Any reccomendations for a stripped OLL to start an AR build with? There's a crazy amount of manufacturer's out there and I'm not sure what to look for or avoid.
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Start AR-15 build. Stripped lower?
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What's your budget? For the most part, they're all the same minus the roll marks. I suggest checking with your local gun store to see what they have in stock. Keep in mind that buying online won't always be cheaper since you'd have to pay out of state transfer fees and possibly tax, which can add up quickly. -
Yup, try to buy it locally, unless you're buying several, its not worth buying it online unless you its like 30 bucks.
Forged lowers from JD, Mega and Spikes are very common and are usually about $100.
If you want to pay more there are also "billet" lowers or the so called "top tier" manufacturers like, Noveske, Colt, etc. also sell forged lowers.Last edited by Mr. Meeseeks; 05-23-2012, 11:26 AM.Comment
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Yes, buy locally. Walk into LGS and see what's there ask what out the door price is. If between $120 - $175 it's the easiest.
As far as kind of lower there's forged and billet. Really not a big difference that will affect anything including strength of receiver or build it's just that forged is more common and traditional. Billet is CNC'd out of block of aluminum and forged is formed by casting and forging into final shape before being machined.
Next, I'd ask what's important to you as far as brand or how the lower will be engraved or marked with logos and icons and type for manufacturer, serial #, etc. Do you really want zombies, spiders, bears, or what? Sometimes simple is best, just the basic lower with required roll marks/engravings.
Of all the manufacturers it really boils down to the main producers and then other companies put their identifying logos and markings on them. See this link:
Firearm Discussion and Resources from AR-15, AK-47, Handguns and more! Buy, Sell, and Trade your Firearms and Gear.
The lower is your starting point. Get one that satifies your wallet then your aesthetics.
You generally run out of time before you run out of ammo.
sigpic
Former NRA Member
CGF MemberComment
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For the most part, they are pretty much the same unless you get a billet-type or Noveske on the upper end and avoid Hesse/Vulcan on the lower end."When you get the (men) to the range, you just get the men. But when you bring the (women) to the range, you get the (whole family). And that's what's going to save our 2nd Amendment."--Dianna Liedorff
"Since self-preservation is the 1st law of nature, we assert the...right to self-defense. The Constitution...clearly affirms the right of every American...to bear arms. And as Americans, we will not give up a single right guaranteed under the Constitution." --Malcolm XComment
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What's your budget? For the most part, they're all the same minus the roll marks. I suggest checking with your local gun store to see what they have in stock. Keep in mind that buying online won't always be cheaper since you'd have to pay out of state transfer fees and possibly tax, which can add up quickly.
So budget wise, as economical as possible. Not looking for premium quality, but I don't want to throw money away on a piece of junk that's going to blow up in my face.Comment
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Yes, buy locally. Walk into LGS and see what's there ask what out the door price is. If between $120 - $175 it's the easiest.
As far as kind of lower there's forged and billet. Really not a big difference that will affect anything including strength of receiver or build it's just that forged is more common and traditional. Billet is CNC'd out of block of aluminum and forged is formed by casting and forging into final shape before being machined.
Next, I'd ask what's important to you as far as brand or how the lower will be engraved or marked with logos and icons and type for manufacturer, serial #, etc. Do you really want zombies, spiders, bears, or what? Sometimes simple is best, just the basic lower with required roll marks/engravings.
Of all the manufacturers it really boils down to the main producers and then other companies put their identifying logos and markings on them. See this link:
Firearm Discussion and Resources from AR-15, AK-47, Handguns and more! Buy, Sell, and Trade your Firearms and Gear.
The lower is your starting point. Get one that satifies your wallet then your aesthetics.Comment
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An internet lower for $60-$99 before adding shipping, tax, and transfer fees will add up to the same, more or less, than finding a basic forged lower from one of the main manufacturers listed in my link somewhere locally. It will take time and trouble to order and ship and transfer than doing the paperwork at your LGS.
Your lower, if one of the basic ones (LMT, CMT, LAR, MMS) is a proven item and will be like almost all AR lowers.
The material is always aluminum, the quality varies little among the major producers, there is a bit of difference between billet and forged and sometimes the alloy is a bit different.
Keep looking.
You generally run out of time before you run out of ammo.
sigpic
Former NRA Member
CGF MemberComment
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You get to assemble lower parts and then add complete upper. Everything matches finish-wise. Plus when you order parts kit and upper you'll have some options on furniture, sights, barrel length and misc.
For example, my out the door price on a stripped lower through LGS was $159.
You generally run out of time before you run out of ammo.
sigpic
Former NRA Member
CGF MemberComment
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My spikes lower was 149$ before dros in the bay area.
4-500 is most likely a complete lower, even noveske are like 220.00.
Did they have stocks, triggers etc? Or was it just a chunk of metal?-Ruger SR22
-Glock 17
-Ruger 10/22
-Spikes RRA, Magpul, Delton,Troy, BCM AR-15Comment
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Using gun control to stop crime is like trying to put out a fire with gasoline!
You don't have to get permission to exercise a RIGHT. If you have to get permission or can be told no by the government it is no longer a right. IT IS A PRIVILEGE!
AR-15 ASSEMBLY CHECK LIST FOR BUILDERSComment
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