Basic Questions About Building an AR

[Paul von Lettow-Vorbeck]

I've been planning on buying a stripped lower for some time, and with Obama's re-election, I figure now's the time to buy one and build my AR.

With that said, I have some questions.

I've been following this old thread, but wanted to confirm that the following path would work too.

1. Buy a stripped lower from my local gun shop. Since 5.56 is higher pressure than .223, I'd like a receiver capable of handling it. Are there any differences between lower receivers that they'd be able to handle .223 but not 5.56, or are all lowers equal (apart from cosmetic things). If so, are there any brands which offer the best value. From online searches, it looks like I should be paying between $90 and $140. Does this jive with what people have experienced in California (especially with the election and the run up in prices preceding it)? I don't mind paying a fair price, but I don't want to be fleeced.

2. Buy a bullet button. My local gun shop sells bullet-buttons (or at least they did when I was there about a year ago). However, I know there are couple brands/models. Is there a consensus as to which is the best?

3. Buy a rifle kit. The best apparent value I can find is a Del-Ton kit here: http://www.del-ton.com/ar_15_kits_s/1.htm. However, I'm a bit confused as to what option to choose. I think I'd like a 16" barrel, but don't know the difference between the regular option and the one labeled "Mid-length." Assuming I choose the regular 16" rifle kit, I don't know what options to choose. I know I'd like a chrome-lined barrel, but not much else. I'm aiming for a basic no-frills starter AR, and have a pretty lean budget.

For the barrel, the only option is labeled 1x9. Does this refer to 1:9 twist rate?

For the handguard, the default option is "CAR Handguard with Heat Shields." Is this the standard AR-type handguard?

For the flash hider, an A2 Flash Hider is the default option. Does this create a conflict with California law, or does the bullet-button make this okay?

For gas block, the default is "F-Marked Front Sight Base." What does this mean? I'd like a plain-jane AR with a normal AR front sight. There's an option for "Standard A2 Front Sight Base."

For the Lower Parts and Charging Handle, I think I want the standard option for both. The charging handle has options for "PRI Gas Buster" and "Badger Tac Latch." Are either of these worth considering for a bare-bones AR?

For the upper, the default option is "Flat Top Upper with M4 Feed Ramps." There are also options for "A2 Upper" and "Flat Top Upper with T-Marks." I figure I'd like a flat top upper since I could buy one of those detachable carrying handles later. Does "A2 Upper" refer to an integrated carrying handle? What is meant by "T-Marks?"

4. My gun shop does gunsmithing, so I was thinking I'd ask them to assemble it. Is there a going rate that I should expect to pay?

Sorry for the long-winded list of questions. Particularly regarding the Del-Ton options. I'm just feeling pressured to move fast, and I did most of my research about a year ago and forgot much of what I learned. Any help and assistance is much appreciated!

[joelogic]

The lower is not a stress point. They make 50bmg uppers.
Dealers choice.
Once you buy one you cant stop.
Yes.
Yes. But free floats are popular.
BB makes you ok.

http://jobrelatedstuff.com/archive/topic.html?b=3&f=18&t=329435

No.
Yes. Engraved location marks.
Dunno. Why not just buy one off the shelf for your first AR?

[Norcal Industries]

delton is a bit slow on shipping at the best of times. expect at least a 2-5 month wait on your kit. yes, 1x9 indicates twist rate. yes, a car handguard is the standard handguard. a2 flash hider is fine if you use a bullet button. f marked is a forged version of the standard front sight, and yes, its a normal front sight. standard charging handle is fine. the gas buster is intended for supressed guns, so not needed in your case. a2 upper means it has the handle built in. if you wanna run optics later, derfinitely get a flat-top. t-marks are the marks on the rail portion of the upper. just a reference for remounting optics or other accessories. assembling yourself is an option. takes basic tools and youtube has plenty of videos on how to do it.

[Paul von Lettow-Vorbeck]

Thanks for the response and for explaining the lower's sturdiness. I was concerned because I saw some lowers that were labeled "Multi Cal." The reason I'd rather build than buy off the shelf is price. The cheapest off the shelf AR I'm aware of is the S&W M&P-15, and I expect that would run around $200+ more than the build I was think of using. Plus, I read that it had some differences from your normal ARs.

[Paul von Lettow-Vorbeck]

Thanks for your answers. I did watch a youtube video about assembling the lower receiver using the parts kit, but as long as the price isn't exorbitant (judging by the amount of effort that appears to be needed,I'd put ~$75 as my breaking point), I'd like to give my local gun shop business and eliminate any chance of me screwing things up and/or scraping the finish.

I was planning on getting a Primary Arms red dot, so thanks for clarifying the flat top and explaining the T-marks.

[Cheezle56]

1. A lower is a lower is a lower, buy from any reputable manuactuer or whaever is cheapest, the lower barely takes any stress which is why there .50BMG upers
2.Bullet Buttons are pretty much all the same, just get whatever is cheapest. Those with the screw on the inside for CA/out of state settings, just becareful you have it in the right position.
3.For 16" barrel get a "midlength" unless you're anal about sub .5"@100yd definitely go chrome lined
1x9 is the twist rate, optimal for 62 grain, good for bullets up to 75/77 grains
CAR handguards is your basic m16/m4 looking hanguards
For flash hider, a Bullet Button lets you have all the evil features you want except mags over 10 rounds
"F" marked. All front sights are forged, the "F" mark is to distinguish the the front sight as being slightly higher to be the correct height for Flattop recivers. "F" mark+A2 fixed carry handle=bad, "F" mark+A3/A4 Flattop=correct, No "F" mark+A3/A4 Flattop=bad, No "F" mark+A2 fixed carry handle=correct
A standard charging handel is fine, Gasbuster is for silencer use, taclatch are for the mall ninjas.
A2 is integrated carry handle, T marks are like T2, T3, T4, simply reference marks for accesory mounting, I reccomend a flattop since it later allows optics, Most all flattop uppers nowdays come with M4 feedraps standard,
and for putting the gun together, just go to ar15.com and they have a step by step page on putting everything together.

[Paul von Lettow-Vorbeck]

Thanks for the response! Sounds like the T-marks would be good to have, especially if the M4 feed ramp is included in both options.

[wash]

If you are looking for quality parts and have a little patience, I suggest looking at PSA kits with the hammer forged barrel, 16" mid-length is a good place to start for a basic handy AR.

Don't be afraid to build, the roll pins are what screw people up and cause scratches. If you know how to do it, it is easy to avoid scratches and without tape or very special tools (I use a slightly uncommon tool but easy enough to find, T25 Security Torx bit). If you are still nervous, find someone on Calguns near you who can look over your shoulder while you are assembling.

[Paul von Lettow-Vorbeck]

Thanks. Looking through other threads I went to the PSA website, but it looks like they're all out of stock so it's hard to guess what the price is.

[Paul von Lettow-Vorbeck]

Well, I went ahead and bought the lower today. The only option they had in stock was a lower for an S&W M&P. I ended up paying $155 before taxes and DROS. That seemed pretty steep, given that a complete M&P-15 Sport has an MSRP of $739, but I guess I've already paid. Plus, I figure that the cost of living around here and the need to make a profit probably demands a premium. Hopefully, I didn't get fleeced...

Anyways, since Del-Ton's out of stock too, I figure I'd be best to go the PSA route as Wash suggested. Reading up some more, plus given what the guy in the gun shop told me, it sounds like a 1:7 twist is better. I probably should call to find out what the price will be when they have them in stock. I also noticed PSA sells bullet buttons too (for $19.99 vs. the $30 that my gun shop charges).

Thanks everyone for your help and advice!

[wash]

I think you got taken on that lower.

But that's what gun shops do.

For a budget gun, I think any twist 1 in 9" or faster is fine, that will shoot 62 grain green tip very well and I think it will work with 69 grain match kings. Faster twists will work on the 75-77 grain bullets that are usually loaded in expensive match ammo, not the cheap stuff that I usually shoot in a budget gun.

[Paul von Lettow-Vorbeck]

Ah, bummer... Now that I'm home, I did a look up of what they're going for online (I was surprised to see that there's more that one type of M&P receiver) and CheaperThanDirt had them in the ~$130 range. I was feeling okay...

The PSA offerings only seem to come with the 1 in 7" twist. Should I go with the Del-Ton? Given that Del-Ton takes 2-5 months to deliver, I thought the PSA should be faster (given both companies replenish their stocks at the same time) whenever they get their kits back in stock. The PSA website says to allow 15 business days for delivery (more for holiday and special lead times). Del-Ton does seem to lead in the customer service department, though--given the reviews I've read.

[valley82]

Riflegear.com

[GMG]

Had you bought the lower from Cheaper Than Dirt, you would have had to pay for shipping and the receiving FFL a fee for receiving the lower in addition to Dros and Tax. So you probably didn't really get fleeced.

[GMG]

Had you bought the lower from Cheaper Than Dirt, you would have had to pay for shipping and the receiving FFL a fee for receiving the lower in addition to Dros and Tax. So you probably didn't really get fleeced.

The "multi cal" gives a person the option of changing the uppers and shooting different calibers.