MKIII 22/45 Trigger Issue

[Astana]

Hola amigos,

Question on a Ruger mkIII 22/45 I bought about a month ago. Here's the scenario:

1) Bought it new and it wouldn't feed right from the start...every 3rd or 4th magazine would "stick" when inserted and wold require a serious bump on the mag to chamber. This was, at the time, no big issue b/c I bought it as a target pistol and it shot veeeery straight.

2) 500 rds later, I need to clean the chamber (cleaned the barrel twice previously) b/c it's covered gunk.

3) Pulling it apart and re-assembling is NOT the most intuitive thing I have ever done, but it seems to go OK.

4) Upon dis/reassembling, the pistol now has a "break" in the trigger that clicks a fraction of an inch before the hammer engages.

5) Rip it apart using the video and pictorial instructions four or five more times and the issue persists. Still that break a fraction of an inch before the hammer engages.

Soooo....

Three questions:

1) Is this a relic of the vaunted "magazine release" that people complain about?

2) Is this a common issue that has a solution which google can't seem to find?

or

3) If I have well and truly chunked this pistol, does anybody know a good gunsmith in north LA that can diagnose the problem?

Thanks!

-Astana

[big50_1]

Not sure what number 4 means. Everything should operate smoothly and when you insert a mag, it should go into battery easily and cleanly. Something may be rubbing or not in the appropriate position. Check for something that was muscled into position. May be bent. The trigger pulls the trigger bar forward which rotates the sear forward which allows the hammer to fall forward. All the extra mag mechanisms do is add spring tension to the system but the trigger should still break cleanly. Make sense?

I would take it apart and start over again putting it back together, making sure nothing rubbed as it was going together.

[Astana]

Gracias

Thanks for the advice...will pull it apart tomorrow to make sure, but what scares me is that I have NOT muscled anything in. Once I had the procedure down (not easy, FTR) everything went as it should. But..there's a distinct "click" previous to the the hammer engaging that was distinctly NOT there before the dis/reassembly.

[wellerjohn]

Lots of good information here http://guntalk-online.com/2245detailstripping.htm
For what it's worth mine has never had any problem at all.

[wellerjohn]

And one other thing this is worth way more that $12 https://www.volquartsen.com/products...ar-bargain-bin

[Bird of Fire]

That bullseye website and the volq sear are worth their weight in freaking gold. Took my trigger from meh to "Good god I love this gun and will never sell it."

[merc]

That bullseye website and the volq sear are worth their weight in freaking gold. Took my trigger from meh to "Good god I love this gun and will never sell it."

would you get that one linked ($12), or the newer design they indicate for ~$28? would the newer one be worth that little extra?

i know the non perfect one says it will not affect functioning, but still...peace of mind...which would you go with...let's say you had the little extra money?

is this a drop in replacement part? and is there any other part i would want for the mark iii 22/45?

[big50_1]

I've got a Mk II but it's similar. Replaced the trigger, sear, hammer (lighter), and the firing pin (titanium)(FP). I don't shoot competitively so just plinking. The trigger helps since it fits the frame better (less slop and movement), the sear definitely helps since it's got a good edge and it's polished and allows the hammer to slip off the sear cleanly but the hammer and firing pin I don't know if they are a benefit for just plinking.

The idea of a lighter hammer and titanium FP is to reduce the lock time and make the firing system operate faster; makes the gun more accurate through less wiggle at firing. I've shot handguns for years, in the military and civilian worlds and it seems that a real target, competitive shooter will benefit from those mods but a regular person will not. Again the trigger and sear, for me, had the most impact on accuracy/operation.

[Bird of Fire]

would you get that one linked ($12), or the newer design they indicate for ~$28? would the newer one be worth that little extra?

i know the non perfect one says it will not affect functioning, but still...peace of mind...which would you go with...let's say you had the little extra money?

is this a drop in replacement part? and is there any other part i would want for the mark iii 22/45?

I bought mine @ 28 bucks, before that 12 dollar sear business came about.

Still worth every red cent.

It really does drop right in, but bookmark that website that details the stripping process. It can be confusing and frustrating. I'm very mechanically inclined and I got it flat out wrong about 3 times in a row before I figured out what I was doing wrong.

[Astana]

Whoa

That Bullseye site was the ONLY reason I was able to break down the mkIII and put it back together. The Ruger videos were terrible...I think the guy had the gun milled just so it would come apart easily

Per the trigger...looking at it now. I DO love firing this pistol and want very much for it to function as it should. Improvements will be a bonus!

[Bird of Fire]

Give it time. After 30 or so break downs, the gun will come apart easier. Only things I've done on mine were the elimination of the magazine disconnect and the volq sear. Magazine disconnect allows the magazines to drop free, whereas before the disconnect was causing them to get hung up in the magwell. And the sear just makes it the most enjoyable gun to shoot. It's worth the cursewords and frustration in the garage to install it, I assure you.

[Gary13]

Have not done the sear, but maybe now I will. I did the volq extractor, and love that.

[merc]

I bought mine @ 28 bucks, before that 12 dollar sear business came about.

Still worth every red cent.

It really does drop right in, but bookmark that website that details the stripping process. It can be confusing and frustrating. I'm very mechanically inclined and I got it flat out wrong about 3 times in a row before I figured out what I was doing wrong.

thanks, but not sure my question is answered. i would gladly pay 28 dollars but for 28 dollars there is a newer version of this or whatever the site says.

is it worth it or should i get "seconds" with cosmetic imperfections or however they explain it?

also, if that is the only thing i change...what is the real world effect when shooting it? you know what i mean? does it feel different and how so?

[Bird of Fire]

thanks, but not sure my question is answered. i would gladly pay 28 dollars but for 28 dollars there is a newer version of this or whatever the site says.

is it worth it or should i get "seconds" with cosmetic imperfections or however they explain it?

also, if that is the only thing i change...what is the real world effect when shooting it? you know what i mean? does it feel different and how so?

Problem is I don't know what "version" of the sear I got. Know this much - before the updated version thousands upon thousands of people have bought that sear for their MKII/MKIII and been thrilled with it. I would genuinely say that no matter the amount you spend, you cannot go wrong.

The only thing I changed on my MKIII was the extractor and the sear. The sear lightens the trigger, and takes it from (mine was anyways) somewhat gritty with a bit of creep to a very clean break. The difference is just night and day and shooting wise it translates into better grouping since you're not exerting nearly as much pressure on the trigger to break the sear. To say it's vastly improved would be an understatement. Now go buy it!

[merc]

makes sense bird. what about the extractor? what are people getting for the mark iii 22/45 and what is the effect of a different extractor than the stock one?