10/22 Mods

[theduece]

Ok so far I have

Removed barrel band
ground out bolt release
Polished bolt. Only the sides and top not the face. mirror smooth. 300-600-1500 grit wet sand.
Trigger job. Nothing extreme followed a youtube vid and was easy enough.

Now it isn't what I would call a tack driver (I have seen the groups people spit out with their bolt actions), but it is a damn good running fairly accurate plinker.

I am starting this thread to discuss what others have done and if it is worth doing it.

From my understanding barrel band came off as it helped accuracy. I did not verify this and may put it back on to do so. I took it off to also install a Bipod.

Grinding the bolt release, DO THIS. So simple and yet now when someone unfamiliar with 10/22's is using it. I don't have to stop and release the bolt for them.

Polishing the bolt.. The jury is out on this one as the gun ran smooth before... But the factory machining marks So I took a few minutes and voila nice and purty.

The trigger job was more of a spit shine, didn't cut much off took it down to around 4-5lbs (guess) and polished up all the rough stuff. may take it down(lighten it) a bit further soon.

My next question is the recoil buffer I see..... I do not get it. I understand the principal behind it, however I do not see the need. Now the recoil does not bother me, however I have been noticing my scope sneaks up(forward) on the gun after a few hundred rounds. Is this something it would help? or is it more people just dont like metal smacking metal?

Now to the scope, it is a simmons 3-9x30 basic cheap and works for me. The rings are the standard ones it came with. I have torqued them down. I have not used the torque wrench. (this is next) I do not want or think loctite will help as it remains tight it just slides up.


Any suggestions? Or other mods? Bed the action? Float the barrel? What are your real life experiences doing these?


I know get a barrel, aftermarket stock, trigger group, etc.... This rifle is not getting such treatment. It is going to remain stock looking. However Post up your results with such mods as there are others that may be interested.

[latesvak]

Sounds like you have done good to me so far. All I can add is that I noticed my (same as yours) scope was doing the same thing. To fix the problem I added a small strip of electrical tape on the bottom of the top scope ring. Sticky side on the scope ring. I have put a couple thousand rounds and have had no movement so far. Good luck


latesvak

[Gnome]

Nice work. Be interesting to see what others here have to add. Try to check out RimfireCentral.com. Those guys love their 10/22s. A lot of knowledge over there.

Been reading up on them, as I plan to DROS mine tomorrow.

[davek8s]

I put a lot into my 10/22. It was worth it. Shoots dimes at 50 yards with CCI. Does great with federal bulk too. I changed out the bolt release, mag release, charging handle, guide rod and spring. But the best money I spent was on a Power Custom brand hammer. VQ hammer would be as good. Last thing I did was get a Fajen stock and drop in a 16" Whistle Pig barrel.

[prime mover]

[QUOTE=

My next question is the recoil buffer I see..... I do not get it. I understand the principal behind it, however I do not see the need. Now the recoil does not bother me, however I have been noticing my scope sneaks up(forward) on the gun after a few hundred rounds. Is this something it would help? or is it more people just dont like metal smacking metal?[/quote]

Who likes metal on metal? the only thing I've done to mine is the bolt buffer and floating barrel, starting low budget I guess.

[trob]

i would recommend getting on rimfirecentral.com and looking at their "Tips and Tricks" forum. It has all sorts of stuff you should do.

the first things I notice with your build is that I would:

*Get a new stock

*Get a new barrel (GM sporter is a favorite of mine)

*float the barrel

*bed the stock

*add a pressure pad

*extended mag release

*the scope should NEVER move. The fact that it sneaks up after a few hundred rounds is an issue. Use loc-tite and secure it.

I could go on forever, but thats what I would do first

also, the buffer just makes it sounds better. It's easier on the bolt just makes the action feel smoother on recoil.

[sholling]

The recoil buffer isn't necessary but I use them in all of my 10/22s to reduce wear and tear. As someone else said metal slamming into metal can't be good. But I've never heard of a receiver cracking because of metal on metal contact.

If the scope is moving then something isn't tight. Invest in an INCH-pound torque wrench or torque driver. You'll want that for a couple of things. I use a Utica TS-30 torque driver ($75 brand new on ebay) for its precision calibration but there are cheaper devices. I use it to torque rings and bases and to torque the take-down screw when I reassemble.



Removing the barrel band may or may not help accuracy. That's because the receiver is only held in place by a single screw and without the barrel band the receiver may shift side to side. The cure for that is bedding the receiver or the barrel or both so that it can't move. The other variable is how hard the receiver is screwed down. The take-down screw is pulling the receiver down into bare wood which gives a bit. You can pillar bed that area or install a Volquartsen bedding kit (not for use with a barrel band). The Volquartsen bedding kit ($27) isn't perfect but their pillar works well and the barrel pads can help find the right spot to glass bed down the road - the sweet spot varies from rifle to rifle.

Changing out the barrel can markedly increase accuracy but the tradeoff is you give up the ability to use hyper velocity ammo. Both Green Mountain and ER Shaw make factory profile barrels that are designed to fit a factory stock.

[tanakasan]

GM barrels are a great value and shooters.

Do the trigger for sure. KIDD if you have the cash, although Brimstone over at RFC is getting very good reviews.

I don't think the receiver will crack, but the soft buffer will help the holes to not elongate after many rounds. Plus they are easy to swap and very inexpensive.

Robert

[theduece]

Cool replies guys. I do not want to change the stock appearance of this rifle. So stocks and barrels are out on this build. I am trying to keep a stock looking reliable and accurate rifle.

I have an inch/lb torque wrench I will do this. If I still have issues I will do the tape trick. Pillar post and bedding sound like the next logical option.

[theduece]

Anybody have issues using the buffer? My only concern would be cycling. I dont know how much recoil it "absorbs".

Btw I'm not to found of metal on metal smack either.... But I don't like to mess with an allready proven design.....

Haha ok yea I realize how ironic that statement is considering this is a post on changing the proven design.

[theduece]

Prime

this is the lowest budget build I can figure out how to build. All of the work is done by me in the garage. Total cost so far aside from the rifle is less than $60. That money was $40 for the scope, and $20 on the bipod. I may drop another $10-15 on a sling. So it is easier to carry in the desert.

This isn't taking into account materials as I have most of them in the garage allready.

Btw I started with a stainless synthetic version of the rifle.

If there are any car guys here, the best analogy I can come up with is a sleeper.

[sholling]

Cool replies guys. I do not want to change the stock appearance of this rifle. So stocks and barrels are out on this build. I am trying to keep a stock looking reliable and accurate rifle.

I have an inch/lb torque wrench I will do this. If I still have issues I will do the tape trick. Pillar post and bedding sound like the next logical option.

You can swap out the barrel with a far more accurate factory profile match grade barrel and still keep a factory look. It's called a super-stock rifle. The barrel in the photos is a ER Shaw fluted factory profile but you can go plain. But with a match grade barrel you'll still lose the ability to shoot hyper velocity ammo.

[theduece]

Those are pretty.

What stock is that on the bottom rifle? Super stock? Is this a legitimate class at compitions?

I have 0 experience competing, and therefore know nothing about it.

[prime mover]

Prime

this is the lowest budget build I can figure out how to build. All of the work is done by me in the garage. Total cost so far aside from the rifle is less than $60. That money was $40 for the scope, and $20 on the bipod. I may drop another $10-15 on a sling. So it is easier to carry in the desert.

This isn't taking into account materials as I have most of them in the garage allready.

Btw I started with a stainless synthetic version of the rifle.

If there are any car guys here, the best analogy I can come up with is a sleeper.

I'm in similar scenario, got it used used for $100 plus 35 transfer, $38 scope, $12 see thru scope rings, $2 bolt buffer, tri-mag and one more stock mag around $25. the guy I got it from chopped the end of the stock off to the point of sliding a dollar bill in between the stock and barrel and my father in law is making me a sling out of paracord. all my money goes to classic cars and vintage minibikes but I try to fit a little gun in once in awhile.

[Solid Foundation]

Are you using the stock scope mount? That thing is a piece of junk, upgrade that if you haven't already.

Everyone's 10/22 is going to be different, mine would not take a titanium firing pin so I had to switch back to stock. Let me know if you want to try, I can sell it to you