Request for help: "better" ammo suggestions

[FiremanBob]

CCI SV will work much better in your rifle, and it will be more accurate than the bulk stuff. But you have to do your part. If you are having FTEs, you should:

1. ensure the chamber, bolt and receiver are meticulously clean. Use a chamber brush every 500 rounds or so. I recommend the Gunsmither tool, or make your own from a brass-core Dewey No-Harm .22 pistol brush (that's what I use).
2. upgrade your extractor. I recommend either VQ or Kidd
3. make sure the inside of the receiver doesn't have a rough surface. If it has paint overspray, get some green Scotchbrite and polish it up. You're not looking for a mirror finish so don't take off metal, just make it smooth.

I made a video demonstrating how to change the extractor, which you can find here: https://1022companion.wordpress.com/...the-extractor/

[hardlyworking]

Awesome replies guys - THANK YOU !

My turn for some feedback, I'm doing this from the hip after reading last night's replies.

1) I normally use CCI Mini-Mags, but with a smattering of boxes picked up here and there some are 36gr HP and some are 40gr RN, I didn't have enough of ONE kind to run the 2 day class so I broke into the 525 bulk box of the Feds to be sure I could get through the class with only one kind of ammo. However I never tested them in the rifle... lesson learned

2) After Day-1 of the class the head coach (Cameron) took the bolt out and said "Did you lube this up?" (yes) It was totally gunked, so much the firing pin was dragging. He cleaned it all up, told me to lube ONLY the two flats on top, lightly, and the next day it shot much better, but still had multiple stovepipes.

3) Loose case rattling around in the action? Yes exactly, sometimes they would be crushed by the bolt deep on the left side and I would have to turn the rifle ejection port down and rack the bolt a few times (probably only NEEDED to do it once, but I was on the clock and wanted that thing OUT).

4) Thank you all for the helpful advice! I will look for heavier 40gr round nose, and try a few different kinds to see what the rifle likes best at 25-50 yards off a bag... and then TRY to buy a few thousand of them to save for future Appleseeds, I'm definitely going back!

[FiremanBob]

Ok, that new info helps. Also, what magazines are you using? The primary ejector in a 10/22 is built into the left-side feed lip of the magazine. Some non-Ruger mags do not have this feature properly designed, so the extracted case fails to be thrown out of the receiver. If you are using the Ruger mags, then I would blame the extractor.

Second, and this is not unusual for beginners using the sling: if the rifle is not firmly pressed into your shoulder, it can move under recoil enough so that the barrel bumps into the extracted case before it can be thrown free. It's the rifle equivalent of "limp-wristing" a recoil-action pistol. It sounds odd, but I see it a dozen times a year on the AS lines.

Minimags cycle the action extremely well. CCI SV will also, if your rifle is clean, and it has the advantage of being more accurate than Minimags.

Finally, racking the bolt multiple times to clear a stuck round is a waste of time and won't get you any more points on the AQT. Lock it back, clear the stuck case, and then feed the next round. That's quicker and safer.

[Fishslayer]

3) Loose case rattling around in the action? Yes exactly, sometimes they would be crushed by the bolt deep on the left side and I would have to turn the rifle ejection port down and rack the bolt a few times (probably only NEEDED to do it once, but I was on the clock and wanted that thing OUT).

Almost certainly extractor. I've had that problem. The spent case blows back but since it's not in the extractor there's not enough energy to eject it.

If you get the Volquartzen part note that the extractor spring needs to be replaced as well. VQ includes the spring with their extractor. It's not hard. There are a few Youtube videos on it.

[Fishslayer]

You're trying to use cheap bulk pack ammo with cheap brass in a quality semi-auto rifle:

Read the following:

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=957815&highlight=ammo+selection

=8-)

You have a point. Who ever heard of some yahoo trying to run Federal bulk through a 10/22? What was I thinking?

[hardlyworking]

Read the whole thing mrrabbit, thank you! Very informative.

[SB1964]

I bought a new 10/22 & it had failures to fire & eject right from the box. I detailed it before shooting it. 10 years later, after maybe 200 rounds through it I took it apart. It had a bent firing pin spring installed BACKWARDS from the factory & a crappy extractor.

You can make this as simple or as complicated as you like. I feel factory Ruger extractors are stamped from mild steel & cause problems. They cost less than 15 bucks.

I'd buy a VQ extractor & SCRUB the chamber & barrel. CCI sv or mini mags & federal auto match are some of the best "target grade" ammo avail.

[Mutant]

The best cheaper ammo used in my various 10/22s is CCI standard velocity. Eley Target at $6.50 a box shrinks groups but cost more of course. Generally MRP indicates a very rough scale of ammo quality. Read RimfireCentral and you will learn a lot.

[RawHP]

I detect a little sarcasim here...

Let's be clear, I'm not claiming "quality" brass equipped ammo is the ONLY ammo you can use I semi-auto.

The point I AM making is that if you want reliable operation and cycling of your semi-auto firearm - using quality ammo is a huge factor in making that happen.

=8-)

I would put it slightly different. I would say

"quality" brass equipped ammo is the ONLY ammo you can use in some semi-autos.

And if you want reliable operation and cycling in some semi-auto firearms - using quality ammo is a huge factor in making that happen.

But, with a 10/22, investing a little time and effort into fine tuning, you can have reliable operation and cycling using most bulk ammo. People not willing to make that investment usually blame the ammo, which is fine. People can decide for themselves where to make the investment; in the ammo or in the firearm. Investing for accuracy is a different story.

Personally I think investing in the firearm is the best option for me. It gives me a lot more flexibility, especially when ammo is scarce. I like CCI, but I have less than 3K rounds of it in my stash, which isn't much if you shoot a lot. The rest of what I have is a mix of other bulk ammo, plus target grade, all of which function very reliably.

[Fishslayer]

The point I AM making is that if you want reliable operation and cycling of your semi-auto firearm - using quality ammo is a huge factor in making that happen.

We're talking 10/22 and Federal bulk ammo. Out of the box a 10/22 should function just fine with Fed bulk. OP's doesn't. The 10/22 and MK series pistols extractors are known weak links. So OP has 2 choices...

1. Spend $10-ish and almost certainly fix the problem or

2. Let the rifle collect dust while he searches high & low for big buck ammo which for most of us plinkers would be a waste of money anyway. And it still won't cycle Fed bulk.

[Mutant]

To each their own but my choices are made on accuracy (within budget of course, no $24 box stuff ever). I like to hit what I aim at and most bulk just doesn't make it.

[Fishslayer]

So instead of paying .02 per round more for the quality brass needed by a semi-auto firearm that relies on a recoil spring, powder charge, blow back and smooth extraction for it's timing window...for reliable cycling...

Yes. If the firearm is functioning normally it should run just about anything with enough pop to cycle the bolt.

To each their own but my choices are made on accuracy (within budget of course, no $24 box stuff ever). I like to hit what I aim at and most bulk just doesn't make it.

Good for you. You are awesome. You win the internet and I want to have your babies... but...

We're talking about correcting a mechanical deficiency versus a bandaid consisting of buying a specific type of ammo...

Screw it... I give up. You two don't WANT to get the point...

[Mutant]

Yes. If the firearm is functioning normally it should run just about anything with enough pop to cycle the bolt.



Good for you. You are awesome. You win the internet and I want to have your babies... but...

We're talking about correcting a mechanical deficiency versus a bandaid consisting of buying a specific type of ammo...

Screw it... I give up. You two don't WANT to get the point...

Well, bend over. My dog can help you have babies.

[RawHP]

So let me get this straight?

Buying that ammo that consistently meets the tolerances necessary for clean breech insertion and extraction...

...is a band-aid?

Seriously?

=8-|

For the OP, where the ammo is being used for competition, where near 100% functioning is desired, it makes sense to do whatever he can to achieve it. When not in competition, he can afford an occasional failure. My 10/22 will experience maybe one failure in a brick/bulk pack of ~500, or about 99.8% reliability. Good enough for practice, and probably acceptable to most shooters.

The OP was having many more failures with Federal bulk, which in general should provide well over 99% reliability in a well functioning 10/22, which is an indicator that something is wrong, unless he got a really bad batch of ammo. If that's the case, he should correct that first if he's looking for 100% accuracy, since even the best ammo will likely have some malfunctions if his hardware is not up to snuff. It would be foolish for him to ignore something that appears to be a clear indication that something is amiss, if he wants/requires 100% reliability during competition.

Once he corrects the problem, then he has the absolutely best chance of achieving 100%. Of course 100% is not a reality with any type of rimfire ammo, which is why it's not recommended for use in a life or death situation, where any failure can have dire consequences. If the OP were in a bench rest competition, then he'd need match grade ammo. CCI wouldn't cut it. The right ammo for the right purpose, but in any case, ignoring the indicators that something is wrong doesn't make sense. Fix that first, then use CCI in competition, and he can get a lot more practice with a lot less investment when he's practicing with bulk ammo with acceptable reliability.

[SB1964]

So let me get this straight?

Buying that ammo that consistently meets the tolerances necessary for clean breech insertion and extraction...

...is a band-aid?

Seriously?

=8-|

OP could choose to buy another lot of ammo, fill his gas tank, pay range fees & go see what happens. He could do this until he's broke or quits shooting out of frustration.

I don't care how clean & proper the ammo is, if the gun fails to cycle consistently, it'll continue to occur.

Rabbit, you could study or post pages of ammo "results" & FPS stats, while it's appreciated, it'll never impress me. What's impressive to me are people that are willing to look at both sides of an issue & quite simply resolve it.