zeroing scope

[scootle]

"
As for a low budget recommendation... I would try this, ive never used it, but it seems really popular with the Rimfire 10/22 guys. Weaver is another brand I would consider.

Mueller APV AO Rifle Scope, Black, 4.5-14 x 40mm
https://www.amazon.com/Mueller-Rifle...Mueller+APV+AO"

I have two of these Mueller scopes mounted on 2 Savage MKII's for 5 years. Never a complaint, never any issues.

I have one on my Savage Mk II TR as well... good to go.

Only niggle might be if you care that the turrets are in MOA with a mil-dot reticle... that likely won't matter a tremendous amount if you are using it at rimfire ranges.

[Furncliff]

I went with cheap glass for far too long, and have experience with three Centerpoints. I've gone to buying used scopes that have excellent warranty. Nikon, Weaver my favorite Leupold and others. Of the used scopes I've purchased only one had to go out for warranty work (Leupold fixed it for free).

[67Cuda]

LOL. There should be no reason to start at any distance other than the final distance you want to zero at. Please stop spreading this crap and, instead, learn how to properly zero an optic without wasting time, money and ammo. It's not hard to start at 1000 yards and have a scope zeroed in one shot. Although, I usually take a second shot to fine tune and a third to confirm.

Could you please describe the procedure you use for zeroing a scope within three shots at any distance.

I for one would like to learn.

[therealnickb]

Could you please describe the procedure you use for zeroing a scope within three shots at any distance.

I for one would like to learn.

Bore sight.

Shoot at bull. (Lead sled or bags preferably)

Re-sight on bull if the rifle moved.

Adjust reticle onto bullet hole without moving rifle.

Shoot at bull again.

Justify with one last shot.

[67Cuda]

^^^^ Thank You.

[LightsOut!]

Bore sighters are garbage. That's your main problem, sorry to say.

You want to sight your scope at a close distance initially <25 yards-- never fails. Preferably at something where you can see your shots (i.e. white spray paint on a metal gong, or glow targets).

Make sure your rings are tight as mentioned. Don't try adjust both windage and elevation at the same time. Try to get one set first... I usually start with elevation. Shoot at the same spot after, and you should be able to tell if it's shooting left or right. Adjust accordingly and keep shooting at the same spot.

Don't jerk the trigger either-- 223 bolt action is a big difference than 22lr. If all else fails, go exchange the scope?

[donw]

make sure scope is mounted correctly and securely...make sure you have the correct mount(s). unless you plan on shooting in excess of 500 yards or more, a 10-15-20 MOA adjusted mount should not be necessary.

start by making sure scope is mechanically "zeroed"...that is the adjustments, both windage and elevation, are near, or at center. know the 'click value' of the scope adjustments (1 click=1/4' @ 100 yds, etc)

know the size and distance to your target and be able to ID where the 1st shot hits. if necessary start with a 3'x3' at 25 yards.

do a "Bore sight" adjustment with bolt removed from rifle.

fire 1 shot...inspect POI

adjust in scope adjustments from there.

if the POI is dramatic at that distance...something is wrong

say it struck 1' low and 1' right from POA it's not likely you'll be able to adjust it to hit center.

[NOTABIKER]

Put another scope on my savage and got it very close at 25 yards with 10 rounds. Put 4 rounds touching in a quarter size sticker. Back to normal for my Mk 2 22lr savage.

[Mutant]

If you can't zero a scope, ask someone who knows what they are doing for help. Anyone on our range would gladly help out. As they also say, do not ask someone who is a nut behind the butt or an a** behind the glass.