80% 10/22 reciver

[sb855]

Hi UXO2, I have one of these recievers. They are nice but not the true finish on them of a name brand gun. I expect to do the machineing this week. The other post is correct in that there is still a sizeable amount of work to be done on this product. I thought I would do it in the garage but when I recieved it it seemed A bit much. On the website they make it sound simple but when you recieve it they CLEARLY state all remaining work needs to be done basicly in a machine shop enviroment with a mill to ensure you will not ruin the part. Iam very lucky that I have access to a full shop and the knowlege to complete it ( I hope). Not for everyone!

[scubamark13]

sB855 Can you take some pictures as you are doing the work so the rest of can see what we might be getting ourselves into?

Thanks

[ojisan]

The hole for the barrel must be straight and true with the receiver....best done on a mill.
The lug below the barrel hole must have the top surface relieved for barrel clearance.
The two horizontal holes in the lug also need to be straight and aligned.
The sides of the receiver need to be surface ground until they are flat and square, as the rest of the machine operations are done in relation to the outside.
Note that we found a air pocket (gouge) inside the casting in the barrel hole.

[ojisan]

Here you can see the surface grinding that was done to flatten and true up the sides of the receiver. The back of the receiver needs to be ground as well.

[ojisan]

Here you can see the magazine catch hole inside the front end of the receiver.
This hole is drilled at a slight angle as you cannot get a straight shot at it.
You need a long drill bit to reach this spot so you still have clearance for the drill chuck.
This hole is a little hard to locate as we were unable to find an exact specification for its location.
I suggest you drill it slightly higher than needed...you can lower the bottom edge as needed by hand with a dremel when you get to the point when you start fitting the magazine in.
Drill it higher than needed, if you drill too low, the magazines will sit too low to feed and this is not easy to fix.

[ojisan]

Despite all the dimensions on the drawing, the drawing is not complete.
Have a stripped genuine Ruger 10/22 receiver on hand to measure as needed.

[scubamark13]

Thanks for the pictures. It really looks like you will need more than just a drill press to complete this build. Do you think the gouge will affect anything or be a safety concern?

[ojisan]

You could always make a receiver out of wood for your first practice one...

[ojisan]

Thanks for the pictures. It really looks like you will need more than just a drill press to complete this build. Do you think the gouge will affect anything or be a safety concern?

The gouge has zero effect on strength, etcetera.
This was a stainless steel receiver, so even less of a concern, strength wise, than an aluminum one.
However, the aluminum ones are easier to work on and much lighter.

[scubamark13]

There are cad files on cncguns.com for the 10-22 they seem to have all the holes but I would need to verify to be sure. This might help with the location of the magazine catch hole. Would you say the hardest part was the barrel hole?

[ojisan]

The barrel hole is the most critical operation of the whole job.
If it is not straight and true to the receiver, your barrel will be crooked.
This is where you need a mill and careful set-up to get it right.
Be sure to grind the back of the receiver square and true, as all other operations will be in reference to this flat surface.
If you are experienced, I would say that just the surface grinding and barrel hole need to be done by a machine shop.
The rest could be completed with hand tools, but it won't be easy.
Note that even when all the holes are drilled and clearances cut, there will still be hand fitting and filing needed to make it all work right.

[scubamark13]

Do you know if there jig helps you drill the barrel hole?

[ojisan]

No jig that I am aware of.
How we did it:
Face rear and sides of receiver until square.
Clamp receiver in mill, square and true.
Use a centering gauge clamped in the mill chuck to get the cast hole dead center below the cutting bit.
Measure at a couple places within the cast barrel hole with the centering guage mounted in the mill chuck to make sure the receiver is clamped 100% true.
We found that the casting hole, while too small to accept the barrel, was true and straight within .003".
Drill out the barrel hole slowly using lots of lube.

You really need a mill with the centering gauge and an electronic position counter (so you can return to your starting point) to do it right.

[uxo2]

Thank you ojisan for the pics.

This is a little out of my skill level.

Put on the back burner for now.

not a BFR project like building AK's