(The Results) I'm ready to step into the tactical precision rifle world

[cHaOs ReX]

It's time for me to finish off the apocalypse collection* with a tactical precision rifle.

I've decided to start this tactical precision rifle project with a Remington 700 SPS Tactical AAC-SD (.308 20" threaded barrel).

Since this is my first step into longer distance shooting I'm not looking for a thousand yard weapon system. I'd like to build up to about 500 yards.

I'd like some advice and opinions on what scope, muzzle break/comp and bipod to attach. Let's say my requirements for the scope are

Rugged
500 yards
Low Light
Wolf size targets
Budget around $400 for the scope, $50-100 for rings.

Muzzle break/comp

admittedly I don't know enough about muzzle breaks/comps to make an educated decision here other than I know I want no bottom ports on the break/comp.
$100-200

Bipod

Rugged
Lightweight
Rust resistant (I've heard Harris are rust prone and I'm in the East Bay and take frequent trips north into the snow.)
$100

I plan to put this into a new chassis eventually. Probably a McMillan A5 or similar as I want this to be mag fed, but this is a ways off.

*The apocalypse collection is my attempt at putting together a collection of firearms that can fulfill the various roles of a weapon in a post apocalyptic world, namely hunting and defense. These weapons and their accessories must be rugged enough to deal with harsh environments and treatment. Also, these weapons and their respective ammunition should be common enough that scavenging parts and ammo will be easier.

[RobG]

Your gun choice is solid. But, skip $100-$200 on a brake and use that coin on a better scope. The .308 is no recoil monster and unless you are shooting comps where rapid follow-up shots are needed, its money poorly spent. 500-600 will easily get you a Vortex Viper 6.5-20x50 (non PST). Good glass, solid and repeatable adjustments. Drop it in a set of Seekins lows on a Seekins 20 moa base and call it good.

Bipod is easy; Harris BRM-S with a PodLok. I shoot mine in all weather and have no issue with rust.

[DirtRacer151]

Your gun choice is solid. But, skip $100-$200 on a brake and use that coin on a better scope. The .308 is no recoil monster and unless you are shooting comps where rapid follow-up shots are needed, its money poorly spent. 500-600 will easily get you a Vortex Viper 6.5-20x50 (non PST). Good glass, solid and repeatable adjustments. Drop it in a set of Seekins lows on a Seekins 20 moa base and call it good.

Bipod is easy; Harris BRM-S with a PodLok. I shoot mine in all weather and have no issue with rust.

Solid advice ^

I have 5 harris bipods that have been shot in every type of condition i can think of. Don't recall seeing rust on any of them.

Also a McMillan isnt needed to be mag fed. Pretty much any stock can be inletted to accept a DBM bottom metal. I recommend the A5 though. I have 4 myself!!

[CobraRed]

Your gun choice is solid. But, skip $100-$200 on a brake and use that coin on a better scope. The .308 is no recoil monster and unless you are shooting comps where rapid follow-up shots are needed, its money poorly spent. 500-600 will easily get you a Vortex Viper 6.5-20x50 (non PST). Good glass, solid and repeatable adjustments. Drop it in a set of Seekins lows on a Seekins 20 moa base and call it good.

Bipod is easy; Harris BRM-S with a PodLok. I shoot mine in all weather and have no issue with rust.

Don't need $500-600 to buy a Vortex Viper 6.5-20x50. And even then, he's talking about "up to" 500 yards. 20x is overkill for that.

I'd recommend a SWFA 10x42 or Bushnell Elite 3200 10 power fixed or a 3-9x. Both are pretty cheap. I like some scopes in the $250-400 range, but all the 5,6,700 dollar scope make me think you should just get some of the mainstay names.

As for the Harris bipods, the knurled tightening knob on mine is starting to rust. The rest is fine.

I'd spend a lot of money on ammo/practice or reloading supplies before I bought a expensive brake and stock, though.

[DirtRacer151]

Don't need $500-600 to buy a Vortex Viper 6.5-20x50. And even then, he's talking about "up to" 500 yards. 20x is overkill for that.

I'd recommend a SWFA 10x42 or Bushnell Elite 3200 10 power fixed or a 3-9x. Both are pretty cheap.

More magnification is never a bad thing on a precision rifle. Unless you're using it for hunting where 3x on the low end would be more beneficial then the 20x on a higher power scope.. 6.5 is just fine on the bottom end.

Even though you can shoot to 1000yards with a 10x scope, having 20x makes it really nice for spotting holes in paper or hits on steel at any distance.

Fixed 10x scopes can be effective but the lack of adjustable magnification really limits what you can do with a scope.

I use a 3-9 Leupold VX-R patrol on my hunting AR. 3x works nice on the low end for stalking yet i can dial it up to 9x and shoot paper but its very difficult to spot holes most of the time.

[postal]

I've learned, there is no such thing as "too much magnification".

Sure, depending on weather conditions, mirage will become an issue at really high power.

So what? let that mirage dictate your max magnification. Limiting yourself to low power is a horrible choice for 'precision rifle'.

Trust me- I *KNOW*. I shoot a 4.5-14 right now. It sucks! I need more power. Even 16 or 18 on the top end makes a huge difference over 14.

I'd have a hard time telling someone to go 6x on the low end though. I'd prefer lower power on the low end for unsupported shooting.

Thats whats so fantastic about the bushnell 3.5-21.... Its a perfect range.. But it's more than op wants to spend.

I would never suggest a fixed 10x either. It's too low for long shots, and too high for unsupported. So... what is it good for exactly????

Op wants to go cheap on glass for now... I say nikon buckmaster 4.5-14 side focus. Same thing I run until I can afford the bushnell. For $300 ish- thats really hard to beat.

[CobraRed]

I would never suggest a fixed 10x either. It's too low for long shots, and too high for unsupported. So... what is it good for exactly????

500 yards

I didn't know we're talking about no spotting/spotter. If you need to see where you hit, then get as high as you can afford. But if a 10x vs a 20x at 500 yards is effecting your groups it's not a glass problem IMO.

[cHaOs ReX]

So the Vortex Viper (and other scopes) offer multiple reticles. The optics I'm familiar with at the moment is what's on my AR, Aimpoint Comp M4 and a 3x multiplier.

Since I'm basically starting from scratch here what reticle should I get. Just looking at some of the options the BDC seems pretty easy and logical but I know there is a lot of talk about Mil Dot which looks fairly complicated.

[cHaOs ReX]

Yes this would be unsupported shooting.

[DirtRacer151]

So the Vortex Viper (and other scopes) offer multiple reticles. The optics I'm familiar with at the moment is what's on my AR, Aimpoint Comp M4 and a 3x multiplier.

Since I'm basically starting from scratch here what reticle should I get. Just looking at some of the options the BDC seems pretty easy and logical but I know there is a lot of talk about Mil Dot which looks fairly complicated.

You definitely want a MIL reticle or an MOA reticle. Its really not confusing once you catch on. It's always easier when your turrets match your reticle.
Most lower budget scope don't have matching knobs. They're MOA knobs and MIL reticle which is fine too.

[DirtRacer151]

Yes this would be unsupported shooting.

6x is the highest i'd go on the low end. 20x makes a wold of difference on the top end though.

I usually shoot all my unsupported shots between 6x and 12x depending on the size of the targets and how stable the position is.

I also dial back to lower magnifications for fast shooting (wider field of view to help find multiple targets)

[LCU1670]

I have a swfa SS on a TC venture in 308, does well for me at 500. I have a tripod, but found much more stable on a soft saddle mounted on a pack, so you can save tripod money.

[postal]

Regarding reticle...

As Dirtracer mentioned, matching reticle to knob is ideal. Mil reticle and 1/10 mil adjustment, or moa reticle and moa knobs.

Unfortunately, most scopes that do this are higher priced.

Something based on the mildot, but more modern.. with hash marks at the 1/2 mil point is far more usefull than a standard mil dot. It's not complicated when you understand what you're looking at. Once you do... a mil dot only scope leaves you wishing you had more reference points.

----edit----
A bdc only works if you shoot ammo at the exact same velocity and BC the scope was designed for. Not likely.....

I'll take a straight mil dot reticule over a bdc any day.

[RobG]

A milling reticle is handy but not necessary. A mildot scope looks complicated but really its just a crosshair with dots. Its not as difficult to use as one may think, especially when paired with a Mildot Master. I have done straight 10x all the way to 1k. Sure it works but, why limit yourself to a fixed power? A variable is far more versatile.

[Z33 Josh]

Rob and Dirtracer pretty much answered everything you need to know. I definitely would skip out on the muzzle BRAKE and spend the extra money on a better scope or ammunition.
Remember, a gun is only as good as its shooter. Having a nice gun won't do you any good if your gun is capable of out-shooting your abilities..
So PRACTICE and good luck!

PS - CobraRed, had you of read his whole post and the reasoning behind him buying a precision rifle, you would have known that he never mentioned anything about a spotter .

As far as mil/moa reticles and knobs go, like you've already seen, everyone has their own opinion. Both mil and moa are easy once you get them figured out. My personal advice is to find a scope within your budget that is reliable, has good reviews across the board (one thing to worry about with low budget, variable scopes is blurriness in higher magnifications), and has matching reticle/knobs.