M48 Bolt Hard to Open

[RiflemanZ]

So I have this M48 from Wideners I got a while back. The rifle is in generally good condition. I had nearly all the bluing scrubbed off back when it was new so possible used as a parade rifle??? Anyway, the bolt is tough to open when not fired. I can't open it from my shoulder and have to bring it down and give it a nice hard jerk in order to open it. I don't see any rough spots on any of the parts and no burrs or pits or scratches either. So I'm thinking maybe the firing pin spring is just extremely strong??

Any insight into this issue is greatly appreciated!

[knucklehead0202]

does it open easily when fired?

[NOTABIKER]

i had extractor and ejector problems with the one i had. removing the ejector and cleaning the cosmo out of it fixed the ejecting problem. the feed problem with the rim of the shell not sliding under the extractor claw was never 100% fixed. sorry my info is not related to your M-48 problem. maybe it is. good luck .

[Crunch130]

That's a basic problem with an 1890's German design, when high craftsmanship was the norm, being manufactured by 1950's communist labor. The fit and finish is not as good, so the M48's tend to have gritty or stiff actions.

Put a glove on your right hand and sit there and cycle it for a few hours while watching TV. It should break in a bit.

Crunch

[OpenSightsOnly]

Why don't you take the firing pin assembly off the bolt.

Put the bolt back into the receiver and work the bolt to see if there is a bind.

Yes a heavier firing pin spring can do that. Folks normally replace the firing pin spring as a solution for a cartridge that fails to fire.

With Yugo 8mm surplus ammo from the '50's the primers are very hard and seated a bit deeper.

So I have this M48 from Wideners I got a while back. The rifle is in generally good condition. I had nearly all the bluing scrubbed off back when it was new so possible used as a parade rifle??? Anyway, the bolt is tough to open when not fired. I can't open it from my shoulder and have to bring it down and give it a nice hard jerk in order to open it. I don't see any rough spots on any of the parts and no burrs or pits or scratches either. So I'm thinking maybe the firing pin spring is just extremely strong??

Any insight into this issue is greatly appreciated!

[RiflemanZ]

Thanks for all the replies gentlemen. It is just as difficult to open when firing as it is when unloaded and cleaned. The only area thats really being a problem is when lifting the bolt handle up before I rack it back. It closes fine.

I've gone through and disassembled the bolt completely and ran it through the motions adding back 1 part at a time. The only time there an issue is when it's completely assembled and lifting that bolt handle. So far the rifle has about 100rds through it by me. So I guess just keep working it and shooting it??
I guess Il also throw in the Wolf 22lb spring, since I don't shoot any surplus out of it, only reloads, I figure it's worth the test.

[Capybara]

Guys, is this really typical for an M48? I am thinking of buying one but I could switch to a 24/47 easily of this is a prevalent issue with the M48. Guess I am spoiled by the smooth as silk bolt on my 1937 Turkish Mauser.

[OpenSightsOnly]

Replacing the original spring will not do anything . . . .

You need some lapping compound on the mating area of the cocking piece and bolt sleeve. That will take a while to burnish the surface.

For a 60+ year old milsurp, for me, that's normal. Take it for what it is - shoot it and have fun.

If I were you, I'd use that mauser and show up in a Garand match. Go to the CMP website and look for a CMP-affiliated club, in your area, that offers a Garand match.

Thanks for all the replies gentlemen. It is just as difficult to open when firing as it is when unloaded and cleaned. The only area thats really being a problem is when lifting the bolt handle up before I rack it back. It closes fine.

I've gone through and disassembled the bolt completely and ran it through the motions adding back 1 part at a time. The only time there an issue is when it's completely assembled and lifting that bolt handle. So far the rifle has about 100rds through it by me. So I guess just keep working it and shooting it??
I guess Il also throw in the Wolf 22lb spring, since I don't shoot any surplus out of it, only reloads, I figure it's worth the test.

[Sailormilan2]

One of the reason the Turk is as smooth as it is, is because it has been used more. All the parts are smoothed by constant usage. Most of the Yugo's never got the use of most other Mauser's. Most were made, used a bit, and packed away. Everybody was switching to semi and full autos.
Standard Mauser spring weight is 19#. Going to a higher weight Wolf will not help. Since the Yugo bolt is 1/4" shorter than a standard 98 bolt, an extra power spring will be compressed even more and cause the bolt effort to go up even more. Stick with a standard weight Mauser spring.

[RiflemanZ]

Replacing the original spring will not do anything . . . .

You need some lapping compound on the mating area of the cocking piece and bolt sleeve. That will take a while to burnish the surface.

For a 60+ year old milsurp, for me, that's normal. Take it for what it is - shoot it and have fun.

If I were you, I'd use that mauser and show up in a Garand match. Go to the CMP website and look for a CMP-affiliated club, in your area, that offers a Garand match.

So to get this straight, I just apply some lapping compound (grit??) onto the contact areas where the cocking piece/ shroud meets the bolt body? So apply some to the end of the bolt body where the shroud slips on and then run it back and forth a million times until smooth? I just want to get this correct before I go playing with this stuff lol.

[Sailormilan2]

There are a couple of other things that can cause difficulty in bolt opening/closing on the Mauser.
How easily does the bolt shroud rotate on the bolt? A tight shroud can cause problems. Also, if the bolt lock drags that can cause problems. The bolt lock is the "push button" that protrudes from the face of the shroud. If it hasn't been fitted properly, or if someone put the wrong bolt shroud on the wrong bolt, that could possibly cause those problems.
The thing to do, is to eliminate each item, one at a time. Since you say that the bolt works fine without the shroud installed, take the firing pin/spring/cocking piece out of the shroud. Screw the shroud back on, and see how the bolt works. If the stiffness is gone, then it is in the cocking piece or spring. My vote is the spring.
If the stiffness is still there, then it is either the shroud or the bolt lock. If the shroud unscrews/screws on easily, then more than likely it isn't the shroud. So, removed the bolt lock (carefull it is under spring pressure). If everything works without the lock in place, then you know it is a misfitted bolt lock.

[RiflemanZ]

There are a couple of other things that can cause difficulty in bolt opening/closing on the Mauser.
How easily does the bolt shroud rotate on the bolt? A tight shroud can cause problems. Also, if the bolt lock drags that can cause problems. The bolt lock is the "push button" that protrudes from the face of the shroud. If it hasn't been fitted properly, or if someone put the wrong bolt shroud on the wrong bolt, that could possibly cause those problems.
The thing to do, is to eliminate each item, one at a time. Since you say that the bolt works fine without the shroud installed, take the firing pin/spring/cocking piece out of the shroud. Screw the shroud back on, and see how the bolt works. If the stiffness is gone, then it is in the cocking piece or spring. My vote is the spring.
If the stiffness is still there, then it is either the shroud or the bolt lock. If the shroud unscrews/screws on easily, then more than likely it isn't the shroud. So, removed the bolt lock (carefull it is under spring pressure). If everything works without the lock in place, then you know it is a misfitted bolt lock.

Ok so based on these instructions I'm leaning towards it being the spring. There is plenty of free movement with the metal on metal parts. I do see some small milling "oopses" but it's nothing that would catch or drag.
So I guess the best remedy is to just use it a lot, wear the spring in naturally.

Thanks a lot for all the help guys! If anyone else has any ideas I'm still all ears

[SFBA]

I have two M48, one operates smooth as butter, the other difficult when locking a round and also on the release. On the bolt, the two locking tabs, one of them required filing down. To determine the pressure points on the bolt, use a Sharpie and color the tabs. Open and close it a few times and the Sharpie will rub off and will ultimately determine where to file. I have tried switching pin springs between the two rifles and determined it was the machining tolerance of the tabs that made the difference. Good luck.

[Sailormilan2]

I have two M48, one operates smooth as butter, the other difficult when locking a round and also on the release. On the bolt, the two locking tabs, one of them required filing down. To determine the pressure points on the bolt, use a Sharpie and color the tabs. Open and close it a few times and the Sharpie will rub off and will ultimately determine where to file. I have tried switching pin springs between the two rifles and determined it was the machining tolerance of the tabs that made the difference. Good luck.

SFBA, I didn't think of the ends of the lugs rubbing. To the OP, mark the ends of the bolt's locking lugs with a Sharpie, and then work the bolt up and down a few times. Check the ends of the lugs to see if they are rubbing inside the receiver. The Yugos made some nice stuff, but their max/min tolerences sometimes left something to be desired.

[RiflemanZ]

Based on what Im seeing I don't think the lugs are rubbing, and if they were aren't they case hardened so messing with them is a bad thing??