Lower Assembly issues

[Iggy]

I recently purchased a lower from a member here and I as assembling the grip/safety/trigger and I ran into a HUGE problem. First of all the LPK is a new Bushmaster that was included as part of the deal and I purchased the hammerhead grip that is going on the lower.

Safety selector goes in and I install the grip and I notice that the screw is a little tight, but nothing out of the ordinary. My last lower was similar with a tight fitting grip screw and I had no issues.

Next I went to install the trigger and it appeared to be that the lower half was too long. It would hit the safety selector and be off by 3/8" from the pin hole. I thought maybe I had assembled the safety wrong or the trigger was wrong so I was going to remove the safety to install the trigger alone to see if it worked.

The grip bolt gave a couple easy turns and then it was a PITA to get out and eventually just stopped. It is impossible to tighten or loosen and I stripped all my allen's.

So what do I do now? I was thinking of calling Noveske to see if they will fix it.

[dieselpower]

So you cross-threaded the pistol grip threads on the lower and installed a screw that was too long...yeah call them to see if they will fix it.... If not contact a machine shop and see what they say. You can always alter the grip screw size. It just will be different from all other AR lowers.

[supersonic]

Sometimes, since the anodizing is applied after all the threading is done, the actual hard coat is thicker than spec (it just happens once in a while, probably on Mondays). When you get one of these lowers, the trick is to chase the threads with the proper tap before assembling the PG & it's related parts. And the way to tell if you have one of these 'over-anodized' lowers is if the PG bolt starts in the hole with any real effort at all. So, next time you'll know what to do. If Noveske won't help you out, give JD Machine in CA a call (they manufacture Noveske's lowers). I've heard of a few bad CS experiences with Noveske, but everything that has come in as reports about JD's support is very impressive. They may send their lowers out to be anodized somewhere else, but I'm sure they will bend over backwards to help you.

[Iggy]

I can tell you for sure it was not cross threaded. I always have the screw engage several threads by hand before I used a tool. The screw was the one that was supplied with the hammerhead and it was actually shorter than the Bushmaster one.

Thanks for the tip on JD will figure out what's going on.

[Nobama4us]

The screw galled, it happens. I would drill the head off the screw remove the grip. Then heat the lower with a torch (not too hot, just enough to expand the metal a little). Use vise grips to grab the screw, lots of penatrating oil and work it out slow. If that does not work.................. drill the screw out, and heli coil it so it remains the same thread/pitch. If you ever get up to the Sacramento area I'd be happy to try and help fix the issue.

[supersonic]

I can tell you for sure it was not cross threaded. I always have the screw engage several threads by hand before I used a tool. The screw was the one that was supplied with the hammerhead and it was actually shorter than the Bushmaster one.

Thanks for the tip on JD will figure out what's going on.

No problem. Yeah, I was going to say that that thing ain't cross-threaded. You'd know it (bolt crooked, grinding, aluminum particles at one end, etc.). The mere fact that you (correctly) started the threading by hand as a "test-fit" says it all. What you have is a frozen (or "seized") bolt. And I would wager that the anodizing gradually becomes thicker as you go up into the hole, hence the perfect 'start,' then the threading of the bolt slows down exponentially as you go up each thread. Once you have that going on, it is only a matter of tightening it a few more threads (and ruining tools & the bolt head) before you have a seize. Good luck to you, I am sure either Noveske or JD will take care of you. On the (FAR) off chance that they don't, the heating/Heli-coil method may be your only choice besides tossing that lower & buying a new one.

[SarahKC1987]

A nightmare im SO glad I didnt run into. Good luck.

[Don29palms]

It's a learning experience. I always test fit pins and screws first.

[Iggy]

Yeah true. I just figured it was ok since it was a Noveske. I don't know, but this one is not a seconds but something doesn't feel right about it. My previous seconds lower looked like it was finished better.

[Exile Machine]

Dang that sucks, I hate it when that happens. I keep a 1/4-28 tap on hand to clean up those anodized receiver threads if they feel like the fit is going to be tight. I can't help with your receiver (not an FFL yet) but PM me with your order number or full name and I'll mail you a new grip bolt & washer.

-Mark

[Iggy]

Mark, I really appreciate it, but no need. It's going out to Noveske tomorrow and I have an extra bolt. Thanks!

[steve92407]

i also have seen this before the ano is very hard and will flake and push the threads.although it sheard the threads just up it with a 5/16 24 tap and screw. no harm no foul 15 minute fix tops.

[VytamenC Tactical]

heating the lower is extreme in my opinion. cut the grip off ( they only cost $5.00 on cal guns) you need to better expose the head of the screw. once exposed soak it down with some penetration oil then grab the head of the screw with a pair of channel locks work the screw back and forth till it can be removed sometimes you will need to tighten it a few turns to get it to loosen up if the threads are galled. if the threads are damaged you can actually repair them with a thread repair kit (helicoil) remember try to retap the threads before you helicoil them. remember lower receiver novesky($ 345.00) grip $5.00 be careful

[Iggy]

I would like to avoid cutting the grip, but Noveske offered and I don't have an upper yet, so no worries.

[SERIAL SNIPER]

cut the grip there cheap if the lower gets damaged your out 200. if noveske says they will do it for free let them do it