10/22 Beding vs. free float

[kalguns]

I want to race out my 10/22.

For those of you who have done this process, is bedding of free float the the way to go?

I hear you can do both? Is that true?

I am starting out with a Tactical Solutions X-Wing barrel in mate black threaded.

http://www.tacticalsol.com/tshome/category/1022

Any suggestions on stocks? I want to be able to put a bi-pod on.

[Merc1138]

Umm.. why do you have bedding and free-floating as separate options? You know you can have a bedded action and free-floated barrel, right?

[dirtykoala]

Umm.. why do you have bedding and free-floating as separate options? You know you can have a bedded action and free-floated barrel, right?

QFT.

As far stocks, I love my Boyd's SS evolution. It seems like the design is getting pretty popular. It's light and comfortable and goes great with my tac sol barrel. Tac sol is producing a stock like it, dunno when they will be out or how much they will be though.

Its very comfortable, 100% ambi, and light.

[kalguns]

Umm.. why do you have bedding and free-floating as separate options? You know you can have a bedded action and free-floated barrel, right?

No I did not.

[Merc1138]

No I did not.

Well, now you know. And...

[Chaos47]

Well, now you know. And...

owned.

Research its 100% the battle

[kalguns]

clown

[Coyotegunner]

I bed all guns,incl. the 10-22 past the block or chamber on big bores.Float the rest of the barrel.Seems to take away the issue of heat building and changing point of impact.Factory the 10-22 shoots pretty well with quality ammo.I am talking about a bone stock el cheapo.By the 4th shot I can see the effect of heat though.Trigger work is a must.If replacing the barrel,consider the Lilja.They are pricey,but I have been impressed and wait until I save up the $75-100 over the Volq.Good luck.

[chillypepper]

bed the action, leave the V-block area free of any bedding compound then bed the first inch to inch and half of the barrel. Free-float the rest of the barrel.
I've only had one barrel that this system didn't work well with. but that is a whole different story.

another option is to bed the action again leaving the V-block area clear, and using a 1" wide 1/8" thick rubber strip just ahead (1/4" or so) of the block. this will allow you to move the strip forward or back to find the sweet spot. consistent torque to the takedown screw is critical to any method you choose, and will vary depending on how you bed/float.

[dg29]

All of mine have free floated barrels. The ones that have heavy barrels have adjustable
v-blocks to negate any possible barrel droop. Some people use a pressure pad under the barrel right in front of the take down bolt on the receiver and then free float the barrel the rest of the way. Many times just the use of the pressure pad will free float the barrel and you will not need to relieve the barrel channel in the stock. Here's a link to a some photos of a pressure pad:

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=325690&page=5

A better place to ask about your build would be here: http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/index.php
in their "ultimate 10/22" section.

[Sunday]

The reciever is pretty light on a 10/22.

[sholling]

bed the action, leave the V-block area free of any bedding compound then bed the first inch to inch and half of the barrel. Free-float the rest of the barrel.
I've only had one barrel that this system didn't work well with. but that is a whole different story.

another option is to bed the action again leaving the V-block area clear, and using a 1" wide 1/8" thick rubber strip just ahead (1/4" or so) of the block. this will allow you to move the strip forward or back to find the sweet spot. consistent torque to the takedown screw is critical to any method you choose, and will vary depending on how you bed/float.

No vote because 10/22s bedding vs free floating the barrel is best done on a case by case basis. That said Chillypepper's post is spot on. The only thing I do differently is I use a bit thinner rubber strip. The important things are 1) immobilize the receiver, 2) consistent torque on the takedown screw, 3) if bedding the barrel find the sweetspot.

As for stock selection rigidity and consistency are musts which makes laminated wood a really good option. Laminated doesn't change with weather and doesn't flex. The style of the stock is best chosen based on how it'll be used. While most stocks can be used for any style of shooting many designs are optimized for a single style - prone, bench, standing, or hunting.

[X-NewYawker]

Free float Volquartsen match barrel and stock -- shoots better than my old Anschutz,. I vote float.

[gatesbox]

Is threading barrel to receiver an option....? With threaded barrel and integrated scope mount on my razor, I doubt I have any droop whatsoever.... Can't think of any point that would put stress on the barrel...

[X-NewYawker]

Threading the barrel on defeats design of ruger and won't help because the connection is very secure, it is the actual receiver that is weak.
If you don't want droop, lose the Ruger Aluminum Receiver and get a steel receiver from Volquartsen.
And their trigger group.
And barrel.

At that point you wouldn't have much Ruger left…



100 yards.