CalGuns Swiss Rifle Central

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Typical shooting range sound deadening system for areas of Switzerland that are surrounded by homes or businesses.

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Why such a narrow scope rail for the K31?

If you try converting to a Weaver mount, the k31 ejecting straigt up will allow the case to hit the Weaver rail and/or Scope and drop right back into the receiver. Further, it will skin your knuckles on the right side when cycling the bolt.
The SP rail is Mfg'd the way it is for a reason. Clearance, and I know all about the mount that is a Drill/Tap on to of the receiver. We've made them here too as prototypes, but our philosophy is that if we design something that will not function 100% of the time, we're not going to produce it.

These photos were put together by Guisan showing the function of our mounts.











And, no............ your POI change will not be discernable between 100 and 300 yards if you zero the rifle at 100 yards. The offset is not enough for a good shooter to see any marked difference. At 400 and 500 yards you will still be in a heart kill-zone on game. .................. etc.

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Diopters

This is the production model.





The Diopter clamps to the right side of the ejection port requiring no alteration to the rifle. It comes complete with front sight.

It shoots from 75 yards to 1,000+ yards. It's eye relief adjustable at two points on the rail.
It has a Patent Applied For internal double buffer spring system to give it smooth travel the full elevation travel.

This is the Distinguished Naval Marksman who proofed and published the report on the the prototype at Quantico.



This is production model #1 Type P/S Diopter in it's presentation case dedicated to him.

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Sighting in a Diopter.

Sighting in a diopter set

Pre-sight in:
1) Make sure rifle is unloaded.
2) Install diopter set properly on to the rifle. Make sure all the diopter screws are tight.
3) Loosen both action screws and both barrel band screws.
4) Hold rifle vertically with its butt plate against the ground, grab barrel and push towards butt.
5) Tighten front action screw first, then tang screw. Back off tang screw slightly.
6) Tighten front barrel band. Barrel should be centered in stock.
7) Tighten sling barrel band only enough so that the spring dtente can still be moved when you press on it.

Sight in:
1) Get into shooting position with unloaded rifle. Everything you will need to shoot should be within arms reach.
Do not get up or move your elbows too much.
2) Find the best place for your cheek on the stock. You should be fairly close to the safety ring. I use my thumb
as a spacer between the ring and my nose to get the same cheek position time after time. I of course lower my
thumb before firing.
3) Center the front sight hood in rear sight. Should have equal amount of space all around the outside of the front side hood
4) Aim at target, center it in the middle of your front sight ring or on top of the front sight post with a slight gap
between the top of the post and the bottom of the target.
5) You should always be focusing on the front sight, not the target.
6) Dry fire a couple times.
7) Move to the third smallest hole available on the rear diopter sight.
8 ) See how sharp the front post or aperture is.
9) Compare the sharpness of the front sight using smaller and larger rear diopter hole sizes. Look for the clearest
possible setting for the light conditions you have that day.
10) Now you can load the rifle! I just saved you a lot of money in ammo.
11) Keep a sheet of paper and a pencil handy. Keep track of every shot.
12) First shot is a fouler. Write:"1- F", and its clock position.
13) Fire three more shots and write down their clock positions.
14) Estimate where the center of shots 2, 3 and 4 is and correct accordingly. Remember each click is MOA.
15) Repeat from 13 until youre sighted in.

Notes: All of the following are more noticeable as the shooting distance increases.
1) Expect your point of impact to change during the course of the day as the sun changes it position relative to the target.
2) If you change aperture size after sight-in, you most likely will have re-sight it again.
3) Changes in cheek position WILL affect your sighting.
4) Changes in body positions WILL affect you sighting.
5) Do not mix ammo, I always try to use the same lot of ammo in a session, even with GP11.

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Sanctioned Swiss Meet Targets

The table is a 40" x 8' table.

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Sling Positions for Swiss Rifles

Thanks to Guisan!

Note that the sling is used to steady the rifle, not a strong "brace" as in use of the M1 Garand sling.

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Taking care of your Swiss Rifle.

http://www.swissrifles.com/sr/english_k11_k31_manual.pdf

Good idea to download this one.

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Front sight blades? If your rifle is shooting high right out of the gate, this is the solution.



From left to right is lowest to tallest and the middle one is a standard height.
Heights are 5.9, 6.2, 6.5 (standard), 6.8 and 7.1 mm. Changing out a blade by one step moves the POI at 300 meters by 7" (18cm) for a K11 and 6.3" (16cm) for a K31.

The lower row are the normal 1.8mm wide blades, the other rows are the wider ones as used for the senior shooters and for the ZfK55.

Guisan.

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Sight Pictures, Swiss rifles courtesy of Guisan!

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We manufacture brakes. (Note: We don't selll to the public, only through our distributors)
This is a threaded brake. Note the thickness of the Brake wall.





This is a Clamp On Brake



Installed




This is a Damper for reducing group size.



Installed




This is a flash suppressor. A Brennan Nil-Flash that shows zero signature on an ar15 type.
We did the prototype testing on this brake in Lost Prairie during the early 90's.



They're not a brake, and a flash suppressor (combo) is never an efficient brake.

4 years of field testing our own products before production and distribution has proven this over and over ad nauseum.
The chances of any brake reducing group sizes is low and purely co-incidental, however, we have had a few reports of the threaded brake making a difference. This is an involved subject and I'd post it if requested, otherwise what I've given you is based on a very long history of manufacturing, R&D and field testing on both Brakes and Dampers. Essentially, a true, effective Brake must be thick walled right out of the gate. The rearward angle of the ports must have sufficient surface upon which the gases can act. Without that angle and thickness you'd have no forward push on the rifle. Look closely at your zfk55 or AMT, and you'll understand.

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Courtesy of Guisan!

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