Please Help Me With Some Market Research RE: Custom Bolt Knobs

[RECCE556]

What about B but:
1) without the grooves
2) a slightly steeper angle on rifle side (which would increase the "cylinder" area)
3) solid end

[postal]

They all look pretty cool.... but it looks like E is very long...

A long knob in alu is not something I would ever consider (any alu knob really)... Know too many people that broke bolt knobs off during speed drills in competitions.

That would really suck to drop out of a comp because the bolt knob busted off....

I really dont think that a larger knob needs any kind of grip or texture. Most people that shoot in comps start learning really quick to rack the bolt by using a "hand salute" method....

Trigger hand pops a salute with the palm coming towards your right eye- this gives you the "up, and rear drive of the bolt-" Then turn your hand palm down, and "slap the bolt forward and down- Both of these directions, occur in one motion each way.... **NOT** up, back, forward, down.... 2 motions each way. You tend to catch the bolt knob in your palm- racking the bolt back, it catches your palm right near the center depression, and rolls up your hand toward the base of your pinky.. the forward part starts near the web of your thumb/index, and the knob rolls up the base of the index finger.

No "grip" is required or desired.

[Kerplow]

What about B but:
1) without the grooves
2) a slightly steeper angle on rifle side (which would increase the "cylinder" area)
3) solid end

There's no reason why not. The only issue with a steeper angle is it brings the main bulk of the knob closer to the rifle stock and closer to the scope. As long as your hand clears these obstacles I don't see why not.

Thanks for your input!

They all look pretty cool.... but it looks like E is very long...

A long knob in alu is not something I would ever consider (any alu knob really)... Know too many people that broke bolt knobs off during speed drills in competitions.

That would really suck to drop out of a comp because the bolt knob busted off....

I really dont think that a larger knob needs any kind of grip or texture. Most people that shoot in comps start learning really quick to rack the bolt by using a "hand salute" method....

Trigger hand pops a salute with the palm coming towards your right eye- this gives you the "up, and rear drive of the bolt-" Then turn your hand palm down, and "slap the bolt forward and down- Both of these directions, occur in one motion each way.... **NOT** up, back, forward, down.... 2 motions each way. You tend to catch the bolt knob in your palm- racking the bolt back, it catches your palm right near the center depression, and rolls up your hand toward the base of your pinky.. the forward part starts near the web of your thumb/index, and the knob rolls up the base of the index finger.

No "grip" is required or desired.

Are suggesting that the knob itself would break, or the bolt handle? I'm of the opinion that the bolt handle itself is much more likely to break than any knob, be it stainless or aluminium.

Like this:




Now, if you're saying that the likelyhood of breaking your handle is increased due to the added leverage of a longer knob, I would tend to agree.

Thanks for your input!

[chuckshoots]

anodized A.

[RECCE556]

What about B but:
1) without the grooves
2) a slightly steeper angle on rifle side (which would increase the "cylinder" area)
3) solid end

There's no reason why not. The only issue with a steeper angle is it brings the main bulk of the knob closer to the rifle stock and closer to the scope. As long as your hand clears these obstacles I don't see why not.

What if you reduced the diameter of the body?

[Kerplow]

What if you reduced the diameter of the body?

I'm working on that, standby for pics.

[chuckshoots]

Probably E but they all look to large in diameter for me.

.....thats what she said....

[nimoZ]

This is what works for me:





Hey - they look similar?