extras for a garand.

[Baboosh]

Only thing you really need is replace the Op Rod spring with one from Orion 7, grease and eventually a chamber brush. You dont need any fancy tool to remove gas screw.
Look in you toolbox for a 1/4 inch drive ratchet and extension. It fits prefecty into the cross slot style plug and tightens better than a combo tool

It's not to remove the gas plug it's so you don't tweak things while removing or installing the gas plug.

[mark501w]

Gas plug tool also has the bolt tool & is a handle for your GI cleaning kit.

[Lone_Gunman]

Don't bother with those plastic ratcheting chamber brushes either. Spend the money and buy the USGI chamber brush tool. I broke 2 of those cheap plastic pieces of junk before I got smart and bought the USGI tool. If you're going to buy an Orion7 spring (and I would) throw a clip latch spring in too. They're only a couple of bucks, and if you need one it would be nice to have it and not worry about ordering it.
The gas cylinder wrench http://www.fulton-armory.com/gascyli...nchgarand.aspx is only $10 from Fulton. It keeps you from tweaking the barrel or splines when tightening or loosening the gas plug or when adjusting the front sight for windage.

It wouldn't be a bad idea to pick up a firing pin, extractor & spring, and ejector & spring.
A cleaning kit to go in the buttstock is cool to have, but not absolutely necessary.

A Holbrook device is a cool mod, if you want to control when the en block ejects, or if you want to retain the clips. http://m1thumbsaver.com/

As far as NEED, you need clips, a good grease (mobil 1 synthetic), and an oprod spring from Orion7 or Garandgear.com. Some guys don't replace the oprod springs out of the box, but the guys over at the CMP forum recommend doing so.

[Orlando]

It's not to remove the gas plug it's so you don't tweak things while removing or installing the gas plug.

I understand completly
A gas cylinder lock wrench is for holding gas lock so it reduces strain on the barrel splines will removing or tightening the gas screw. You dont actually have to have one, you shouldnt be removing the gas cylinder that often anyway. You can always wrap the gas lock with a piece of leather , rubber etc and hold it with a pair of channel locks, vice grips etc
I was commenting on you dont need to buy a gas screw tool ( there are companies that make them commercially) and it can be difficult to properly tighten with a large screwdriver or combo tool. 1/4 inch drive works great and you can get plenty of leverage with it
If you dont build garands as I do and dont have multiple rifles there really isnt any reason to buy all the extra specilized tools when you can get buy with whats in your tool box. Safe the money for what you really need, ammo!
Just my opinion, yours may vary

[metalliman545]

Not a citizen. CMP not an option.

wait what?

[Full Clip]

Really? The Navy chambered the Garand in 7.62x51

HAHAHAH, well, yeah, of course they did.

[Paltik]

The gas plug is easy to remove or adjust with a 1/4" ratchet. The gas cylinder wrench is for holding the gas cylinder while you use the ratchet to remove the plug, as well as for safely removing the entire gas cylinder, including the attached plug and front sight. Sometimes I get confused over to which people are referring.

The only parts you really need are the en bloc clips (best deal is from CMP when they're in stock) and a sling. A Shuster gas plug lets you make adjustments for any modern ammo. You'll need to have grease in your cleaning kit to go with the oil you no doubt already have.

For detail stripping, you'll need a brass punch and the cylinder wrench; you might also like one of the tools that helps with assembly and dis-assembly of the bolt. But don't expect to detail strip much. The bolt tool is probably overkill, but the M10 or the M3A1 multi-tools are more versatile.

For your range bag you might like either a firing pin, extractor, extractor sprint, ejector, and ejector spring, or a complete head-spaced bolt assembly, and a spare oprod spring.

[Kablemodem]

Some guys don't replace the oprod springs out of the box, but the guys over at the CMP forum recommend doing so.

I received a CMP Special on Thursday and a HRA SGS yesterday. I replaced the op rod spring on the Special because it didn't seem to be handling dummy rounds properly. I didn't change the spring in the SGS. I took both to the range today and the Special shot beautifully. It only took minor adjustments to get it in the black at 100 yards.

The SGS gave me some trouble. There were a few times where the sixth round didn't go into the chamber - it would nose up and left. I don't know if this was because of the spring, but I am going to change it before I shoot it again. It was also difficult to get it sighted in, but I did eventually. The op rod is really tight and the rifle does not pass the tilt test. I can't get the op rod off the rifle unless I take the gas cylinder off. It's probably binding somewhere and now that I have shot it I will look for rubbing on the stock.

Sorry to hijack. This was supposed to be about springs.

[Pmoore87]

Blasphemy! IMO Garand is 30-06.

+1 for this. A correct Garand will always be 30-06 to me.

They were originally designed as a 270 right?

[RugerNo1]

.276 Pederson was for the original T1 design during 1928 testing.

[Pmoore87]

Thanks
Dane

.276 Pederson was for the original T1 design during 1928 testing.