M1 Garand irregular ejection

[Sailormilan2]

If it slides, grease it. If it rotates, oil it. CLP is an oil. It is not heavy enough for the Garand. Personally, I use moly based wheel bearing grease. but Lubriplate was the original grease designed for the Garand. Some people like Tetra grease, others swear by Mobil 1 synthetic grease.

[aGunForEachHand]

My M1 has never jammed, FTF, FTE or any other malfunction. I guess lubrication would be the point to start. What lubricants are recommended for the M1?

Grease- this Lubriplate Mil spec grease is IMO the only thing to use on an M1.

Grease:

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=6525/Product/LUBRIPLATE_130_A_MIL__SPEC__GREASE

Grease locations:

http://www.civilianmarksmanship.com/assemblyhtml/reassemblefeed2.html

For the rest of the metal, a light coat of oil is sufficient, but you will definitely want to grease these locations.

[Bhobbs]

Grease- this Lubriplate Mil spec grease is IMO the only thing to use on an M1.

Grease:

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=6525/Product/LUBRIPLATE_130_A_MIL__SPEC__GREASE

Grease locations:

http://www.civilianmarksmanship.com/assemblyhtml/reassemblefeed2.html

For the rest of the metal, a light coat of oil is sufficient, but you will definitely want to grease these locations.

Just ordered a can of Lubriplate and when it gets here I'll make sure to get in on my M1. Plus that will give me an excuse to go shooting to make sure everything works better.

[NotSoFast]

I agree. I understand the DIs could tell if a GI had cleaned his Garand properly or not by where the brass ejected. A clean weapon ejects the brass toward the front. Directly to the side or even to the rear is not lubed enough according to the experts.

[Bhobbs]

If the lubrication doesn't help control the ejection problem then I will just buy the complete spring kit from Orion 7. I heard that is the best kit out there.

[Ross]

I agree. I understand the DIs could tell if a GI had cleaned his Garand properly or not by where the brass ejected. A clean weapon ejects the brass toward the front. Directly to the side or even to the rear is not lubed enough according to the experts.

That's what a old Marine told me too.

Mine drops the brass about 2.5 feet in front and about 6" diameter circle. Sometimes the last round will land about 4 feet in front.

[Bhobbs]

I got the lubriplate and lube my M1 according to the location AGFEH posted. I went shooting on Saturday and the ejection was almost perfect at the 2 o'clock position. It even operated a lot smoother.

Thanks for all the help.

[cmichini]

Not much

What does it take to replace the springs in the bolt and the hammer spring?

The hammer spring is a snap to swap out. Check either on CMP or search the web for garand disassembly instructions.

The springs in the bolt are a little more involved due to the intricate small parts involved. But still very easy to do, just have to be careful not to shoot the springs around the room when the small parts fly from your hands during re-assembly.

Doing it yourself (assuming you don't take big tools to the job) won't hurt the parts and you'll have a more intricate/complete understanding of the workings of the parts.

Good luck.

[M1A Rifleman]

Ok well then whats the best stuff to lubricate an M1? I have talked to people who use gun oil, gun grease, motor oil, bearing grease and just about anything you can imagine.

Grease. Simply use moly fortified auto grease you find at Kragen or Walmart - which is chassis or bearing grease. Apply to the areas outlined in the GI manual. Gun oil will only fling off in face when you shoot.

[Bhobbs]

Grease. Simply use moly fortified auto grease you find at Kragen or Walmart - which is chassis or bearing grease. Apply to the areas outlined in the GI manual. Gun oil will only fling off in face when you shoot.

I picked up some mil spec grease from Brownell's.

[EOD Guy]

That's what a old Marine told me too.

Mine drops the brass about 2.5 feet in front and about 6" diameter circle. Sometimes the last round will land about 4 feet in front.

Generally, the last ejected case will end up to the right rear since the op rod locks back and doesn't knock the brass to the front.

[Bhobbs]

Generally, the last ejected case will end up to the right rear since the op rod locks back and doesn't knock the brass to the front.

I noticed that about mine as well. The last case was always ejected to the right or even back a little.