New to precision shooting-help

[Pthfndr]

I tend to disagree with this idea. Why waste ammo? I zero my scope at 1000 yds in two shots and then a third for confirmation...................................... ..............................

Fire a third shot just to confirm that your in the "X" ring.

First off, the guy said he's new to using optics. He did not claim to be a FSCA world record holder

Secondly, there's a HUGE difference between "zeroing in" a new scope on a rifle and taking an existing rifle/scope combo that's already zeroed and getting it into the X ring at a given distance. The latter can be done. Did it yesterday and did it again today in a 1000 yard match down here at the Sac Valley range.

Are you really saying you can take a scope that never been mounted to a rifles, install it, go out to 1000 yards, and in 3 shots have a confirmed 1000 yard zero?

[rksimple]

No, I mean ONE THOUSAND YARDS! You are free to come play with us at an FCSA match 8-17 through 8-19 outside of Reno.

Thats amazing. If I had a 50, I would, but you guys would kill me with my lowly 308. But I agree with pthfndr, not really sound advice for a noob to precision riflery. For you 50 guys, thats just flat awesome. I'll be limited to the 510 now, but will you still let me play?

[CSACANNONEER]

Are you really saying you can take a scope that never been mounted to a rifles, install it, go out to 1000 yards, and in 3 shots have a confirmed 1000 yard zero?

Yep! I knew nothing about how to do this a few years ago (and I'm still a beginner) nut, I showed up for my first match and the match director told me how to do this. I did it and it worked. It works for any gun at any distance. It's as simple as that.

[aplinker]

Last few times I've "zeroed" a scope I just shot at the longest range steel I could and adjusted from the dust plumes. I figured sectioning a 600yd gong and shooting to hit just inside and seeing the miss just above/below/side the edges meant I was pretty much on target. I dunno why zeroing is so difficult unless things are loose or not set up properly.

How do you see holes bullet holes at 1000 yds, or do you walk out for each?

[rg_1111@yahoo.com]

If your shot's were all over the place. Its not the wind at 100 yards.
Tighten scope mounts, Or rings.

[Pthfndr]

It works for any gun at any distance. It's as simple as that.

I've got a .22 and $10,000 in the bank that says you can't get it "zeroed" at 1000 yards in 3 shots.

[5968]

I tend to disagree with this idea. Why waste ammo? I zero my scope at 1000 yds in two shots and then a third for confirmation. There is no reason to waste time and ammo by working out to longer ranges. Just set your zero to the range that you will be shooting at. First, mount your scope. Next, set up your rifle in a very steady rest (or pair of rests) and pull your bolt out. Look down the bore and adjust the rifle so that it is sighted at the target. Then, without moving the rifle, adjust the scope so that it is aiming at the target. Put the aproximate amount of adjustment, that you think you need, for your given load and distance (For me it is about 28MOA @1000 yards). Now, aim and fire your first shot paying attention to your point of impact. Bring your rifle back into battery and aim at the exact same point on the target. Now, without moving your rifle, "walk" the cross hairs over to your point of impact. Really, your done in one shot but, go ahead and take another shot and do the exact same thing. Fire a third shot just to confirm that your in the "X" ring.

From reading his post, it didn't sound like he knew how to bore sight a rifle. I didn't have time to explain it, but I'm glad to see that you did. Furthermore, if he is just starting out, (which I get the feeling he is) I tend to think a 1000 yards might be wasting his ammo. Just my $.02

[CSACANNONEER]

I've got a .22 and $10,000 in the bank that says you can't get it "zeroed" at 1000 yards in 3 shots.

OK, are you trying to make a point. I guess that I should have clarified my statement a little and said something like: This will work on any gun at any range provided that the gun in question is capable of shooting both percisely and accurately at the chosen distance.

On the other hand, this will work on a .22lr rifle at 1000 yards as long as you have a properly tapered scope base and you are willing to accept the fact that a .22lr isn't that accurate or percise at that distance. But, as long as you can accept the limitations of a .22lr at that distance, it will work within reason. So, since you made the offer, I should take you up on it. I get to pick the target. It will be the hillside of my choice at 1000 yards. I'm willing to put up $10,000 saying that I can hit the target 10 out of 10 times after I zero it in.

I guess you should have said that you have a paintball gun or a .25acp with a 1" barrel.

[CSACANNONEER]

From reading his post, it didn't sound like he knew how to bore sight a rifle. I didn't have time to explain it, but I'm glad to see that you did. Furthermore, if he is just starting out, (which I get the feeling he is) I tend to think a 1000 yards might be wasting his ammo. Just my $.02

The 1000 yards is just what I do. I have also used this technique as close as 50'.

[xingyun_88]

My set up is a LRT in .223 mostly 55grain UMC and 52grain PMC silver. Scope is a 3-9x40 bushnell banner. As soon as i get the basics down I would like to upgrade the optics. I was shooting off a bipod with a sand bag in the rear. I live in Hayward and have shot at the Davis street range and the livermore range where i ran into the winds around 7-10 mph, but it was very inconsistant. My shots were not "all over". After i got a rough zero. But i would like to adjust to the wind before i take a shot to ensure my first shot in where i want it.

[Pthfndr]

OK, are you trying to make a point.

Yes, I was making a point. What you are talking about is NOT generally what's considered zeroing in a rifle/scope combo. The exception might be 50 cal shooters who shoot in the 1000 yard to 2 mile matches, where their starting point is 1000 yards. A zero is a consistent, repeatable starting point. That's why there is the term "no wind zero".


A hillside? LOL, that's good. Hitting an enormously large object is not being zeroed. But I see your point.

[Pthfndr]

My set up is a LRT in .223 mostly 55grain UMC and 52grain PMC silver. Scope is a 3-9x40 bushnell banner. As soon as i get the basics down I would like to upgrade the optics. I was shooting off a bipod with a sand bag in the rear. I live in Hayward and have shot at the Davis street range and the livermore range where i ran into the winds around 7-10 mph, but it was very inconsistant. My shots were not "all over". After i got a rough zero. But i would like to adjust to the wind before i take a shot to ensure my first shot in where i want it.

Once you have a solid "no wind" zero, you need to a) know how much the particular bullet you are shooting will move in a given amount of wind. To do that you need to know the muzzle velocity, bullet BC, etc and run it through a ballistic program, and b) you need to learn how to figure out how much wind there is - the wind speed and value - before you take the shot.

[CSACANNONEER]

My set up is a LRT in .223 mostly 55grain UMC and 52grain PMC silver. Scope is a 3-9x40 bushnell banner. As soon as i get the basics down I would like to upgrade the optics. I was shooting off a bipod with a sand bag in the rear. I live in Hayward and have shot at the Davis street range and the livermore range where i ran into the winds around 7-10 mph, but it was very inconsistant. My shots were not "all over". After i got a rough zero. But i would like to adjust to the wind before i take a shot to ensure my first shot in where i want it.

Adjusting for wind can be very complex. I'm just starting to learn how to read mirage. From everything that I've learned so far, I can safely say that experience (ie. trigger time) is the primary factor in learning how to read the wind. so, keep practicing.

[C.G.]

Tighten scope mounts, Or rings.

+1. And as said before, try shooting at 50 yards first to get the scope dialed in before you move to 100.

[xingyun_88]

Is there a "standard" method to find wind value or do you just use a tool to measure the wind speed? Thanks alot guys.