I had a CMMG 10.5" upper with a 5.5" FH welded on, it was awesome. I sold the rifle, but im sure I can find a pic somewhere.
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CAR-15/XM-177 Copy. what do you guys think?
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With my feet upon the ground, I move myself between the sound and Open wide to suck it in I feel It move across my skin -
Outside diameter is too small. The slots should be eliptical. Something else doesn't look right, but I can't put my finger on it....
Ahhh..the rear portion is wrong:
Put 3-5 slots on top, none on bottom so it will remain undisputed as a compensator. Make it as close to real as possible. The few commercial slip-overs do not replicate the look of the original.
The original "modulator" was a semi baffled affair that diffused the sound signature somewhat...but enough so for the ATF to flag it as a suppressor/silencer.
Make it real looking, and I'll be first in line for one"A nation can survive its fools, and even the ambitious. But it cannot survive treason from within. An enemy at the gates is less formidable, for he is known and carries his banner openly. But the traitor moves amongst those within the gate freely, his sly whispers rustling through all the alleys, heard in the very halls of government itself...A murderer is less to fear. The traitor is the plague."......CiceroComment
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Bushmaster's 4.5" is the closest you get now as Total Silence is no-more.
The problem with the bushmaster is that it comes with a small step that does not belong.
This is visible in the third picture below.
The small step looks like a lockwasher or crush washer between the grenade ring and the flash hider.
The 4th picture shows the bushmaster 4.5" after I trim off the step.
The main reason why your "slip-over" project will never really look right is that the barrel is too large in diameter.
You need to be working with a lightweight barrel from the start.
Randall Rausch
AR work: www.ar15barrels.com
Bolt actions: www.700barrels.com
Foreign Semi Autos: www.akbarrels.com
Barrel, sight and trigger work on most pistols and shotguns.
Most work performed while-you-wait.Comment
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Outside diameter is too small. The slots should be eliptical. Something else doesn't look right, but I can't put my finger on it....
Ahhh..the rear portion is wrong:
Put 3-5 slots on top, none on bottom so it will remain undisputed as a compensator. Make it as close to real as possible. The few commercial slip-overs do not replicate the look of the original.
The original "modulator" was a semi baffled affair that diffused the sound signature somewhat...but enough so for the ATF to flag it as a suppressor/silencer.
Make it real looking, and I'll be first in line for one
Anyone know the diameter of the original barrels? They look kinda thin to me.
Yeah, it looks like I cut the grenade ring conical on the wrong side from AR15barrels' pics. That original pic I posted, it looks like he had it on backwards.
I don't have to worry about the slots because they don't go all the way through. It doesn't extend past the muzzle, except maybe an 1/8 to protect the crown. The idea was to have a cool looking thread protector, not a slipover flash hider, though I may try to make one.FreeLock Mini Conversion Kit
http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/s...d.php?t=155147
FreeLock Bullet-Button Installation and Removal Tool
http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/s...64#post1749664
The M.L.D. (Magazine Locking Device)
http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/s...hlight=VamfireComment
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Yeah, when I get some more $$ scraped up.
All I really need is just a ring of steel that has an O.D. about .003" smaller than the ID of the hider, then Ill just heat the hider w/a torch, slip the ring in and weld it in place with 2 plug welds. THen the hider will still sorta look right but the slots wont go all the way through.
Until I get that done Im stuck with a fixed 10rd mag... once I get the hider figured out I can go to detachable w/MMG
Ill PM you so we dont clutter the thread.
JComment
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Randall Rausch
AR work: www.ar15barrels.com
Bolt actions: www.700barrels.com
Foreign Semi Autos: www.akbarrels.com
Barrel, sight and trigger work on most pistols and shotguns.
Most work performed while-you-wait.Comment
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The M4's 203 cut is original barrel diameter.
The cut was required as the M203 itself was not redesigned for the A2. The cut allows the original forward clamp to work correctly. This is also why A2 barrels are stepped before the front sight tower, as the M203 will clamp to standard barrels behind the tower."A nation can survive its fools, and even the ambitious. But it cannot survive treason from within. An enemy at the gates is less formidable, for he is known and carries his banner openly. But the traitor moves amongst those within the gate freely, his sly whispers rustling through all the alleys, heard in the very halls of government itself...A murderer is less to fear. The traitor is the plague."......CiceroComment
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The M4's 203 cut is original barrel diameter.
The cut was required as the M203 itself was not redesigned for the A2. The cut allows the original forward clamp to work correctly. This is also why A2 barrels are stepped before the front sight tower, as the M203 will clamp to standard barrels behind the tower.
A1's and A2's are right at 0.600" before they step-up behind the FSB.
A1's step to 0.75 and A2's step to 0.85
M203 steps are 0.610" on genuine Colt M4 barrels.
The scale drawing below shows the location of the M203 cut in relation to A1/A2 barrels.
Randall Rausch
AR work: www.ar15barrels.com
Bolt actions: www.700barrels.com
Foreign Semi Autos: www.akbarrels.com
Barrel, sight and trigger work on most pistols and shotguns.
Most work performed while-you-wait.Comment
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Great work! Looks great. Post pics of the 2nd build when you are done.FB BRD Fan Page
"An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it." - J. Cooper
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