zeroing scope

[NOTABIKER]

I have a Savage MK 2 heavy barrel 22lr. I had a center point 4-16-40 scope on it and it is a tac driver. Shot it many times over the last 4 years.
I just put a savage 223 in Dros and figured i would save my scope on the 22 for the new rifle. I had such good luck with the center point that i bought another one to mount on my 22. It was 10 bucks cheaper 3-9-30 . went to the range and flat out had NO luck zeroing it at 50 yards. Over 3 Hrs and maybe 200 rounds i could not hit a 12 inch circle. bore sighted it two times and could not get it on paper. WTF. Took the scope bake and got a refund.I am spoiled how good my other center point is. I could not find another one like it at two different WM. they had one called the long range 4-16-40 with a extra adjuster mounted on top so i did not buy it. I guess my question is it hit or miss on some scopes under 100 dollars.I am not going to put a 300 dollar scope on a 350 dollar rifle to hit paper targets at 50 yards.

[wpage]

You may have got a bad scope. Usually good to start at 25 yards/meters ...

Work back from there.

[CSACANNONEER]

Google "one shot zero method". There is no reason not to just zero at the distance you want it zeroed at. There is no reason to waste money, time and ammo starting close and working back unless, you are not sure of your ammo and rifle. If you know that both are fine and will produce the precision you desire, just zero it at whatever distance you want.

If you don't know if your bullets are tumbling or don't group worth a crap, start close and see if you can get a decent 5 or ten shot group then, zero it, fire one round to confirm, move to the final distance, adjust your optic for elevation based on simple math, fire one more round, perform your second and final zero and fire your last round to confirm.

[ExtremeX]

First recommendation is stop shopping for barging basement optics... you just got lucky on your first center point. Most people end up with an experience that's closer to the second one. If you want cheap, buy an entry level scope from a REPUTABLE manufacture like Vortex, Nikon, Bushnell, Weaver...

When I buy scopes, I don't generally worry about the cost of the rifle that its going on, you can always move it to a different rifle... Price of the gun and distance I am shooting don't really play into my decision making process.

I personally just like to get scopes that makes sense to own, and that will last. I look at scopes as an investment; good stuff or popular stuff ends up holding their value exceptionally well and are easy to sell even years down the road. A well designed optic is timeless... if you wanted to move on, you could with little penalty... plus they work exceptionally well.

I'm not saying go out and spend $1000+ on a wiz bang target scope, but shopping in that $200-400 price range really isn't an unrealistic price point for a half decent optic. You just spent 3 hours, 200 rounds, range fees, time and gas dealing with an issue... and are back to square one.

As for a low budget recommendation... I would try this, ive never used it, but it seems really popular with the Rimfire 10/22 guys. Weaver is another brand I would consider.

Mueller APV AO Rifle Scope, Black, 4.5-14 x 40mm

https://www.amazon.com/Mueller-Rifle-Scope-Black-4-5-14/dp/B000SULCTA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1471309017&sr=8-1&keywords=Mueller+APV+AO

If this was for the 223 Remington Savage, I would strongly recommend the SWFA fixed power 10x. I really like target turrets (un-capped) for target shooting.

If you want a capped scope, in a variable configuration, look at scopes like the Vortex Diamondback series, or Diamondback HP which is the same thing but with adjustable side focus.

Its good to mention scopes with side focus / parallax are pretty versatile. Most center fire optics are fixed at 100 yards, and 50 yards for rimfire. If you look for scopes with side focus / parallax try and find a scope that goes down to 25 yards... I have a SWFA fixed power I move around a lot depending on which rifle is the flavor of the month...

[calibrator]

^^ THIS^^

Crying about the $$$ spent on optics is a Fool's Errand. Decent Glass comes with a Life-time Warranty no matter who owns it. +1 for SWFA, 'course that is a 30mm tube and needs new mounts. Look through good glass, and it's like a drug, because it's sooo goood.

[olhunter]

Wow man. 200 rounds?

Sum Ting Wong.

Lots of things can go wrong besides the scope.

Rings aligned properly?

Did you tighten the rings in a cross-pattern without over torquing them?

Is the base secure?

25-inch-pounds of torque on the base and about 17 on the rings. That's not very much. You could very well have tweaked your scope tube if you over did it.

You probably got the Axis which has no sights, but you should be able to align the barrel and get it on paper at 50 yds. Did you try that?

There could be something wrong with the rifle, but not likely. But it happens. Check it out.

If all of that was in spec....your scope was crap. It happens. Although I've had good luck with Center Point scopes.

[Jarhead]

Never seen a scope that bad...........200 rounds

Did you remove the bolt and align chamber and scope on 25 yard target?

[therealnickb]

I have a Savage MK 2 heavy barrel 22lr. I had a center point 4-16-40 scope on it and it is a tac driver. Shot it many times over the last 4 years.
I just put a savage 223 in Dros and figured i would save my scope on the 22 for the new rifle. I had such good luck with the center point that i bought another one to mount on my 22. It was 10 bucks cheaper 3-9-30 . went to the range and flat out had NO luck zeroing it at 50 yards. Over 3 Hrs and maybe 200 rounds i could not hit a 12 inch circle. bore sighted it two times and could not get it on paper. WTF. Took the scope bake and got a refund.I am spoiled how good my other center point is. I could not find another one like it at two different WM. they had one called the long range 4-16-40 with a extra adjuster mounted on top so i did not buy it. I guess my question is it hit or miss on some scopes under 100 dollars.I am not going to put a 300 dollar scope on a 350 dollar rifle to hit paper targets at 50 yards.

You sir are the master of excess today.

[Horrendo Revolver]

You should always start your sight in at 25 yards.

[sofbak]

"
As for a low budget recommendation... I would try this, ive never used it, but it seems really popular with the Rimfire 10/22 guys. Weaver is another brand I would consider.

Mueller APV AO Rifle Scope, Black, 4.5-14 x 40mm
https://www.amazon.com/Mueller-Rifle...Mueller+APV+AO"

I have two of these Mueller scopes mounted on 2 Savage MKII's for 5 years. Never a complaint, never any issues.

[kenl]

Echoing olhunter, it's possible that the scope wasn't the issue. Did you check to see if the mounts and rings were properly tightened? That's the first thing i look at if a scope isn't acting as expected.

[CSACANNONEER]

You should always start your sight in at 25 yards.

LOL. There should be no reason to start at any distance other than the final distance you want to zero at. Please stop spreading this crap and, instead, learn how to properly zero an optic without wasting time, money and ammo. It's not hard to start at 1000 yards and have a scope zeroed in one shot. Although, I usually take a second shot to fine tune and a third to confirm.

[M1XdColt]

I have a Savage MK 2 heavy barrel 22lr. I had a center point 4-16-40 scope on it and it is a tac driver. Shot it many times over the last 4 years.
I just put a savage 223 in Dros and figured i would save my scope on the 22 for the new rifle. I had such good luck with the center point that i bought another one to mount on my 22. It was 10 bucks cheaper 3-9-30 . went to the range and flat out had NO luck zeroing it at 50 yards. Over 3 Hrs and maybe 200 rounds i could not hit a 12 inch circle. bore sighted it two times and could not get it on paper. WTF. Took the scope bake and got a refund.I am spoiled how good my other center point is. I could not find another one like it at two different WM. they had one called the long range 4-16-40 with a extra adjuster mounted on top so i did not buy it. I guess my question is it hit or miss on some scopes under 100 dollars.I am not going to put a 300 dollar scope on a 350 dollar rifle to hit paper targets at 50 yards.

I think you may got the new version of the CP scope. They're a bit different from the older one. I have one mount on my Axis II in 30-06 and it does hold zero.

[Scratch705]

i kinda also had a problem zeroing my scope this past weekend on my 10/22.

my issue was that the scope in mechanical zero was aiming way above POI.

at 100 yards, when i'm aiming dead center, the impacts of the bullets were in the dirt out of the view of the scope view even at 3x. i had to open both eyes to see the dirt splash.

i'm using a Bushnell XLT 3-9x and i'm wondering if i just mounted it poorly and the rear of the scope is lower than the front to cause this much difference.

i'm gonna take everything off and re-mount this weekend and hit up prado and hopefully their rifle side will be open cause that is a 50 meter range and i'm hoping for a near mechanical zero at 50 meters. gonna buy a 20moa base to also test out.

[LynnJr]

The distance you zero your scope at shouldn't matter but it always does.
The farther you go out the larger the dispersion and the harder to see your bullet splash.
You can't correct for what you can't see.
On the cheaper scopes they tend to be either reliable or dead right out of the box.
I bought a whitetail classic 4-12 after shooting one while at the range.
It would adjust left/right but had no elevation at all it would just spin.