MKIII 22/45 Trigger Issue

[merc]

??? months later and just wanted a few simple questions answered. the last ones before this post. i feel that perhaps there is such a think as asking dumb questions and people are just ignored for asking them. well...you were there once so...sorry i aint met your requirements.

im glad i dont live in california.

[big50_1]

Merc-saw your post. The extractor is made of better (tool?) steel and has a better hook. I've had a number of Mk Is and Mk IIs over the years and the stock extractor is stamped and can and does ride over the rim if the gun is shot enough to have a dirty chamber. The Volq. extractor will rip thru the rim before it rides. In other words, I've changed all my stock Ruger extractors for the Volq. I've used titanium firing pins and steel seems to be just as good. Currently I have a Mk II 22/45 and a Mk II standard w/6 in. bbl. The 22/45 has a Volq. sear/trigger/firing pin/extractor/hammer and a Volq. muzzle brake (adds weight at the end to tamp down wobble; .22 too low powered for braking action) and just the sear in the standard. The sear is the single best thing you can do, then the trigger then the extractor, then other things. I added anti-slip deck tape to the sides and back of the 22/45 so the grip "sticks" to my hand. Over the years I've had a Browning .22, a Hi-Standard Tournament, and a S&W 22A with a couple of different barrels. All gone except for two Ruger MK IIs. They're keepers!

[merc]

thanks. do you have a cheap source for the mark III 22/45 parts such as the sear, trigger, and extractor?

[big50_1]

(merc-don't know about cheap but here are some URLs that address Ruger parts:

http://www.rimfiresports.com/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=RSC&Category_Code=VC2TPRK

http://www.midwayusa.com/browse/BrowseProducts.aspx?pageNum=1&tabId=9&categoryId=18374&categoryString=10636***10560***9142***

http://www.hornetproducts.com/bin/category.asp?category=22

Again, in my opinion, unless you're are a bona fide targetshooter, the sear. trigger (I think Clark has a good one) and extractor will get you a smooth shooting firearm with good let off and positive extraction. A titanium firing pin is lighter and is supposed to help lock time as does a lightened hammer but I can't tell any difference between the steel and titanium parts. The titanium firing pin has a wider FP face that may make ignition more reliable (pinching more of the rim) but the steel part makes the gun go bang each time.

Also if you sell the Ruger, save the specialized parts for the next ruger. There was also a thin metal part (shield) that you could buy that covered the open trigger mech from fouling. Haven't seen one on the market for awhile. The Ruger design has the fouling gases blowing into the trigger area which gets grittier and grittier as you continue shooting. Somewhat like the AR15 is open to fouling gases. (found this URL: http://xavierthoughts.blogspot.com/2...st-shield.html ) Good luck.

By the way, my 1992 22/45:

[big50_1]

astana-maybe the trigger bar is hanging up when the bolt closes. As I recall, the trigger bar is pushed down by a ramp on the bolt on recoil to disconnect the hammer from the trigger (prevents auto fire). When the bolt closes, a cutout is above the spring-loaded trigger bar and allows it to rise and the back end to engage the sear. Maybe the trigger bar is sticking and when the trigger is moved the bar pops up causing a 'click'.