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Adjustable Cheek Riser Project - fabrication steps with pics
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I mainly shoot .22lr, 9mm,45 acp, 357 & 38, 12G, 7.62x39, .308, .223/556, 7.62x54r, 300 win mag, 8x57God Bless USA -
My version is a bit different. My Hogue stock is shaped considerably differently than OP's, without even a modest comb.

I chose to make a longer riser than his, extending from the rear wrist to the beginning of the butt pad.
The only deviation from his excellent step by step was the way I chose to transfer my template to the material, instead of trying to draw or mark the kydex with a knife, I simply used the back of my pattern as a stencil, painting the areas to be removed with a plastic friendly primer. I figured the paint wold not show if I shaped the part correctly.


I cut carefully but a bit roughly with a jigsaw, then finished it with a drum sander on my drill press. I cut the slots using the press as well, drilling the ends with a 1/4" bit, then connecting the two ends with smaller diameter holes, then using the 1/4 bit again like a router bit. Perfectly sized to grab the flats of the carriage bolt and keep it from spinning.
I bent the sheet over a one inch PVC pipe in my vice, using my hands. It doesnt melt or even get hot enough to burn right away. One thing I noticed is sometimes it wants to return to flat a bit, so I ended up re bending the main curve and taping it to the pipe to let it set up.
I grabbed the blackened steel finger nuts from McMaster Carr today, cost about $5. More than the aluminum knobs I bought from China, but I wanted to finish this.
Here it is mounted and approximately where it seems to be the correct height.



Thanks to OP, this was really a pretty straightforward project that saved me from having to buy a new stock.
For anyone wondering, the hogue stocks appear to be rubber over a plastic shell, and hollow inside. Drilling was less than a minute total, it took way longer to decide where to put holes in the stock.
Thanks, OP. Total cost, $14.00 give or take a few cents.Originally posted by tony270It's easy to be a keyboard warrior, you would melt like wax in front of me, you wouldn't be able to move your lips.Originally posted by repubconservPrint it out and frame it for all I careOriginally posted by el chivoI don't need to think at all..XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXOriginally posted by pjsigYou are talking to someone who already won this lame conversation, not a brick a wall. Too bad you don't realize it.
sigpicComment
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Adjustable Cheek Riser Project - fabrication steps with pics
That is fantastic, Citadel. Looks like it was done professionally.Facts are stubborn things; and whatever may be our wishes, our inclinations, or the dictates of our passions, they cannot alter the state of facts and evidence.Comment
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Excellent write upRule 1- ALL GUNS ARE ALWAYS LOADED
Rule 2 -NEVER LET THE MUZZLE COVER ANYTHING YOU ARE NOT PREPARED TO DESTROY (including your hands and legs)
Rule 3 -KEEP YOUR FINGER OFF THE TRIGGER UNTIL YOUR SIGHTS ARE ON THE TARGET
Rule 4 -BE SURE OF YOUR TARGET AND WHAT IS BEYOND IT
(thanks to Jeff Cooper)Comment
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Spacers
Would it be beneficial to make spacers to go inside of the hollow stock to prevent the stock from collapsing a bit and allowing the cheek rest to drop?
Cut a small section of tubing with a washer on both ends?
Or filling the stock with shot and epoxy to add some weight to the back of the gun?Rule 1- ALL GUNS ARE ALWAYS LOADED
Rule 2 -NEVER LET THE MUZZLE COVER ANYTHING YOU ARE NOT PREPARED TO DESTROY (including your hands and legs)
Rule 3 -KEEP YOUR FINGER OFF THE TRIGGER UNTIL YOUR SIGHTS ARE ON THE TARGET
Rule 4 -BE SURE OF YOUR TARGET AND WHAT IS BEYOND IT
(thanks to Jeff Cooper)Comment
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I was thinking about doing that originally if there was a flexing problem with the stock, but it was a non-issue. I don't detect any flexing, and I can press really hard on it and it doesn't slip; much harder than my cheek does.Would it be beneficial to make spacers to go inside of the hollow stock to prevent the stock from collapsing a bit and allowing the cheek rest to drop?
Cut a small section of tubing with a washer on both ends?
Or filling the stock with shot and epoxy to add some weight to the back of the gun?Comment
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I've played with the setup for a couple days, with the suggestion/question about filler and flexing of the stock in mind.
The stock is very stout, I can't deform it be squeezing or twisting anything other than the fore end.
I also can't get enough torque on the thumb nuts to deform the stock, but it does lock up tight, I can't move the riser with pretty firm strikes to it.
I don't think any stiffeners are needed, and I don't think the four holes reduce the integrity.
I also don't want this thing any heavier. It's lightly front heavy with a conventional bull barrel. It feels like a centerfire rifle now, not a Rimfire.
I still haven't shot it yet with the riser, but again,thanks op. This was a cheap, easy project that fixed something that needed fixing.Originally posted by tony270It's easy to be a keyboard warrior, you would melt like wax in front of me, you wouldn't be able to move your lips.Originally posted by repubconservPrint it out and frame it for all I careOriginally posted by el chivoI don't need to think at all..XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXOriginally posted by pjsigYou are talking to someone who already won this lame conversation, not a brick a wall. Too bad you don't realize it.
sigpicComment
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thanks for the great write up
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