(The Results) I'm ready to step into the tactical precision rifle world

[postal]

A milling reticle is handy but not necessary.

I disagree.

Especially a more modern mildot with 1/2 mil marks.

Then you have your choice of dialing for elevation/wind, or very easy and accurate holdovers using the references in the mil scale. That is FAR FAR more important and highly used, than actually 'ranging distance'- (though you can)

The comps I go to, there's always at least one stage you need to hold over. (switching near and far targets under time. no time to dial the scope back and forth) This is **EASY** with good charts, and a mil type reticle ( a mil dot master for conversion if using a mil/moa scope is a must to figure out the hold too)

[cHaOs ReX]

Based on everyone's feedback (Thank you very much by the way) I'm looking at the following

Vortex Viper
4-16 or 6.5-20
Mil Dot

I'll skip the break for now.

As far as ammo, I've already taken baby steps into the reloading world. I actually have several Lee Classic loaders for the weapons I currently own less the .22 and my shotguns. Though so far the most I've done is collect a crap load of brass and de-capped and cleaned a couple hundred 5.56 cases. Haven't gotten to a gun show yet to get powered and primers. I plan on purchasing a Lee Anni press kit very soon.

[CobraRed]

Based on everyone's feedback (Thank you very much by the way) I'm looking at the following

Vortex Viper
4-16 or 6.5-20
Mil Dot

I'll skip the break for now.

As far as ammo, I've already taken baby steps into the reloading world. I actually have several Lee Classic loaders for the weapons I currently own less the .22 and my shotguns. Though so far the most I've done is collect a crap load of brass and de-capped and cleaned a couple hundred 5.56 cases. Haven't gotten to a gun show yet to get powered and primers. I plan on purchasing a Lee Anni press kit very soon.

You'll be happy with either of those choices. I've use the Viper 6.5-20 on top of an AR and liked the glass overall.

BTW, people here will give you a hard time if you refer to a brake as a break. Just remember it slows down your recoil, therefore braking like a car.

[postal]

Reloading is the only way to go. You can make ammo more accurate than anything you can buy. It also costs maybe 75 cents per round or less compared to $1.20 per round or more for factory match ammo.

If you can swing $1,100 for a scope, I really really highly recommend the bushnell tactical elite 3.5-21 g2 dmr... It is a really high quality scope with outstanding features you normally pay well over 2x's as much from any other brand.

If you're not able to go that high, the vortex is good.

If you need something on a budget... the nikon 4.5-14 buckmaster is 'livable'... I've made due for a few years, but early next year, I'm getting the bushy DAMMITT!!!!

Badger thruster brake is not very expensive, and a good brake. You should be able to find it in the threads that match your rifle. They're like $70 ish. Recoil on a 308 is not bad. My GF LOVES my 308... with no brake.... but the brake not only softens the recoil, it keeps you on target. Went to the range today, and she shot my brothers 308 with a badger FTE brake... and she keeps telling me how much she likes *that* rifle... "the rifle doesnt move!"

FTE is about double the price of the thruster. The thruster is still good though. And worth it. You will need a crush washer to 'time it' or have a gunsmith time it for you which might be about $50?

You dont 'need' a brake... but they're nice to have.

[cHaOs ReX]

BTW, people here will give you a hard time if you refer to a brake as a break. Just remember it slows down your recoil, therefore braking like a car.

I did say

admittedly I don't know enough about muzzle breaks/comps

But thank you for correcting me.

Now I know and knowing is half the battle!

[cHaOs ReX]

If you can swing $1,100 for a scope, I really really highly recommend the bushnell tactical elite 3.5-21 g2 dmr... It is a really high quality scope with outstanding features you normally pay well over 2x's as much from any other brand.

Yeah $1,100 is way beyond my glass budget right now but I'll keep my eye out for one while I'm scavenging in the post apocalyptic world.

I'll keep my eye open for that brake as well.

Thank you.

[ar15barrels]

I'm getting the bushy DAMMITT!!!!

Famous last words...

The thruster is still good though. And worth it. You will need a crush washer to 'time it' or have a gunsmith time it for you which might be about $50?

I get $10 to time a brake if it's just a matter of facing the brake and it's easy to hold in the lathe.
Thrusters need to be profiled to blend to the barrel to look good.

I would get a Ross Schuler brake that's already tapered on the back to blend to the barrel.
Then I would index it in the lathe so there's no ugly washers or shims.

[postal]

HAHAA!!!!

I'm poor..... It'll take a few months.... but I'll get the bushy!

After that, is a rebarrel and thruster you're going to install.

I'll trade you a guitar for the bushy... just not the double neck!

[sigstroker]

Forget the damn brake! I wouldn't get one if it was free. It directs noise and blast back at you. You don't need that.

Also, people seem to be ignoring the OP. He wants a zombie gun. Match ammo? Forget it. He wants something that expands. Mil dots vs non? Forget it, get a cheap laser rangefinder. He doesn't have to follow any rules and doesn't have to worry about enemy detecting the laser.

[cHaOs ReX]

Forget the damn brake! I wouldn't get one if it was free. It directs noise and blast back at you. You don't need that.

Also, people seem to be ignoring the OP. He wants a zombie gun. Match ammo? Forget it. He wants something that expands. Mil dots vs non? Forget it, get a cheap laser rangefinder. He doesn't have to follow any rules and doesn't have to worry about enemy detecting the laser.

I never said anything about zombies. I'm thinking hostile militias, gangs or maybe mutants in case of post nuclear war.

So enemies detecting a laser would be a concern.

I think my 10/22 would be great for the traditional zombie anyway. A .22 LR rattling around in a zombie's brain pan should do the trick much more economically than a .308.

[postal]

A 308 doesnt 'need one'....

But they give you far faster followup shot since you're still on target. And when people advance in marksmanship, they can actually spot their impacts at a much closer range using a brake.

For a 'zombie gun' it isnt necessary. For a serious precision rifle competitor it is.

[postal]

Apocalypse.... zombies.... whats the difference?

Your sig clearly states 'apocalypse'.

Most of us giving you advice actually shoot Precision Rifle comps for fun and to learn. To improve.

It doesnt matter how fancy your rifle is if you dont know how to use it efficiently, correctly, precisely. If you want a rifle for this role, you get whatever the best is you can afford.

Then you need to learn how to shoot it. Just braggin you have one in your safe doesnt mean much.

"I have a les baer custom with a 1.5 guarantee"... but shoot "minute of berm" would be an example. Not an insult mind you. An example of what I'm talking about. It doesnt matter whats in the safe. How well can a person use the tools in the toolbox? this takes a lot of practice, and dedication.

[FMJBT]

If you can swing around $750.00 for optics, the Bushnell 3-12X44 FFP would be a good option. It's available with many of the same reticles found in the more expensive 3.5-21X50 HDMR scopes, including the excellent G2DMR mil based reticle. The 12X magnification would be more than adequate for your 500 yard intended range. Way more than adequate. Contrary to popular belief, there is such a thing as too much magnification. 20X at 500 yards on a tactical rifle is too much magnification, IMHO. I've easily shot torso sized steel plates at that range, and out to 650 yards using a 4X Leatherwood CMR.... For a tactical rifle, I'd go with less magnification and a wider field of view, especially if you are going to be acting as your own spotter. Keeping a target within the scopes field of view at 20X is obviously going to be twice as difficult as keeping it in view at 10X. A good rule of thumb to follow for magnification, especially when shooting in a dynamic environment where targets may be moving, you may be moving, or you have to transition rapidly between multiple targets, is to increase magnification 1X per every 100 yards of distance to the target.

[wang949]

Apocalypse...? A rifle will not help you.

[cHaOs ReX]

Apocalypse...? A rifle will not help you.

Thanks wang for a very helpful post.