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(if you're still reading the thread, or other Mosin newbies ....)
Stock - Those here saying there's no reason to touch it are correct - it looks in fine shape. If/when down the road it's chipped up etc., then you can decide whether to leave as is/re-shellac/refinish some other way. Jump off that bridge when you get to it. However, it's a good idea to wipe the stock down (thoroughly, inside and out, after disassembly) with mineral spirits. They won't affect the shellac, but should help remove any cosmoline or other gunk that is there. These stocks can get pretty greasy when shooting, wiping down should help with that.
Safety and function - sdfire makes a good point, as does the commenter talking about headspace. Learn the basics (there is very little to learn) about your rifle, including how to disassemble/reassemble the bolt and then check firing pin protusion and adjust it (super simple). Headspace? If you got it from Turners, or J&G, or Classic, or SOG, or AIM, it's probably fine - if you want to check it yourself or think you might start accumulating these things, the one guage you need is fairly cheap from Okie guages, and easy to use.
Initial cleaning - as noted above, many explanations on the web you can check. Two words to remember: heat, and mineral spirits. These two things melt/dissolve cosmoline, a petroleum-based preservative. Disassemble the rifle, and heat up the metal parts and soak them in mineral spirits (cheap @ home stores) overnight - twice. THEN inspect and do final cleaning, then oil lightly. Receiver/barrel is hard to heat thoroughly unless you have access to a commercial oven or a pizza oven (!) - just stand it in boiled water, then in spirits - twice - then inspect and detail-clean every inch of the chamber area.
Cleaning after "corrosive" ammo - simple. Boiled water down the bore, then clean normally. Hot water when the rifle's still hot from shooting evaporates the water nicely. Water dissolves potassium salts (these are the things, in the primers, that make such ammo "corrosive"). Ammonia does not, so Windex is no advantage. Hot water. If you live in SoCal, you typically won't face much of a problem, given our very low humidity. If your bore is dark and you'd like to brighten it up, consider home-made electronic bore cleaning (see the web).
7.62C54R.net is your friend for an amazing amount of info on rifle's history and "industrial history" (which parts/styles come from which factories and eras).
Stock - Those here saying there's no reason to touch it are correct - it looks in fine shape. If/when down the road it's chipped up etc., then you can decide whether to leave as is/re-shellac/refinish some other way. Jump off that bridge when you get to it. However, it's a good idea to wipe the stock down (thoroughly, inside and out, after disassembly) with mineral spirits. They won't affect the shellac, but should help remove any cosmoline or other gunk that is there. These stocks can get pretty greasy when shooting, wiping down should help with that.
Safety and function - sdfire makes a good point, as does the commenter talking about headspace. Learn the basics (there is very little to learn) about your rifle, including how to disassemble/reassemble the bolt and then check firing pin protusion and adjust it (super simple). Headspace? If you got it from Turners, or J&G, or Classic, or SOG, or AIM, it's probably fine - if you want to check it yourself or think you might start accumulating these things, the one guage you need is fairly cheap from Okie guages, and easy to use.
Initial cleaning - as noted above, many explanations on the web you can check. Two words to remember: heat, and mineral spirits. These two things melt/dissolve cosmoline, a petroleum-based preservative. Disassemble the rifle, and heat up the metal parts and soak them in mineral spirits (cheap @ home stores) overnight - twice. THEN inspect and do final cleaning, then oil lightly. Receiver/barrel is hard to heat thoroughly unless you have access to a commercial oven or a pizza oven (!) - just stand it in boiled water, then in spirits - twice - then inspect and detail-clean every inch of the chamber area.
Cleaning after "corrosive" ammo - simple. Boiled water down the bore, then clean normally. Hot water when the rifle's still hot from shooting evaporates the water nicely. Water dissolves potassium salts (these are the things, in the primers, that make such ammo "corrosive"). Ammonia does not, so Windex is no advantage. Hot water. If you live in SoCal, you typically won't face much of a problem, given our very low humidity. If your bore is dark and you'd like to brighten it up, consider home-made electronic bore cleaning (see the web).
7.62C54R.net is your friend for an amazing amount of info on rifle's history and "industrial history" (which parts/styles come from which factories and eras).
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