Building A Custom Mauser...

[5hundo]

I was thinking about trying to build a nice target rifle out of an old mauser, like a VZ-24 or a Yugo M48. I've been looking at some barrels on Brownells and saw that they have replacement barrels in 22-250 and 6.5x55mm. Either one of those calibers would be nice to have. I've seen great accuracy out of my stepbrother's 22-250 and the 6.5 Swedish Mausers are notoriously accurate, as well. Since I've never done this, I wanted to pick some brains about what considerations I should make before doing this.

Is 22-250 too small for the original Mauser bolt? Will I have to modify the extractor or other components of the bolt as well?

Will the magazine still work with the much smaller 22-250 cases?

I'm guessing the 6.5x55mm will be directly compatible with the original 8mm components (after I change the barrel, of course). Is that an incorrect assumption?

All opinions welcome! Thanks for you help...

[Crusader]

I'm pretty sure it won't work. The Mauser feed design means that the bolt needs to strip the cartidge out of the magazine. If the round is too small, the claw might not grab on to the smaller 6.5mm round. I also believe that the Swedish Mausers are "small ring" whereas the German and Yugo are "large ring". But I am not positive.

[smle-man]

The Yugo 48 is an intermediate ring. You can get the same performance as the 6.5x55 in the Remington .260. I'd just buy a model 700 in this caliber. You will be suprised at the cost of working up a halfway decent sporter out of an old military rifle. It ain't cheap these days!

[5hundo]

The Yugo 48 is an intermediate ring. You can get the same performance as the 6.5x55 in the Remington .260. I'd just buy a model 700 in this caliber. You will be suprised at the cost of working up a halfway decent sporter out of an old military rifle. It ain't cheap these days!

I know that you're 100% correct about this...

Unfortunately, I happen to be one of those freaks who enjoys working on stuff.

[Sailormilan2]

The 22/250 base is a perfect fit for the Mauser bolt face. Some Mausers may require a spacer added to assist feeding with a short cartridge like the 22/250. Even using the Intermediate M48 action. Mine did(I used an Intermediate Brazilian 1922 action that I purchased as an stripped action and a stripped bolt). The spacer kit can be ordered from Numrich. It has a short follower, spring, and nylon spacer block.
Here is my 22/250, based on an intermediate Brazilian Mauser. I used a Midway Adams and Bennet F34 contour SS barrel, Bold trigger, and Richards MicroFit stock.

[gun toting monkeyboy]

Ok, first, don't be a Bubba. Don't chop up a historical rifle to make a second-rate sporter. And mausers or other military actions are rarely, if ever as accurate as a purpose-built sporting rifle. If you want a gun in a new caliber, I would recommend going out and getting a Stevens Model 200 to play with. It is way easier to rebuild, and will give you better performance. Besides, it is a Savage, and all of the old Savage 110 aftermarket goodies will fit it.

If you are intent on rebuilding a mauser or other old rifle, there are some things to keep in mind. First, find a gun that Bubba and his rusty hacksaw of doom have already had their way with. If some idiot has already chopped the barrel and stock, it is the ideal gun for you to work with. You won't be ruining a piece of history. Second, you need to know what the pressure limits are on the action you will be working with. Many of the older rifles were made to use cartridges that generated 38,000-42,000 cpu. Modern rounds routinely generate 52,000 cpu or more. Significantly more in some cases. I'm sure you can guess what happens to a gun that is not only 50+ years old, but is shot at substantially higher pressures long term. Third, assuming that you have gotten passed 1 and 2, you need to know if the round you want will even fit in the gun without substantial modification. The good news here is that if you are using most of the mausers, many modern rifle rounds, including the .22-250, are based on the basic mauser brass. And will fit the bolt face with no modification. The one exception to this is the 6.5x55, which has a slightly different case head, and may need a bit more work to get it to work.

If you really are intent on doing this, go with a 98 mauser varient like the ones you mentioned. And find one that has already been mangled.

-Mb

[5hundo]

Beautiful...

Ok, first, don't be a Bubba. Don't chop up a historical rifle to make a second-rate sporter.

I was thinking about getting one that had been previously buggered up, or getting one from Century that has been wrecked with those dot-matrix serial numbers. That, or finding a barreled, action/receiver on gunbroker and working up from that...

...but no, I certainly would not wreck an otherwise decent, historical rifle.

[Tho_Sun]

Ok, first, don't be a Bubba. Don't chop up a historical rifle to make a second-rate sporter. And mausers or other military actions are rarely, if ever as accurate as a purpose-built sporting rifle.
-Mb

Don't let others make you feel bad for doing what you want to your rifle.

http://www.surplusrifleforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=82&t=29075&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&sid=207c94ec7bd8860934a2205975fc63e5

Do what you want and stay safe~ If it weren't for people like you, everyone would own the same old Remington 700 sps varmint with a stock like AICS or something. I'd take the mosin from that thread any day over the norm~

[elSquid]

All opinions welcome! Thanks for you help...

Another option is to track down a Zastava commercial import and use that as the base: Remington ( 798/799 ), Charles Daly, and Interarms brought in these rifles under their label.

-- Michael

[gun toting monkeyboy]

Don't let others make you feel bad for doing what you want to your rifle.

http://www.surplusrifleforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=82&t=29075&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&sid=207c94ec7bd8860934a2205975fc63e5

Do what you want and stay safe~ If it weren't for people like you, everyone would own the same old Remington 700 sps varmint with a stock like AICS or something. I'd take the mosin from that thread any day over the norm~

Yes, but did you read the first couple of lines from the post you linked to? He specifically said that he took a junker to start with. I don't have a problem with people sporterizing junk. I do have a problem with people taking a minty Smith Corona and chopping it up to look like the latest tacti-cool remachester knock off. Which I have seen happen. Know what you are chopping up before you mangle an irreplaceable firearm. That is all I am saying.

-Mb

[Gunaria]

You can always buy my Swedish Mauser that I have for sale. Then buy one of them drop in triggers and be done with it.

[5hundo]

You can always buy my Swedish Mauser that I have for sale. Then buy one of them drop in triggers and be done with it.

Did you post pics?

I can't see them from where I'm at, if you did...

Even still, I'd like to have a 22-250 too...

[jamesob]

i built a 30-06 off a turk mauser a few years ago and it shoots great. it has a 1" stainless fluted barrel, timmney trigger, turned bolt, ramline stock and a really cheap scope (bushnell pro hunter). the problem i had was that the turk is based on a lg ring but has small ring threads, so i had the barrel re threaded to small ring.

[knucklehead0202]

i'd buy a swede mauser, a sporter if you can find one, and stick to it. 22-250 is neat, but a notorious barrel-burner, whereas with the 6.5 you can enjoys years and years and thousands of rounds through it. my swede sporter(it came that way) is one of my favorite rifles, among many old milsurps including an original swede mauser as well. 6.5 is a disgustingly accurate round, especially through a '96 mauser, and carries enough energy downrange to knock down most anything you'd want to shoot at. ammo isn't too expensive and handloading can produce some impressive results. ultimately, do what gets you off and the hell with anybody who tries to make you feel like a jerk. good luck in your quest.

[Kahouna]

I had a beat-up Turk that didn't have much going for it. I had built most toys except a Mauser. I highly recommend doing your research before you undertake the project. Mine cost me in parts and tools (reamer, taps, etc) more than a cheap 700, but it is my abomination. If you take this on, be patient and do each step right or it can cost you.

Here it is in 6.5.