Basic safe information for beginners

[kkp]

Thanks for the comments. As far as moisture barrier, some have suggested cutting a piece of sheet aluminum to put under the safe, some suggest tar paper, some suggest using a vapor barrier used for laminate flooring, some suggest coating the bottom of the safe with a silicone caulk, some suggest sealing the garage floor, some suggest mounting it so it is slightly elevated so air can circulated . . . lots of suggestions/ideas . . .

Responding to an old post, here, but:

One issue to be aware of is galvantic corrosion. If you use metal as a barrier between the safe and the floor, make sure it's the same kind of metal as the safe. In other words, if you have a steel safe, don't use aluminum sheeting, or you will actually accelerate the corrosion process if any moisture ever gets in there. This is particularly an issue if you live near the ocean, as salts compound the problem. The key point is just to make sure the metals don't touch, however... if you wanted to use sheet aluminum but cover the sheeting with a plastic/rubber membrane, like shower pan liner, that would solve the metal-to-metal problem. This can be an issue (to a MUCH lesser extent) with steel to steel as well, if you use drastically different grades of sheet steel, so I'd go ahead use some sort of barrier there as well.

Personally, I'm thinking some ceramic floor tiles would do the job of elevating the safe a tad without any danger of burning, and they'd be plenty strong enough to hold the weight (as long as the safe is lowered onto them relatively carefully).

[beatstanfurd]

I've been looking into a vapor barrier solution before bolting my safe down. I've got some leftover Redgard from a bathroom remodel. Figure I'll apply a coating or two to the bottom of the safe and to the floor where it will be installed.

Any thoughts on Redgard?

[kkp]

I'm no expert on safes, I just have some experience with unexpected issues with dissimilar metals in wet conditions. Any sort of effective non-metal vapor barrier should be fine, I'd think. The one advantage to raising the safe off the ground, however, is keeping things bone dry in the hopefully unlikely event of unexpected water. One spilled beer (let alone an actual water leak) can introduce water between the floor and whatever is touching the floor. If its the safe touching the floor, whether or not the floor itself it waterproof won't stop liquid for wicking in, and once between the floor and the safe bottom, that moisture is going to be stuck for a LONG time. That's why I like the idea of getting the safe up off the ground at least 1/4" or so, and ideally allowing at least some airflow to dry anything that manages to get in along the floor (or at least it won't matter since its not the safe bottom).

[hyrise]

1/4" gap under a safe is plenty of room to get a saw blade in there to cut the bolts. Just sayin. Something to think about.

[kkp]

Good point, although (a) that's sure not an easy cutting angle, and (b) must be one hell of a saw to reach the BACK bolts as well as the front ones.

[SpoonKiller]

Anyone have a good source on how to move one? I've got an 800 pound safe coming in about 4 weeks.

[dacolan]

Anyone have a good source on how to move one? I've got an 800 pound safe coming in about 4 weeks.

A sturdy dolly and a couple (few) good friends. I just had a 560 lb safe delivered awhile back. One trick that helps quite a bit is taking the door off before you move it. This reduces the weight significantly.

[MoToMaStR]

For you fellas worried about leaving a gap under the safe for fear of crooks using a sawzall and hacking your anchor bolts and stealing the safe, FEAR NOT!!! A trip to your local auto parts store and about $25 bucks will make them damn near impossible to saw!!! Get yourself 4 wheel hub bearings. The ones shaped like this, \_/ and its a ton of needle bearings covering the outside. Have fun cutting them, lol. Iv found its pretty damn hard to cut somethig that spins. A buddy of mine showed me this trick. And i tried to prove him wrong with a sawzall and attack the bearing covered anchor bolts that were secured to the garage floor. I failed miserably. cheap investment that will almost guarentee your safe stays put.

[Jaysinsr]

Hello, still kinda new here on the CG site but as a 3rd generation locksmith and safe tech, if anyone has any questions concerning the physical safe or locks, feel free to pm me. I have used, sold, installed and worked on a number of safes and vaults through the years. So if I don't have the answer right away I can certainly get the information to you and or point you in the right direction.

[catmman]

Wow, great info. Will try the hub bearing trick.

[Tararam Pararam]

http://gunsafereviewsguy.com/articles/

Lots of useful info.

[Librarian]

Don't know why I was looking, but ran across this a day or so ago: http://www.sargentandgreenleaf.com/EMP/

Sargent & Greenleaf Electronic Locks are
TESTED and PROVEN EMP-Resistant

Sargent & Greenleaf's high-security electronic locks are proven to withstand military-level EMP attacks, giving you full access to your valuables even after an EMP emergency.

[James Tredwell]

Don't know why I was looking, but ran across this a day or so ago: http://www.sargentandgreenleaf.com/EMP/

Gun safes are changed over the years now. There are a lot of things to look into now. Moreover, the steel construction is quite tricky. Heavier the gun safe is lesser its portability and become more of a pain to move it around. But the good news is that the heavier it is likely that more steel is used in construction and hence you get a more tougher gun safe.

[samuelcruz]

Is this a blog entry? As these info's are really unique and helpful and I also want to know more about California law and rules about gun safes, So can you provide me a source for it which is carrying detail entry in that matter?

[Librarian]

KenSFO posted this link: http://gunsafereviewsguy.com/article...-fire-ratings/

Good info.

Same source as Tararam linked to in 2014.