-tite is chalky white, but once you have it all cleaned off, you should be looking at the pristine black anodized receiver threads where the old tube use to be. You are now ready to install your replacement tube. Don't forget to transfer the handguard's stamped steel rear brace onto the new tube BEFORE threading it into the receiver, it is a "captured part" that has to be in place during assembly. Most people opt to fore-go the use of loc-tite, simply torqing in their new tube as tight as can be done by hand. If you use loc-tite, make sure you check the data sheet, and select a grade that can be heated for removal with LOW HEAT like the factory used. Typically just a drop of medium strength Loc-Tite brand "blue" will be sufficient if you use any at all. Replace all the remaining components, and enjoy!!
__________________


Happy New Year,

Hookster

[vf111]

Lefty loosey, righy tighty

Here's my 922r compliant baby with Carriercomp titanium tube installed



Here's a copy of Carriercomps tube removal/installation instructions:

Tools required;
> Heat gun.(Refrain from using flame devices, torches, etc., they are overkill and have the potential of discoloring the finish on the receiver)
> Snap ring pliers.
>Stiff nylon or brass bristled tooth-brush, Q-tips and acetone.
> Rubber grip pad. (Similar to a jar lid gripper, or even a piece of tire inner tube)
>Padded vise. (not required but helpful if done alone without an assistant)

Before proceeding please ensure the firearm is completely unloaded, clear mag tube and chamber, firearm on safe.

Lock the bolt to the rear, then remove the factory barrel nut (by hand), set the barrel, bolt group, and handguards to the side. Using snap ring pliers set to compress when gripped, carefully remove the spring retainer from the end of the factory mag tube, (keep it aimed away from your face, with your other hand over the end so that the spring can be safely contained when it is "set free"). Then tilt the gun downwards, allowing the spring and follower to fall out. Place gun in a lightly clamped padded vise (ensuring the bolt release button is not clamped), between your knees, or in the hands of a competent assistant. Using the heat gun set to a maximum 400 F, apply direct heat to the full circumference of the mag tube where it meets the receiver, allowing heat to reach the receiver as well, continue rotating the heat around the junction until the two are beyond unbearable to touch (using an infra-red thermometer if available, you will typically see results when the receiver temp nears 250F), favor application of heat to the receiver, as it retains heat more efficiently. At that temp (around 250F) you should be able to begin twisting the factory tube off [ccw](here's where the rubber grip pad does double duty as a heat shield, and provides much better grip than bare hands). Do not use a pipe wrench for a few reasons, 1st it will damage your factory tube, but foremost it will provide excessive torque that may allow you to force removal before the loc-tite is ready to let go. Once it starts to turn, the battle is won, just keep it turning until it is free. Next clean the internal threads with acetone, Q-tips, and the nylon or brass tooth brush. It will look scary at 1st since the residue from the factory loc-tite is chalky white, but once you have it all cleaned off, you should be looking at the pristine black anodized receiver threads where the old tube use to be. You are now ready to install your replacement tube. Don't forget to transfer the handguard's stamped steel rear brace onto the new tube BEFORE threading it into the receiver, it is a "captured part" that has to be in place during assembly. Most people opt to fore-go the use of loc-tite, simply torqing in their new tube as tight as can be done by hand. If you use loc-tite, make sure you check the data sheet, and select a grade that can be heated for removal with LOW HEAT like the factory used. Typically just a drop of medium strength Loc-Tite brand "blue" will be sufficient if you use any at all. Replace all the remaining components, and enjoy!!
__________________


Happy New Year,

Hookster

SWEET - so it turns to the left as I'm looking "down the barrel" I take it......

[hookster]

SWEET - so it turns to the left as I'm looking "down the barrel" I take it......

correct!

[hookster]

Hey vf111,
I just thought I'd add that I didn't use a vise when I did mine. I just sat on a low bench and held the receiver between my knees while turning. After about 12 minutes of heating it turned a little. Ater that it went: heat for a while/turn a little, heat for a while/turn a little till it was about halfway unscrewed then the last half unscrewed in one shot.

Later,
Hookster