10/22 Mods

[sholling]

Those are pretty.

What stock is that on the bottom rifle?

It's a Revolution Trailblazer in American Walnut. They're available for standard or bull (.920) barrels.

http://www.shootersdiscount.com/cart/index.php?_a=viewCat&catId=57

Super stock? Is this a legitimate class at compitions?

I don't think so but I don't know for sure. It's more about building what the hotrod world calls a "sleeper", like a Volkswagen Bug with a V8 where the backseat used to be . I built mine in honor of my late father using his rifle because he didn't like wild looking rifles but it's as accurate as anything you can build for the money. I probably have about $300-350 into not counting the scope ($220) and the original rifle. I have other more exotic builds but this one is a good fun and accurate 22. Anyway Rimfirecentral as a group for Superstocks.

[Kodachrome]

How about cleaning your barrel? Do you use a Delrin rod guide?
Fits muzzle end as not to mess with the crown of barrel.
Some have drilled the back of the receiver so one can clean from breech end instead of muzzle end.
Just a better way to keep the barrel as accurate as possible.

Happy shooting



This is a Voting Year!

[003]

The one mod that made the biggest difference for me was having the chamber recut and barrel set back. Check out this link to Connecticut Prescision Chambering
http://www.ct-precision.com/ for specific information on what was done and how they do it. Major improvement in the size of the groups. .5 MOA all day long with standard ammunition - - better using high grade target ammunition. Very reasonable cost for what you get.

A direct quote from their web site: " Ruger 10/22 barrels are cut with a standard SAAMI .22 reamer which cuts .062" too deep. Production speed machine reaming often leaves burrs in throat and chambers not concentric to bore. Aftermarket barrels have tighter, shorter chambers (sometimes too tight) than the SAAMI print but seldom short or concentric enough for maximum accuracy."

"CPC designs its own reamers for the 10/22 called CPC Freebore chamber for ideal function and accuracy. Setback is .187" to .250" on breech end. The newly cut area on barrel shank is oversize for a 'line to line' tight fit into the receiver stabilizing the two parts. A steel spacer is cut and hand fit into the barrel lockdown cut to insure proper retightening. CPC fits a reamer pilot to the exact bore size and re-reams each barrel by hand. New chamber throat and crowns are cut concentric to bore within .0002"."

"Customer results at 50 yards: .25 to .56."

[jbush]

I've heard CPC does a great job of making a factory barrel accurate. Bolt buffer is cheap and stops the metal to metal wear and noise. Could float the barrel and add a pressure pad and still keep the stock look. Problem with a 10/22 is you can go crazy with upgrades as long as your wallet can stand it. Try a Power Custom hammer, will make a big difference, without a ton of expense. Good luck, I had 1 tricked out 10/22 and 1 stock with just a buffer and power customs trigger parts, like then both, but one I plink with and 1 shoots off the bench at paper only. Check out rimfirecentral.com, tons of tips and tricks, just don't get caught up in their Kidd products mentality, there's alot of cheaper alternatives.

[JNunez23]

RimfireCentral will answer ALL the questions that might pop up. I joined yesterday and am loving all the knowledge they provide on 10/22 alone. Great site.

[theduece]

How about cleaning your barrel? Do you use a Delrin rod guide?
Fits muzzle end as not to mess with the crown of barrel.
Some have drilled the back of the receiver so one can clean from breech end instead of muzzle end.
Just a better way to keep the barrel as accurate as possible.

Happy shooting



This is a Voting Year!

I use a boresnake for cleaning. So far so good, no issues with it.

The one mod that made the biggest difference for me was having the chamber recut and barrel set back. Check out this link to Connecticut Prescision Chambering
http://www.ct-precision.com/ for specific information on what was done and how they do it. Major improvement in the size of the groups. .5 MOA all day long with standard ammunition - - better using high grade target ammunition. Very reasonable cost for what you get.

A direct quote from their web site: " Ruger 10/22 barrels are cut with a standard SAAMI .22 reamer which cuts .062" too deep. Production speed machine reaming often leaves burrs in throat and chambers not concentric to bore. Aftermarket barrels have tighter, shorter chambers (sometimes too tight) than the SAAMI print but seldom short or concentric enough for maximum accuracy."

"CPC designs its own reamers for the 10/22 called CPC Freebore chamber for ideal function and accuracy. Setback is .187" to .250" on breech end. The newly cut area on barrel shank is oversize for a 'line to line' tight fit into the receiver stabilizing the two parts. A steel spacer is cut and hand fit into the barrel lockdown cut to insure proper retightening. CPC fits a reamer pilot to the exact bore size and re-reams each barrel by hand. New chamber throat and crowns are cut concentric to bore within .0002"."

"Customer results at 50 yards: .25 to .56."

VERY INTERESTING..... hahaha perfect stock looking rifle with one hole groups.

[theduece]

RimfireCentral will answer ALL the questions that might pop up. I joined yesterday and am loving all the knowledge they provide on 10/22 alone. Great site.

Yeah there is a ton of info over at rfc, I am a member there also but I am always here and I am sure there are a ton of members here with a ton of good info also.

[JNunez23]

I agree, nice to have various sources of info. They have a whole section dedicated to 10/22's.

[BayouBullets]

1. Scope. If you aren't using the picatinny version of the scope mount, get it. If you are already using a picatinny rail, then either your rings are bad, screws need proper torque, or screws need replacing. Any possibility you stretched the screws at some point? Did you degrease before installing? You shouldn't need any loc-tite if a ring has been mounted properly.
2. I noticed you did a "trigger job." Did you already replace the pins with a tighter set? Once you've finished polishing sear engagement, that's a pretty cheap upgrade that will help at the margins. Makes it a pain to work on it frequently once done, however. So finish final stoning of surfaces beforehand.
3. I think the bolt buffer is very helpful for little cost. It will decrease vibration on the mounts (not that you'll need it with a properly installed scope). More importantly, it will aid you, the shooter, in maintaining groups when shooting at speed.

[Solid Foundation]

If you decide to keep the scope I'd say an extended bolt handle. It doesn't change the appearance too much and it'll save you a few scratched knuckles.



vs




Sorry for the huge pictures!

[xounlistedxox]

Best mods I've done to mine by far are a green mountain barrel(stinger chamber) with hogue stock to allow the barrel to free float. Shoots about 1/2 dime sized groups at 25 yards with any bulk ammo. Other then that polish trigger components, extended mag release, auto bolt release, recoil buffer etc. Im using the $30 walmart tasco scope and it shoots exceptional. I couldnt be happier with it.

[DesertSniper]

i have $1038.44 in my 10/22 and nothing to extreme either... its easy to get carried away with this little gun...

[DuneShoot]

Can someone explain a few terms you're using?

What's float the barrel? And why is it good.

Bed the stock?

Also on bolt work, I have been reading about it and wondering how does it actually help shooting? Here is one guy's list of what he does to bolts: https://sites.google.com/site/custom...welingservice/


Triggers-Is there a big difference in buying a KIDD trigger group rather than having Brimstone rework your OEM trigger?

[003]

Float the barrel or having a “free floated” barrel simply means that no part of the stock or forearm touches the barrel. The barrel is connected to the receiver and no place else. It helps in accuracy because no part of the stock is putting pressure on the barrel. A generation of so back when the just about all stocks were made of wood, temp and humidity differences would cause wood to swell or warp and then put pressure on the barrel causing very slight movement.

[sholling]

Can someone explain a few terms you're using?

What's float the barrel? And why is it good.

Free floating the barrel creates a space between the barrel and the stock. It's done with centerfire rifles because barrel heat and/or humidity can swell the stock and the barrel contacting the stock can lead to the top and bottom of the barrel heating up at different rates - both of which can change point of impact. It's far-far-far less important and not always desirable with a rimfire because the barrel doesn't get that hot. In fact sometimes a pressure pad under the barrel helps a 10/22. It's one of those things you can experiment with to see what works best for your rifle.

Note that most plastic stocks flex so much that free floating is a must to prevent stock flex from pushing the barrel up or side to side thus shifting point of impact. That's why I don't recommend anything but wood, laminated wood or the very most expensive reinforced plastic stocks for precision shooting. Laminated wood is very ridged and temperature/humidity stable.

Bed the stock?

Bedding the receiver is a process where you use an epoxy type filler between the wood of the stock and the receiver to keep the receiver from moving in the stock. Note that you are not gluing the receiver in place, merely removing 99% of the slop between receiver and stock. This (and/or bedding the barrel) can be especially important with a 10/22 because the receiver is only held in place with a single screw which with nothing else holding it can allow the action to pivot from side to side. Ruger relies on the barrel band to prevent pivoting. Bedding takes a bit of time but isn't all that hard to do and there are a ton of how-to youtubes on the subject. Just be careful because with the shape of the 10/22's receiver it's somewhat easy to accidentally make it non-removable.

Bedding the barrel is a technique where you use an epoxy type filler to create a pressure pad under about 1-1.5" of the barrel. Basically this is the opposite of free-floating the barrel. The best location varies from rifle to rifle which is why it's best to try several location using rubber pads before using epoxy. Sometimes just the addition of a thin rubber pad is enough to solve a problem.

The third type of bedding is pillar bedding which places aluminum inserts under the receiver - around the takedown screw. This keeps the receiver from being pulled into the wood or plastic of the stock and creates a more consistent point of impact. Volquartsen makes a pillar bedding kit ($30) that includes the pillar, a drill bit to install the pillar, and a couple of pressure pads.

Also on bolt work, I have been reading about it and wondering how does it actually help shooting?

Bolt work is one of the least cost-effective modifications. Trigger work or trigger group replacement makes a huge difference and so does installing a better barrel. After you've done everything else having the bolt reworked may help a tiny bit. But it can look good.

Triggers-Is there a big difference in buying a KIDD trigger group rather than having Brimstone rework your OEM trigger?

I haven't tried Brimstone's work but a Kidd two-stage trigger is in a class by itself. If I had the money every one of my 10/22s would have Kidd two-stage triggers. By using a two-stage design Kidd is able to create a super light perceived trigger pull without compromising safety.