Why by an expensive stripped lower? Are there any advantages?

[NavDoc]

Correct, I just gotta have one that matches my FDE dyed poodle.

FDE is the "new black."

[PIRATE14]

LMT, CMT & LAR are the big 3 machine shops that machine upper and lower receivers from forgings.
Those companies mark them for hundreds of other companies who also have manufacturer's licenses.
Anyone with a manufacturers FFL can call the big 3 and they will make lowers for you with your name on them as long as you meet their volume requirements.

CMT's "house" brand is Stag so you won't see CMT branded lowers out there.
LMT and LAR sell under their own names though.

I have a CMT branded LOWER.....only one I have seen though....not as pricey as a MAGPUL....

Only advantage is possible $$$ if you intend to sell it at a later date.....

Most lowers made today are of pretty decent quality today....not like in the ol days...

If you can afford a higher priced name brand lower.....get it.....

[BigBamBoo]

............

[technique]

Some people just like to have the (perceived) best when they buy something.

I mean the $30-50 difference for a billet vs forged receiver is kinda moot (to me at least) when your talking about a $1000 to $1500.00 upper assembly, $250.00 trigger, $1000 + scope,etc. If your into your build for that much why would you finish it off with a "cheap" lower?

Take care,Stan

Did you forget what site you logged into?
Most people don't buy $1500+ uppers or pay for quality optics...
Nothing about the above are "cheap, deal, bargain, budget, or discount"...right? Right?

I mean...dude, that $30-$50 could buy me a clone optic!!!!

[BigBamBoo]

.............

[xibunkrlilkidsx]

collection. i could of got the generic Kaiser Defense lower, but i paid extra, to get a cal guns lower.

[shadow-ote]

I just got, well actually my local FFL did, my two SI Defense lowers. I went to do the DROS and got to take a good look at my two new friends...

At $50 each, I would buy these all day long!!

[unkownindividual]

It seems that a lot of the really important differences have actually been skipped in this thread regarding the way many even same price point lowers differ. IMHO a forged lower is just as good as a billet machined lower, the forging is machined in the same equipment that the billet ones are the only difference is that one was a forging with much less excess material and the other started off as a nice square block of aluminum, the forging has an advantage (commonly not always, many billet are heat treat) in that it has been heat treated. In the end they are all supposed to be within the same spec (except Colt) but it amazing how many are not, I own seven different AR lowers and it boggles me when my $99 spikes special has better pin fit and machining than a ****** that cost $189 and both being forgings. I have a POF gen III NP3 finish lower that cost $380 and i am about to buy a Quentin for 150 that is probably just as good in every regard (from the Quentins i have examined). Some for caliber are marked Multi and some are specific cal (ie .223, 6.5 ), that may cause a prob if you are switching from centerfire to rimfire and a ignorant LEO stops you. etc.. Now those are just cursory visual differences, but the important differences are the ones you cant see, i.e. all my lowers are 7075-T6 or better aluminum, many even well known and upper crust mfgs use 6061 that is cheaper and weaker. Some broach instead of wire EDM cut magwells and that is not an issue if quality control is very good but if somebody aint paying attention you might get a lower that mags fit in very tight and won't drop free from. finish is another important thing, many are black but do you know the real finish of your lower? is it annodized? does it have a baked on teflon finish? or is it just spray painted black? when you inspect your lower has the whole lower been finished or is bare metal visible in the pistol grip threads...just lots of minor things that can be the diff between a good and a crappy lower for the same price, my spikes lowers despite the price have always been excellent i can say the same for YHM and CMMG both small operations (comparatively) that produce their own lowers. People often don't fully realize that the lower reciever is the only part of their gun that is actually considered a gun, that is the reason you should buy the best you can, you can't swap lowers around like an upper, there is a dros, transfers, ten day waits, etc.. you buy a lower for life, it is the soul of the gun, everything else is just a part. In my builds wich usually take months due to spreading out the cost i never regret buying a top quality item for a little more but i always regret buying crappy stuff that i'll wind up replacing later, can't do that with a lower, might as well buy another one and do a second build. just my 2 cents...

[bombadillo]

all you said was pretty much true, but its still easier to buy a $170 mega billet upper than a 1500 smacker JP upper comparatively so using it as the "soul" of the gun isn't my priority. I've never worn out an upper and doubt I will. I will also buy other lowers eventually for whatever the future brings.

[Joe788]

It seems that a lot of the really important differences have actually been skipped in this thread regarding the way many even same price point lowers differ. IMHO a forged lower is just as good as a billet machined lower, the forging is machined in the same equipment that the billet ones are the only difference is that one was a forging with much less excess material and the other started off as a nice square block of aluminum, the forging has an advantage (commonly not always, many billet are heat treat) in that it has been heat treated. In the end they are all supposed to be within the same spec (except Colt) but it amazing how many are not, I own seven different AR lowers and it boggles me when my $99 spikes special has better pin fit and machining than a ****** that cost $189 and both being forgings. I have a POF gen III NP3 finish lower that cost $380 and i am about to buy a Quentin for 150 that is probably just as good in every regard (from the Quentins i have examined). Some for caliber are marked Multi and some are specific cal (ie .223, 6.5 ), that may cause a prob if you are switching from centerfire to rimfire and a ignorant LEO stops you. etc.. Now those are just cursory visual differences, but the important differences are the ones you cant see, i.e. all my lowers are 7075-T6 or better aluminum, many even well known and upper crust mfgs use 6061 that is cheaper and weaker. Some broach instead of wire EDM cut magwells and that is not an issue if quality control is very good but if somebody aint paying attention you might get a lower that mags fit in very tight and won't drop free from. finish is another important thing, many are black but do you know the real finish of your lower? is it annodized? does it have a baked on teflon finish? or is it just spray painted black? when you inspect your lower has the whole lower been finished or is bare metal visible in the pistol grip threads...just lots of minor things that can be the diff between a good and a crappy lower for the same price, my spikes lowers despite the price have always been excellent i can say the same for YHM and CMMG both small operations (comparatively) that produce their own lowers. People often don't fully realize that the lower reciever is the only part of their gun that is actually considered a gun, that is the reason you should buy the best you can, you can't swap lowers around like an upper, there is a dros, transfers, ten day waits, etc.. you buy a lower for life, it is the soul of the gun, everything else is just a part. In my builds wich usually take months due to spreading out the cost i never regret buying a top quality item for a little more but i always regret buying crappy stuff that i'll wind up replacing later, can't do that with a lower, might as well buy another one and do a second build. just my 2 cents...

Oh how I love the internets.

[unkownindividual]

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[Ravenslair]

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I think they are saying you should have broken that long paragraph into smaller and easier to read paragraphs with proper capitalization and punctuation where required. Just a guess though.

[BigAL]

FWIW I have bought a bad stripped lower. It was a RRA lower. The pocket inside the lower where the takedown pin rides was not milled wide enough. So you COULD NOT put an upper on the lower - the takedown pin block on the upper would not fit in the pocket on the lower. Thought it had to be a one in a million defect but it turned out an entire batch went out the door that way (buddy bought a RRA that was -1 from my serial number with the same problem). I sent it back to RRA expecting a replacement. Instead they just milled the pocket a bit wider, painted the bare metal (looked like a Sharpie) and sent it back. I was pissed...but I digress. I agree for the most part a forged lower is a forged lower - buy what makes you happy.

[IrishPirate]

you get to tell people you spent more money on your rifle than they did...? i see no upside other than getting the logo you want.

[Joe788]

I think they are saying you should have broken that long paragraph into smaller and easier to read paragraphs with proper capitalization and punctuation where required. Just a guess though.

Nah, I'm not the grammar police or anything. My comment was regarding the content of the post.