Laser Bore Sight Hack

[MoondogIndustries]

https://youtu.be/bc4ca6I6J68

Laser bore sighters, which fit into the muzzle of your barrel, are not 100% dead nuts center on your bore. There’s a certain amount of looseness in the tolerances, from the laser diode to the straightness of the stem, to threads of the screw on the caliber adapter. It’s normal that they’re just a few degree’s off.

But by using a little practical geometry we can get around this imprecision. By rotating the bore sighter while attached to your barrel, the laser dot traces a circle around the center of its axis; your barrel. You can either estimate the center of that circle or simply position the dot at the nadir of the curve, you can aim the vertical/elevation centerline with your barrel.

This will almost certainly get you on paper if nothing else. Once you get holes on paper you can make finer adjustments to zero your sights.

WOLFROAD BORE SIGHT KIT

https://amzn.to/3t8CBle

MIDTEN BORE SIGHT KIT

https://amzn.to/3JSQc61

[Munny$hot]

Great vid

[Ki6vsm]

Good vid. Thanks.

I have a Site Lite brand laser and figured out pretty quick that the only way to know if it's actually aiming true is to sight in the optic on the dot, the spin the laser around 180* or so, and check it again. Then maybe rotate it 90* and look again. It usually proves to be damned close, though I admit, my laser "sight in range" is my own backyard, typically. I only have about 18 yds to work with.

Rotating the laser is critical too if one gets lazy (not naming names LOL) and doesn't want to remove a muzzle device, which is obviously a potential source for error. By spinning the laser it's easy to find out if the opening on the end if the MD is centered well enough. I'm surprised to learn that my MDs at least, were made with decent enough precision. They don't scribe very big circles at all with the beam. At least not at 10 yards.

With my rifles I still do my first firings at 50 yds or less anyway, when zeroing a new optic. Just to be sure.

I think the most important setting to get really close with the laser is windage. You want to work on the elevation too, but the correction for that can be easier to troubleshoot at the firing range. And targets are usually taller than they are wide, so with a windage error it's easier for the bullet to get a clean miss. And when that happens, you don't know if it flew to the right, left, or over the target. At that point you'd still be at square one.

[Scotty]

Besides the fact that these boresighters are pretty much useless as the are other ways to get dialed in quickly.

The fact that you point out that they can be a few degrees off makes them even more useless.

A scope with 34mm tube have 120 MOA of total elevation travel. That's 1 deg up and 1 deg down front the optical center. An 1 inch tube scope typically is 30 MOA. That's 1/4 deg up and down.

If you are trying to get on paper with a 12 inch target at 100 yard, you would need to find the center of the laser at 30 feet to within 1.2 inches or you won't be on paper.

It takes me 2 shots on the 25 yard range to get a scope sighted in to get on paper at 100 yards. There's really no need to use a bore sighter.

[Ki6vsm]

Besides the fact that these boresighters are pretty much useless as the are other ways to get dialed in quickly.

The fact that you point out that they can be a few degrees off makes them even more useless.

A scope with 34mm tube have 120 MOA of total elevation travel. That's 1 deg up and 1 deg down front the optical center. An 1 inch tube scope typically is 30 MOA. That's 1/4 deg up and down.

If you are trying to get on paper with a 12 inch target at 100 yard, you would need to find the center of the laser at 30 feet to within 1.2 inches or you won't be on paper.

It takes me 2 shots on the 25 yard range to get a scope sighted in to get on paper at 100 yards. There's really no need to use a bore sighter.

I see your point. To a point. But at today's prices, those two shots you're taking can be as much as $1-3 each. Depends on what you're sighting in an why, I guess. The laser WILL get you "on paper" without firing a shot, if you don't mind paying a little money for the extra tool.

And who shoots at a 12" paper target that's just floating by itself in the air? To me, for sighting in purposes "on paper" means at least hitting the cardboard the target's taped to, and that's typically at least 18-24" square. So I'd always know which way to adjust the the sights, should it not hit the target itself, in any case. To each his own.

I think there's no need for automatic transmissions either, unless the driver has some kind of disability. But I don't give other people a hard time for using them.

[Munny$hot]

Besides the fact that these boresighters are pretty much useless as the are other ways to get dialed in quickly.

The fact that you point out that they can be a few degrees off makes them even more useless.

A scope with 34mm tube have 120 MOA of total elevation travel. That's 1 deg up and 1 deg down front the optical center. An 1 inch tube scope typically is 30 MOA. That's 1/4 deg up and down.

If you are trying to get on paper with a 12 inch target at 100 yard, you would need to find the center of the laser at 30 feet to within 1.2 inches or you won't be on paper.

It takes me 2 shots on the 25 yard range to get a scope sighted in to get on paper at 100 yards. There's really no need to use a bore sighter.

Chasing you impact with your reticle works great if you have a subtension reticle or a lead sled,. For standard cross hair/duplex reticles or red dots and for those on the cheap it's a good option especially when ammo prices are elevated and availability is scarce.