1914 dated Winchester M1897 Takedown Model 12GA, Info requested

[jl7422]

I regularly shoot one made in 1900. I like to use the Winchester Min. Load 12 Ga. ammo. Every now and then they'll get a carton of it at my local Walmart--but the big sports stores have it on a regular basis. Lightest 12 gauge commercial loads going, and it hits fine for me.

[deoxys987]

Mine was pretty nasty, rusty, dirty when I got it hadn't been shot in ?? years. Cleaned and lubed her up, tried to repair the stock (wood glue, clamps), and went shooting. If she locks up tight, and functions well with dummy shells I'd shoot it. If your uneasy about it, have some one look at it. The tube sounds like something is behind the follower, maybe a dowel to limit the mag capacity for hunting?

BINGO! Culprit was a wooden dowel in the mag tube limiting my capacity to 2+1. Must have been a duck gun. Its been removed and i now have my 5+1 Good thinking Pyro!! You were spot on!

[TRAP55]

Serial # 578712 was made in Jan-Feb of 1913.

[TRAP55]

Keep in mind that when it was made, only brass and paper hulls were made. It's chambered for 2.75", but the actual chambers were a bit shorter then. Shells then were made with a roll crimp to hold a cardboard wad on top of the shot.
Modern plastic hulls have a star crimp, and are longer when fired. When fired in these old 97's, the crimp is opening into the forcing cone causing a short pressure spike. Nothing to really worry about using low base, low pressure loads.
Smiths that specialize in tuning these for SASS matches will recommend opening and lengthening the forcing cone. It's worth the money, it'll reduce felt recoil, improve the pattern, and less stress on the gun.
BTW...fix and refinish the buttstock, and glass bed it to the receiver. It'll be original, and won't break again.

[golfish]

Nice score neighbor. Thanks for sharing

[deoxys987]

Keep in mind that when it was made, only brass and paper hulls were made. It's chambered for 2.75", but the actual chambers were a bit shorter then. Shells then were made with a roll crimp to hold a cardboard wad on top of the shot.
Modern plastic hulls have a star crimp, and are longer when fired. When fired in these old 97's, the crimp is opening into the forcing cone causing a short pressure spike. Nothing to really worry about using low base, low pressure loads.
Smiths that specialize in tuning these for SASS matches will recommend opening and lengthening the forcing cone. It's worth the money, it'll reduce felt recoil, improve the pattern, and less stress on the gun.
BTW...fix and refinish the buttstock, and glass bed it to the receiver. It'll be original, and won't break again.

All the databases i've seen showed it in 1914 by the serial number, is there another one with different information by any chance? And i wasnt planning on shooting anything hot through it, probably just standard winchester target #8 shot through it at the hottest. I may send it in to get the chamber reamed down the road if I see it may be beneficial. Any tips on how to properly repair the stock? I havent really seen a good how to, for removing the stock.

[deoxys987]

Nice score neighbor. Thanks for sharing

Thank you neighbor! Nice to see someone from my town on here!

[highpower]

I like the old '97's. Mine started life as a riot gun and was converted to a trench gun sometime around WWII or shortly thereafter. I don't shoot it too much any more, but I have used the #8 target loads in it with no apparent ill effects. It is interesting to note that the military load for these was 00 buck.

[deoxys987]

I like the old '97's. Mine started life as a riot gun and was converted to a trench gun sometime around WWII or shortly thereafter. I don't shoot it too much any more, but I have used the #8 target loads in it with no apparent ill effects. It is interesting to note that the military load for these was 00 buck.

Do you have a specific ammo you use for #8 / 00 Buck that works well? I've heard a lot of different answers to this.

[highpower]

Do you have a specific ammo you use for #8 / 00 Buck that works well? I've heard a lot of different answers to this.

For #8 shot, I just use Dove and Quail loads. I can't remember the brand of 00 buck I used, but it didn't seem to hurt anything. My gun was made in 1917, so it is roughly the same age as yours.

The brass cased military stuff is too collectable/expensive to shoot so I couldn't give you a comparison in felt recoil.

[deoxys987]

For #8 shot, I just use Dove and Quail loads. I can't remember the brand of 00 buck I used, but it didn't seem to hurt anything. My gun was made in 1917, so it is roughly the same age as yours.

The brass cased military stuff is too collectable/expensive to shoot so I couldn't give you a comparison in felt recoil.

Alright, i was just told just not to use any magnum/steel shot. And also that it'd be a good idea to get ammo thats 1200fps or less, nothing too hot for it. Have you had any issues with ammo at all in yours? I know some people get their chamber reamed out a bit to help.

[highpower]

Alright, i was just told just not to use any magnum/steel shot. And also that it'd be a good idea to get ammo thats 1200fps or less, nothing too hot for it. Have you had any issues with ammo at all in yours? I know some people get their chamber reamed out a bit to help.

No issues with mine, but then the barrel is a military WWII item. I just always use 2 3/4" shells.

[TRAP55]

All the databases i've seen showed it in 1914 by the serial number, is there another one with different information by any chance? And i wasnt planning on shooting anything hot through it, probably just standard winchester target #8 shot through it at the hottest. I may send it in to get the chamber reamed down the road if I see it may be beneficial. Any tips on how to properly repair the stock? I havent really seen a good how to, for removing the stock.

On the DOM, read my intro to the thread on page one:

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=410211

To remove the buttstock, remove the butt plate screws, and you'll see a round hole in the stock. At the bottom of that is a slotted screw. Remove that, and wiggle the stock side to side as you pull it to the rear.
Here's the factory manual for your 97, with disassembly instructions and pics.

http://stevespages.com/pdf/winchester_97.pdf

When you get it off, get some close ups of the crack inside and out. Do the repairs on the inside. It was tedious, but I walked Enfield47 through a restoration and repairs on his P-14 stock. Repair principles are the same. Post #36 in that thread shows a similar crack repair.

https://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=857237